The Business of Magazines | Page 258 | the Fashion Spot

The Business of Magazines

To whom it may concern: Hungarian Elle, Marie Claire and InStyle all went bimonthly due to the epidemics. Cosmo already started coming out once in two months with their January-February issue, while Glamour in Hungary is still a monthly (for now).
 
In a live today at Vogue Brazil instagram, the EIC revealed that today they had a meeting with all vogue editors in the world to discuss the September issue. And she said that there will be more shocking covers like vogue Italy and they are working with illustrators.
 
Ed
To whom it may concern: Hungarian Elle, Marie Claire and InStyle all went bimonthly due to the epidemics. Cosmo already started coming out once in two months with their January-February issue, while Glamour in Hungary is still a monthly (for now).
thanks for this​
 
Norman Tan of Esquire SG is confirmed as the EIC of Vogue Singapore
 
Not entirely opposed to this move because Norman's work at Esquire Singapore was solid. He managed to snatch top celebrities from the UK and US editions and turned the brand into a powerhouse. Esquire is fashion-forward and filled with great content and strong advertising. I can see him get a lot of advertisers on board, court a lot of big name photographers and cast, but I don't know he'd deal with women's fashion. Elle and Bazaar Singapore, just like his Esquire, are very international in their approach because imo most Singaporeans in general are like that. He'd definitely need to go more in that direction, but maybe with less celebrities? But just because someone is good with men's fashion doesn't mean they're as good with women's - and vice versa.

Keen to see how this will play out. And I'm beginning to wonder whether CN looks at gender when appointing these EICs. It's a slippery slope, to be honest.
 
Vogue Italia Reacts to Coronavirus Crisis With Special Edition
For the first time in the history of the glossy magazine, the April edition of Vogue Italia features a totally white cover.


MILAN — Vogue Italia is reacting to the coronavirus pandemic with a special issue, featuring, for the first time in the history of the magazine, a totally white cover.

“White is, first and foremost, respect. White is rebirth, light after the darkness, the sum of all the colors. White is the uniforms of those who have saved lives while risking their own. It’s time and space for thinking. And for staying silent too. White is for people who are filling this time and space with ideas, thoughts, stories, verses, music and kindness to others,” said Vogue Italia editor in chief Emanuele Farneti. “It’s a reminder that after the crisis in 1929, clothes turned white, a color chosen to express purity in the present and hope for the future. And above all, white is not surrender; it’s a blank page to be filled, the frontispiece of a new story about to begin.”

Inside, the April issue of the magazine — which hits newsstands today and is free for download at the title’s web site — shows a fashion feature realized in a week by 40 artists who usually collaborate with the glossy publication. Reflecting the emergency, which is shaking the industry, the feature includes contributions from high-profile fashion personalities such as Steven Klein, David Sims, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, Joe McKenna, Bella and Gigi Hadid, Collier Schorr, Glen Luchford, Paolo Roversi, Petra Collins, Willy Vanderperre, Olivier Rizzo and Lindsey Wixson to cite a few, who shot at-home pictures of themselves, their families and their friends connected online.

“Some people say that the raison d’être of Vogue is to entertain — to offer a few hours of divertissement to those who leaf through its pages. I don’t know about that. What I do know, as you’ll read in this issue, is that in its long history stretching back over 100 years, this magazine has come through wars, crises, acts of terrorism. I know that its noblest tradition is never to look the other way (perhaps the most shining example is Audrey Withers, who was editor in chief of the British edition during the Nazi air raids). Because, as Withers herself observed, to be passive is to consent to the status quo,” Farneti wrote in the editor’s letter. “Just under two weeks ago, we were about to print an issue that we had been planning for some time, and which also involved L’Uomo Vogue in a twin project. But to speak of anything else — while people are dying, doctors and nurses are risking their lives and the world is changing forever — is not the DNA of Vogue Italia. Accordingly, we shelved our project and started from scratch.”

Participating in the creation of the magazine during the global lockdown, a range of fashion designers — such as Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, Miuccia Prada, Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele, Donatella Versace, Michael Kors, Stella McCartney, No. 21 creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Jeremy Scott — created dedicated sketches. In addition, Michele and Piccioli discussed with Vogue Italia how they are coping with the creative process while working from home.
source | wwd
 
Posted Jan 23, 2020:

Vogue Singapore update:

One of the Vogue Singapore staffers posted an Instagram Story announcing the launch of the magazine. She tagged the von Schlippes (publishers), and Norman Tan (Editor-in-Chief of Esquire Singapore).

It could mean anything as Norman is also a Digital Editor of other magazines. However, Condé Nast International has shifted to the trend of appointing male editors so I won’t completely rule him out.

Pats myself in the back. CIA hire me.
 
I guess we'll see another pretentious male editor.

Based on his Esquire Singapore track record, I am not excited for this launch.


Conde Nast needs to stop appointing male editors. With the exception of Edward, it doesn't work.

I want women to lead Vogue. I want someone who can understand what it's like to be a woman leading a woman's magazine. Call me outdated. This is exactly why I feel like there's a disconnect between the magazine and the reader.
 
CD should hire a woman for GQ, that would be fair. Kate Lanphear did an amazing job with Maxim, very underrated.
 
CD should hire a woman for GQ, that would be fair. Kate Lanphear did an amazing job with Maxim, very underrated.

I suppose the SJWs can't openly outrage over all these male appointments because if they were to say that men shouldn't be editing Vogue they'd be opening the women breaking boundaries in other male-dominated fields to criticism as well.

So I agree with you, it would be just to start installing women in men's magazines. I nominate Maria Molina for Esquire Spain!
 
I wonder if all of the september issues of vogue will produce the same content.

