The Art of Casting : Which Brands Are The Best/Worst At It

[Vitamine W]

Great thread initiative guys! Karma!

^@Jacquelineo; I think that's a pretty great number actually. Kati is undeniably successful, Marte turned into a fixture, Frida has quite fans in print and the others havent exactly disappeared into obscurity either, did they? There can be many reasons for the latter category though; personal energy, work ethic, background and culture and of course talent. A casting director cannot get a fair grasp on all of these aspects initially.


Like I said earlier Alexander Wang is also getting the hang of it; Mirte, Aymeline, Maria Bradley and I think also now Irina Kravchenko have been Wang openers.
Not all my cup of tea but still quite distinctive and successful choices. Only Britt Maren was an odd one out for me...

 

[HeatherAnne]

Like I said earlier Alexander Wang is also getting the hang of it; Mirte,

Céline is too.

Marine Deleeuw, Marie Piovesan, Joséphine Le Tutour, Josephine van Delden... not too shabby.

 

[Vitamine W]

Céline is too.

Marine Deleeuw, Marie Piovesan, Joséphine Le Tutour, Josephine van Delden... not too shabby.

^So true, Céline slipped my mind but theyre doing many things right as well. Common denominator; all mentioned brands are opinion- and design leading.

 

[Kallu]

^^^^ Kati, Romee and Antonia were not Prada exclusives. Nadine was semi, since she walked Dolce, Marni, Missoni & Versus after Prada.
And Frida was a direct booking, Versace wanted her too but she back to her home right after Prada show because of school.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[MulletProof]

I'm not model obsessed but being fashion obsessed for many years now I think the power of Prada isn't really names or specific faces but being influential enough as to get away with introducing and establishing aesthetics, in modeling, fashion, etc. Naturally names/faces are bound to come along, reason why the biggest names have all passed through Prada. This expectation that any girl cast in Prada has to be a success and if it isn't then Prada's castings aren't all that is making up Prada to be some kind of modeling agency.. when, even though I'm not really a fan of Miuccia, I think she's consistent on design being the primary focus of the brand.

Anyway, as unpopular as it may be, for me the best casting is right at Ann Demeulemeester. It's always consistent, it doesn't succumb to trends (like Prada), it respects modeling as a career (reason why models continue to appear and are not discarded like trash the next season) and is generally more experimental with beauty standards.

In a lesser scale, Dries Van Noten and Lanvin also combine longevity and new quite well.

Balmain's castings are always the worst for me, it's a never-ending parade of the overexposed, the one-dimensional, bland overpaid girls and the 3-4 potential newbies with enough support to build that Balmain-meets-Vogue Paris career.

I also detest the restricted vision of how the Calvin Klein women should look, as exemplified in their shows.

 

[penny609]

ummmm. they take the risk! they start the girls, gucci doesn't. its easy to book pros. its not innovative. mark/muccia.nicolas/riccardo take the risk. the others just takes what sticks.

What risks are you talking about? I don't see where are the risks when most agencies are following what they say or do like sheep would. Especially when you say Marc Jacobs takes risks, I've got big troubles to follow you... He basically takes a whole bunch of unpaid newbies. I agree there is a certain aesthetic statement in his casts but I don't think he is striving for recognition as "model maker". Same for Prada (even if Prada's cast is obviously done on another purpose), they take zero risks doing what they do. Agencies just send them and don't even complain when the girls got dropped five minutes before the show.

Then, I disagree when you say others just takes what sticks. I don't think JPG or, as MulletProof said, Ann Demeulemeester just to give two examples among others, take easy and conventional choices. This kind of casting is much more interesting to me. They are clearly about the designer's aesthetic and not just about getting attention for appearing as a pioneer or whatsoever.

 

[penny609]

somehow I cant understand why people claim that Prada castings have no impact. Statistics alone prove otherwise. This is about fashion, about opinion leading. It doesnt matter if we think some faces are bland, since it's Prada it's the leading opinion, period.

I've never said it has no impact, at all. I've just said its impact has to be considered differently. And as for statistics... I don't completely agree. Count also the successful ones that didn't take that route and the ones that were exclusives at Prada, CK, Jil Sander and others and never did anything after. Also in the statistics, we don't have all the girls who were "in option" and never got a chance while they would have if they had a "normal" fashion week. Agencies are a bit guilty for this...

