The Business of Magazines

watching my seasonal favourite fashion tv moment ....
Signé Anna - you know, right ?
They talk about the war btw Vogue US and ELLE .... WOW ! Vogue is in crisis .... really !
Elle made better figures than Vogue US 3 months this year and got more ad pages than Vogue US for their J.LO issue .... 66 more ad pages than Vogue US.
it seemed Loïc Prigent was pretty excited about this .....
oh and Forbes put Roberta and Anna at the same second place as best editor of 2008 (Glamour US is # 1 ....)
but he said that whatever anyway Vogue US is still better .... !!!
 
To be fair to US Vogue, the main reason why it appears to be 'doing so badly' at the moment is because it benefited the most from the boom times. When news stories claim US Vogue is in crisis, they're using a mathematical illusion of sorts, twisting statistics to support their angle - when in reality, US Vogue's lost a lot of advertising because it had a lot more advertising than other magazines to begin with (and it seems, is still ahead of them, when all is counted).

Though to think that US Elle could outstrip US Vogue in many areas is quite a turnaround, it seems the revamp has done some good.
 
Source | NY Observer

No Shelter in a Storm! As Economy Quakes, Home Mags Teeter

The conventional wisdom is that shelter magazines are recession-proof. When people are getting laid off, they’re spending more time at home—and home might as well look nice!

But there’s something different about this downturn.

“You’ll see further fallout,” said Kate Kelly Smith, the publisher of House Beautiful. “There’s just not enough revenue out there to support all these [shelter] titles. We’ve already seen it, and we’ll continue to see it.”

Ms. Smith saw it firsthand at her parent company, Hearst, which on Friday, Nov. 7, folded O at Home, reassigning its editor, Sarah Gray Miller, to another struggling Hearst shelter title, Country Living.

There’s demolition dust everywhere. In August, Hachette closed Home; in September, Meredith Corporation cut the frequency of Country Home from 10 times a year to 8 times a year; last year, Condé Nast folded House & Garden and scaled back Vogue Living. The omnipotent-seeming Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia folded Blueprint. And three weeks ago, as part of a massive cost-cutting measure, Time Inc eliminated about 30 jobs from shelter books, including Cottage Living, Southern Living and Coastal Living.

“We’ll have none or very few regional magazines that are specific to the niche,” Ms. Smith predicted. “I think there will be fewer players.”

Even before the economy imploded, the raw numbers were bleak: Ad pages in Better Homes and Gardens have fallen 17 percent this year, according to Media Industry Newsletter; Country Home is down 22 percent; Dwell is down 11 percent; Country Living 10 percent.

Only a few pillars of the industry are still standing tall: Architectural Digest, the Vogue of shelters, has lost only 2 percent of its ad pages year to date; Elle Decor fell back only 1.85 percent. And Ms. Smith’s House Beautiful, no doubt benefiting from a field without House & Garden, has seen ad pages increase 8 percent year to date.

Conde Nast’s Domino has not gotten the same kick from the elimination of its sister publication. Ad pages are down only 2 percent, but speculation is swirling at 4 Times Square that the title, edited by Deborah Needleman, is due for a tumble. “Domino is having a horrible time,” said one Condé Nast insider. “If you look in their current issue, it’s not even all about shelter. It’s very intense with how much fashion editorial there is.”

Asked for comment, a Condé Nast spokeswoman conveyed a reassuring message from company CEO Chuck Townsend: “Ad revenue is off at Domino like it is across the industry, but the magazine is way ahead of our original plans to circulate it in the marketplace.”
 
Lucky Mag lost three editors today. :blink:

Thanks for the info shirleebee! I guess that's part of Si's demand for cuts across the board. I hope Domino doesn't fold... that's one of my fave mags... but it doesn't look good.

:(
 
^^What about Vogue Living? I have come to really like and enjoy it, so hopefully it survives.
 
^^What about Vogue Living? I have come to really like and enjoy it, so hopefully it survives.

They didn't publish a Fall issue & the last we heard they were only considering publishing a Spring 09 issue.

I think this was posted... but here it is again :flower:

NO HOME: Blame the housing market crisis, the dip in advertising impacting every magazine or any one of myriad reasons, but Vogue Living will not publish a scheduled second issue this year. The Vogue shelter spin-off published a spring issue and had planned to produce a fall one, but a Vogue spokesman confirmed Monday that the fall issue has been nixed. "We decided earlier in the year that, given the current ad climate, this wasn't the time to roll out a second issue," he explained. However, said the spokesman, a spring 2009 issue is still under consideration. In all, Vogue Living, which executives have insisted since its inception was not a launch title, has had three issues. The magazine had a 500,000 rate base, including 300,000 copies that were poly bagged to Vogue subscribers with household incomes over $100,000, or a net worth of over $1 million, or a home valued at more than $500,000. The first issue in November 2006 had 134 ad pages; its second, a year later, carried 34 percent fewer, at 85 pages. The latest issue, in April, carried 48 pages. But Vogue Living, published by WWD parent company Condé Nast, hasn't been alone: according to Mediaweek, the shelter category has slid 5 percent in ad pages through July of this year.

Source | Women's Wear Daily
 
Oh no, that is not good :( i totally missed that post so thanks for posting it again MMA.
 
source | fashionweekdaily

DNR Folds into WWD
Fairchild Fashion Group's trade rag to integrate with sister publication

Thursday, November 20, 2008

(NEW YORK) DNR, the men's fashion trade newspaper run by the Fairchild Fashion Group unit of Condé Nast Publications, has been folded into its sister publication WWD, The Daily has learned from sources inside the publication. Phone calls to DNR's editorial department were not returned. More details are forthcoming.

UPDATE: Condé Nast has issued a press release."With the men's and women's apparel businesses sharing many of the same issues, we believe that integrating men's coverage through WWD's daily print and digital resources is the best way to serve our global audience," Patrick McCarthy, editorial director of W, WWD and Footwear News, said in a statement. The press release explains things further: "In addition to daily men's coverage in print and online, WWD will publish in-depth WWDMen's reports every Thursday beginning in January, special sections during key fashion events, and WWDMen's Collections magazines twice each year. WWD.com will add a dedicated WWDMen's channel in December." The last issue of DNR will be published on November 24.
 
US Vogue Announces New Design Director

Danko Steiner is the new Design Director for US Vogue, Charles Churchwood is now out of the picture. I wonder why the change of staff. I also noticed many names on the masthead either replaced or just gone.
 
yes some new blood!
anyone would be good, just some change

names has dissappeared from the masthead? that means people a vogue got fired?!? :woot:

what's the source for this?
 
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I've basically studied the masthead to know what names are missing. But I also double checked. I compared the September 2008 issue an the December 2008 so changes were made within 3 months. But I believe the October issue features the new names to so it could have happened over a 1 month period.
 
there was an announcement that charles churchwood was leaving a few months ago, so the transition is now complete.
 
there was an announcement that charles churchwood was leaving a few months ago, so the transition is now complete.

That is correct. It was annouced in June that he was leaving. He stayed through the summer to finish work on the September issue. He is now working on a biography of Herb Ritts.
 
There are industry news sources that deal with this sort of information - for example, I get a fortnightly email from one such service that keeps me up to date on changes in UK publications. It lists who has been promoted, who has left, their changing job titles, whether they've gone freelance etc.

In general, if someone's not in a major/public role at a magazine/newspaper, their movements aren't really of interest to the general public, so it's no wonder it never gets announced, and all you see are vanishing names. But usually, there's a perfectly ordinary reason for them leaving, in a really boring, behind-the-scenes way.
 
source | fashion week daily

Live From New York
Interviewmagazine.com relaunches today with 40% original content

Monday, December 01, 2008

(NEW YORK) Following co-editorial directors Glenn O'Brien and Fabien Baron's full redesign of Interview magazine in September 2009, Brant Publications has relaunched the website Interviewmagazine.com today. Not strictly a companion site to the print edition, Interviewmagazine.com offers a virtual tour of the magazine's content through channels like fashion, art, music, and film. The site also features around 40% original online content, such as behind-the-scenes looks at photo shoots, as well as coverage of film festivals, art fairs and fashion weeks. Original video and blog content has also been developed. The launch will feature video interviews with artists including Jeff Koons, Cindy Sherman, Seth Price, Enoc Perez, Eddie Martinez, Banks Violette, Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen, and Francisco Costa.