On another hand, I wholeheartedly agree with you regarding Givenchy. If the buzz surrounding Prada is already way too much for me, Givenchy's exclusive gig is simply overrated and pointless.

 

[fashunviktim]

What risks are you talking about? I don't see where are the risks when most agencies are following what they say or do like sheep would. Especially when you say Marc Jacobs takes risks, I've got big troubles to follow you... He basically takes a whole bunch of unpaid newbies. I agree there is a certain aesthetic statement in his casts but I don't think he is striving for recognition as "model maker". Same for Prada (even if Prada's cast is obviously done on another purpose), they take zero risks doing what they do. Agencies just send them and don't even complain when the girls got dropped five minutes before the show.

Then, I disagree when you say others just takes what sticks. I don't think JPG or, as MulletProof said, Ann Demeulemeester just to give two examples among others, take easy and conventional choices. This kind of casting is much more interesting to me. They are clearly about the designer's aesthetic and not just about getting attention for appearing as a pioneer or whatsoever.

i guess what i mean that the other shows are more predictable. its a formula and i don't find it particularly exciting. Ann demeulemester - you know what that show is going to look like - she will never stick a VS girl in the show to challenge the way you look at her clothes.

marc takes all the girls that no one else takes and i do think thats a risk and it also gives those girls a shot at walking in a big show, that they probably won't ever have. if everyone was using "the established" models, everyones show would be the same rotation of the same 40 girls. designers also want to set their shows apart from everyone else's. i get that - its a show!. Also, who said they want to be model makers? We all judge this from that perspective - that if the girl doesn't do well after their show, then are a "blip" or whatever you call it and the casting is bad. who said they all have to be stars and why is it a failure of casting if they don't become stars? maybe its just a moment the way fashion is a moment.

 

[CrisGalaxy]

For male models: Jil Sander, Prada, and Raf Simons
I suppose Dior Homme could also be in the list but I haven't really looked at their castings lately

 

[HeatherAnne]

For male models: Jil Sander, Prada, and Raf Simons
I suppose Dior Homme could also be in the list but I haven't really looked at their castings lately

Man, Dior Homme under Slimane, nobody had a cooler cast. I agree, I don't really follow it as closely. Their campaign guys are always well cast though, in my opinion.

 

[wannabemodelbook]

I just read that Julia Lange was behind the major Zac Posen casting. What a great job for casting your first big fashion show.

 

[valliaddict]

Not every exclusive will be a star, but isn't that to be expected? You can't come in thinking that all 5 or 6 exclusives are gonna be supermodels. It's just not realistic. If we are gonna talk about the best at casting exclusives these days, I would say that Givenchy & Alexander Wang are the best atm. In recent years, Givenchy has launched the careers of Joan, Saskia, Katryn, Daphne, Stef, etc. There is always at least one girl each season who makes it big.

The best brand at casting in general- Gucci. They are fantastic at choosing the right girls (although I wish there were more girls of color). The show also gives every girl their moment to shine. That's why I will miss the Galliano days at Dior, especially couture. Their castings were always great, & each girl looked like a supermodel.

The worst at casting is Blumarine. All I have to say is- CBN opened the show this season, & Cara Delevigne was in their campaign last season. Nuff said.

 

[*Bianca*]

If we are gonna talk about the best at casting exclusives these days, I would say that Givenchy & Alexander Wang are the best atm. In recent years, Givenchy has launched the careers of Joan, Saskia, Katryn, Daphne, Stef, etc. There is always at least one girl each season who makes it big.

Miuccia had her hands on Daphne first.
She was going to be a Prada exclusive for F/W 10.11, but was dropped the morning of the show. She was then promptly booked for the Miu Miu campaign.

She walked for Versus, Giorgio Armani, Marras and some others before Givenchy booked her for the following cruise season.

 

[*Bianca*]

I think that the point of MyNameIs wasn't who can produce instant stardom with his runway show. Rather who really puts some effort into casting a coherent group of models, true to his brand's aesthetic vs. who only wants to make some unnecessary noise for the sake of getting a little bit of hype.

Fundamentally the art of casting.

Which is why I absolutely agree with everyone regarding Gucci.