Andy Warhol's Interview has always been the place where mass appeal meets uncanny intimacy, a convergence that informed the development of the magazine's web site," says Keith Pollock, executive editor, online. "In 'Nightlife,' we provide access to invitation-only dinner parties and fashionable film premieres. With our 'Captured' section users can sign in and upload their photos alongside personal photos taken by celebrities. Only on Interviewmagazine.com can these subjects coexist, up to the minute."
 
Source - Media Guardian online

'Both of us are quite outspoken'

Launched into choppy waters, can personality keep Peaches' style mag afloat, asks Stephen Armstrong.

They are one of media's more unlikely partnerships. Peaches Geldof - 19-year-old paparazzi favourite - and James Brown - 43-year-old ex-men's mag editor and TV pundit - sit side by side on a large grey sofa in a Soho office and flick through their joint magazine, Disappear Here.

They call it a "women's mag that appeals to men", and the first issue boasts a column by Tony Benn, wind-up calls to the BNP, Geldof interviewing Vivienne Westwood, Pete Doherty at the opera, fashion shoots and lots of new bands. "When I read Cosmopolitan, Company or Marie Claire I feel so patronised," Geldof, the editor-at-large, explains. "I'm not spending my time worrying about how to give my husband great sex so he stays with me. This isn't the 1950s. Women's magazines have no sense of humour. That's why I read Vice, GQ or Heat. I don't mind Heat. It's so insulting but in a really funny way - unlike Closer or Now, which are basically pointless."

Not entirely coincidentally, Disappear Here was also the name of a celebrity magazine Geldof created for an MTV reality show - which garnered plenty of (mainly negative) column inches but not too many viewers. Geldof and Brown met on the programme - he was the mentor who critiqued her work - but both insist the new title is connected to the TV celebrity version by name alone. Brown, the editorial director, denies that the magazine is a reality show stunt.

"The TV programme was a bit of a disaster," he says, "but while we were making it, I realised Peaches would actually be a really good magazine editor. Both of us are quite outspoken, which can cause friction with your peers, the industry or even the press, but it means you're very focused on a particular world-view and that's what a magazine editor needs to have. It's about letting the reader into that world."

Disappear Here is jointly owned by Brown, Geldof and her manager, Andy Varley, who refuse to reveal just how much of their own money they have spent on the venture. Dan Jude, a staff writer, joins from the MTV show, but other contributors were recruited by Brown from his recent stint as a judge on Miss Naked Beauty, or through people he knows - such as his friend Vince Power's daughter Nell, who files her copy during school lunch breaks. "I think it would be great if our inbox filled up at 4pm when all our contributors got out of school," he says. "I knew more about what the NME should be doing when I was 16 than when I was actually working for it."

Geldof, meanwhile, insists this is a permanent switch from being the subject of magazine coverage to writing for mags herself. "This is basically my job. I write for Nylon magazine in New York, and present a TV show for them, and I'm still doing other things around it, but this is the main focus of my energies," she says, although her Nylon column has not been universally well-received. "I want it to be a blank canvas for young talent - whether that's writers, photographers, graphic designers, artists or the bands and designers that we cover. I grew up with a lot of these bands, and they can't get a platform - or if they do it's in the NME, which is so paranoid about record sales that they'll turn on a band two weeks after putting them on the cover."

"Nothing in this magazine comes from the PR industry - it's basically Peaches and other young journalists raving about stuff they love," Brown adds. "My main criterion was - if I've heard of it, it probably shouldn't go in. I had doubts about interviewing Billy Childish because he's been around for such a long time, but Peaches said he was Kurt Cobain's big influence and we should feature him, so we did."

Issue zero - Disappear Here is a phrase from Bret Easton Ellis's novel Less Than Zero - will be given away free this Thursday to 50 unnamed record shops, bars, boutiques and clubs in London and New York, Geldof's adopted home city. It has 120 pages of editorial, no advertising, will be distributed by hand and serves, Brown explains, as a taster for the quarterly ad-funded issue one in March 2009. Having launched and then sold his own magazine company, I Feel Good, after a notorious sacking from GQ - when the mag praised the cut of Nazi uniforms - he's confident it will attract revenue and is here for the long haul.