 

[ParisFashionMuse]

givenchy mens cast shows are the worst

 

[*Bianca*]

Miuccia had her hands on Daphne first.
She was going to be a Prada exclusive for F/W 10.11, but was dropped the morning of the show. She was then promptly booked for the Miu Miu campaign.

And because it totally slipped my mind (so valliaddict i'm guessing yours too!), Miuccia also booked Katryn before Givenchy. Katryn debuted via Prada Resort 2012

 

[Luxx]

I'm surprised the discussion hasn't really brought up many casting directors, or stylists yet. They are often the driving forces behind who gets cast as far as shows are concerned- designers give input, have favorites and most certainly specify the type of girl they're looking for, but they've got collections to put together. There are some very talented casting directors out there who really shape the look of each brand.

Also, I don't think every show casting or "exclusive" is done with the intention of picking the next set of supermodels or what have you. Or should be judged on whether or not the exclusives go on to have big careers. If the exclusive girl (or guy) becomes something more then that is wonderful, but sometimes it isn't about that. Especially in this age of semi-exclusives. I think of it more as a sign the model exemplifies the brand's aesthetic sensibilities that season, to the point where they don't want her debuting anywhere else or appearing in too many other shows. Plus it is a way to link a face to the brand, especially if they're new.

Some shows are more important than others, but I don't think of any one show as being a guarantee of future success - especially with newer girls walking tons of shows but not necessarily getting picked for campaigns, top tier editorials, etc.

Interesting what people like and dislike though. Personally, I think the Givenchy men's casting is absolutely brilliant - always diverse, fresh and very distinctive. The combo of Daniel Peddle and Riccardo is absolutely phenomenal and some of the guys they've picked over the years are just incredible in my view.

But that's just me.

 

[penny609]

Also, I don't think every show casting or "exclusive" is done with the intention of picking the next set of supermodels or what have you. Or should be judged on whether or not the exclusives go on to have big careers. If the exclusive girl (or guy) becomes something more then that is wonderful, but sometimes it isn't about that. Especially in this age of semi-exclusives. I think of it more as a sign the model exemplifies the brand's aesthetic sensibilities that season, to the point where they don't want her debuting anywhere else or appearing in too many other shows. Plus it is a way to link a face to the brand, especially if they're new.

I do agree with the fact it's not done in order to pick (or even make) the next "top model". But the way agencies handle this issue leaves many people thinking it's going to be like that. Or, at least, accept this odd situation that hurts so many new models for almost nothing. I don't get the point in having exclusives just to link the models to the brand's aesthetic, it just feels like they aren't sure of their choices and need to have these girls for themselves alone or themselves first while it would look exactly the same if they had cast them normally. The age of semi-exclusives is a questionable era (at least to me) and makes the whole deal a little more pointless again.

I do actually like the concept and idea of exclusives when it's done the right way. When it's not systematic. Why this need to do this every season. Why to have ten girls or more while five is already way too much. Once in a while, when it's really obvious, is simply perfect. I mean, the combinations model/brand that truly works are the most awesome thing that can happen on a runway and totally justify an exclusive. Just as Sasha and Prada, that was magical. There are other examples and I'd dare to say Lara and CK fall into that category.

 

[penny609]

I also think it would be interesting to post this here. That's actually Faith Akiyama's words from the Model Casting SS2013 thread, I wanted to reply there but felt it was more appropriate to bring it here as there are certainly elements in her post that belongs to a general discussion on the Art of Casting topic. Very interesting point of view, I must say. Needless to say that I totally agree with her statement, even if I think agencies (and also mother agencies, somehow) should think deeper about the issue as whole and, instead of relentlessly competing against each other in a race that leads almost nowhere, should try to find a way to stop that current trend. I'm afraid that's (again) wishful thinking dripping straight from my idealist mind...

This season there appears to be the worst cast of "Casting Schizophrenia" than ever before. Marc, CK, Prada each with their own visions (Not a bad thing for the brand necessarily)...if Balenciaga and Givenchy continue the trend, then it's honestly somewhat worrisome for the modeling side of the industry as a whole. The clients already possess overwhelming power, as they have an oversaturated amount of models to choose from every season, and this kind of dilution only lessens the authority of the models/agencies, with long term careers potentially becoming more and more unlikely.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

I must say that I love the Givenchy's casting but I think they are loosing some ground in the last two/three seasons.

I was incredibly surprised with Jil Sander's casting. What a fresh and coherent casting!