"This first issue cost less than three first-class flights to New York and it's got more content than the first issue of Jack - which won tons of awards and took £1m in ad revenue in its first 12 months," he says. "Dazed & Confused, i-D and even Reader's Digest launched like this and they're all doing very well. The only problem with Dazed is that Rankin is now taking pictures of the Queen. They're great pictures, but that isn't the fanzine attitude."

Although Disappear Here will follow the fanzine/style mag template of paying aspiring writers and photographers next to nothing, it's launching into waters that are notoriously choppy. In 2005, more than six such titles hit the newsstands and record shops, including Good for Nothing, edited by former Sleaze Nation journalists, and Little White Lies, a movie magazine created by a group of graduates. Almost four years later, only Little White Lies is still afloat.

Danny Miller, its publisher, says, "We survive through the other work we do around the magazine ... We sell around 15,000 copies of the magazine bi-monthly, but it's the contract publishing work we get through using Lies as a shop window that keeps us afloat. I think we're well placed to survive the recession."

Clearly Geldof, Brown and Varley have plenty of other work and are not relying on the magazine for their income. Brown is understood to have made a fortune from the sale of IFG and works as a consultant, while Geldof makes money modelling and laughs at her agent's £300 haircuts.

Assuming all goes well, however, they hope to build other revenue streams into the company. "Vice magazine started as a free giveaway and now it's an international brand," Geldof explains. "It's got tours, bars and TV shows. That would be easy for us to emulate. James knows Vince Power and consults for AMC concerts, who organise the V festivals, and we're both always being asked to give our names and contacts to various ventures. Now we'll be able to do it for ourselves."

http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2008/dec/01/peaches-geldof-magazine-disappear-here
 
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And in the same section, Toby Young's review of it...

'It's a hotchpotch'

Toby Young on Peaches Geldof's new magazine Disappear Here.

One wag has described James Brown and Peaches Geldof's new magazine as the "noughties answer" to what Julie [Burchill] and I were doing in the 1990s. Is it? I should be flattered that anyone remembers our little magazine, but on the face of it Disappear Here doesn't have a great deal in common with the Modern Review.

Our roster of writers included Nick Hornby, Pauline Kael, Will Self, Camille Paglia, Greil Marcus and Louis Theroux, among others, while Disappear Here only has three main contributors: Peaches Geldof, Tony Benn and someone called Dan Jude who's written approximately three-quarters of the articles in the magazine. A typical piece in the Modern Review would consist of, say, Dr Eric Griffiths reviewing the 22-CD box set of the complete works of Igor Stravinsky ("Civilisation and its discotheques"). Contrast this with Peaches writing about Reese's Peanut Butter Sticks, number one on her list of "50 Things We Love": "**** health. **** teeth. **** vegetables. Eat Reeses [sic] Peanut Butter Sticks."

To be fair, there probably are some similarities between the two magazines. For instance, Julie and I were often not quite sober when thinking up ideas for editorial features, which may explain the long-running series on writers and their body parts (Martin Amis's teeth, for instance). Is this what inspired a feature called "Drew Barrymore" in Disappear Here? "No, not the acting child prodigy, but a drawing of the TV presenter your nan loved most," explains the magazine. "We'll be featuring a drawing of Barrymore in every issue because one day we'll be having a massive Michael Barrymore exhibition."

More importantly, there's the complete ignorance about the whole business side of publishing a magazine. We just pasted the thing up on my kitchen table, took it to the printers, gave it to our distributors and hoped for the best. This appears to be Geldof and Brown's strategy, too. No thought has gone into what niche the magazine might fill - it's a hotchpotch of music, fashion and art, accompanied by lots and lots of swearing. We launched the Modern Review in 1991, at the height of the recession, so there's an overlap there, too. Not much advertising around then; even less now, I suspect. But our costs were low, thanks to the fact that it was produced out of my flat in Shepherd's Bush and printed on newsprint. I don't know what office costs Disappear Here has, but it's printed on thick, glossy paper and that will probably be the death of it. It isn't simply the lack of advertising that's causing lay-offs at Britain's newspapers, but the increasing cost of paper. Geldof and Brown would have a much higher chance of succeeding if they'd launched a website instead.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2008/dec/01/peaches-geldof-magazine-disappear-here1
 

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