I guess someone like eg, Kate Moss lives with a photographer so getting content will be possible. and covers can be illustrated or cgi rendered.

But will the issues have adverts? Will people be able to buy them? Can you get the clothes shipped by the PRs?
 
I wonder if all of the september issues of vogue will produce the same content.

I guess someone like eg, Kate Moss lives with a photographer so getting content will be possible. and covers can be illustrated or cgi rendered.

But will the issues have adverts? Will people be able to buy them? Can you get the clothes shipped by the PRs?
That’s the problem, the ad’s are shooting after fashion week, so I don’t know how they are doing. And the clothes are not being produced. Sooo...
I think it’s be the most thin September issue in the history
 
Italian Elle announced that their new issue is two days late, and that it will be on newsstands for two weeks (instead of one).
 
How Will the Coronavirus Impact Already Fragile Glossy Magazine Print Ads?

With May editions wrapped up before the crisis exploded, the full extent of the toll it will take on advertising will likely not be seen until the crucial September issues.

By Kathryn Hopkins on April 10, 2020

As it prepares to launch its May issue with cover face Gal Gadot, Vogue took to its Instagram account to tell its 26 million-plus followers that it was “reported and written before COVID-19 began to take hold in the U.S.” “It went to press as profound changes to daily life were being seen across the country,” the magazine explained.

Vogue is just one of many monthly fashion and lifestyle magazines that won’t have much COVID-19 content apart from it being mentioned in the editor in chief’s note and maybe a couple more references, if anything at all, with most wrapping up their newest issues before large parts of the U.S. were forced to ground to a halt.

But it’s not just the content that won’t reflect what’s happening in the outside world. While down significantly from the long-gone heyday of magazine publishing, there will still no doubt be a decent amount of advertisements from luxury brands in these titles at a time when many have closed their stores, are making face masks instead of clothes and handbags, and have slashed their marketing budgets due to the global plunge in their revenues over the first few months of the year.

That’s because, unlike newspapers, the impact of the coronavirus crisis on advertising won’t immediately be seen in glossy magazines since they have a lead time of around two to three months. As a result, many of these ads would have been sold before there were any confirmed cases of coronavirus in the U.S.

Instead, advertising experts expect the first signs to start to appear in the June issues and by September, the most important month of the year for magazines, the decline will be clearly visible, especially for those that depend on luxury brand advertising. Independent magazines will likely feel the pain more quickly.

“The luxury category is seriously negatively impacted in the short term so there’s probably certain specific titles that are going to be hurt harder than others at least, as it relates to future commitments or near term commitments of spending,” said Brian Wieser, global president of business intelligence at WPP’s GroupM. “Certainly the evidence from China so far suggests that luxury is hard hit.”

Just over a month ago, before most of the U.S. was working from home, MediaVillage analyst Jack Myers was predicting consumer print magazine advertising revenue would drop around 2.8 percent in 2020 due to COVID-19. Now he is forecasting a fall of more than 16 percent for the industry as a whole and for some publishers to underperform their 2020 budget expectations or revenue expectations by as much as 50 percent.

“We’ll see magazines stop publishing, become thinner, become special issue-orientated with a high subscriber price or a high single-issue price,” he predicted. “The weak will get weaker. Those that have the resources to survive will shrink and I think we’ll see an acceleration of trends that were already in place.”

Michael Moszynski, founder and chief executive officer of London Advertising Agency, believes that in the short term, the slump will be “a lot harder” than the 2008 financial crisis because day-to-day expenditure has dried up.

“That revenue isn’t going to come back later in the year,” he said. “Where clients have retained any ad spend they’ve retained it in the digital sector because they see that as easier to turn on or turn off. It’s quicker. You’re not into two-month lead times, all of those things. So that’s further exacerbating an issue that already existed.”

Part of the issue is that many U.S. magazines were already in a fragile position before the coronavirus crisis in terms of print advertising, which still accounts for the bulk of revenue despite the rise of digital and video.

According to the Association of Magazine Media, magazines lost at least $417.5 million in advertising revenue in 2017. It did not respond to a request for 2018 data, the most recent available, or for comment on how the industry is faring. But in the U.K., there are signs of what could come in the U.S. In a recent letter to Oliver Dowden, the British secretary of state for digital, culture, media and sport, The Professional Publishers’ Association, which represents Condé Nast U.K., Hearst U.K., Time Out Group and Net-a-porter Group, warned that publishers reported that advertising revenues were down between 20 percent and 95 percent for the coming quarter.

Back in the U.S., already troubled W magazine is struggling even more, with owner Marc Lotenberg telling The New York Times last month that “the bottom has dropped out of the luxury market.” As a result, some print staff, who were already working from home, have been furloughed, and the online team is on reduced salaries.

And in an e-mail to staffers Wednesday, Jim Bankoff, the ceo of Vox Media, which owns New York Magazine and The Cut, as well as Eater, Vox and Recode, among others, delivered a gloomy outlook on advertising. “I’ll state the obvious that the advertising market is experiencing a downturn unlike ever before,” he said.

“While at this point I can’t put an exact number on our own decline, I know that — just like nearly all other companies and publishers — we have already seen a significant impact in March and our business will continue to be deeply affected this quarter, next quarter and likely for the remainder of 2020,” he added.

Like many other media companies, Vox’s advertising issues come despite record engagement. In the same memo, he highlighted that the week of March 23 was the greatest week for new subscriptions since New York Magazine launched its digital subscription product in 2018, although he did not mention print.

It’s understood that Hearst Magazines, the publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan and Marie Clare, is seeing an overall 42 percent month-over-month increase in subscription sales, while Doug Olson, president of Meredith Magazines, whose titles include InStyle, said it, too, has seen an increase in subscriptions, which account for 96 percent of its sales.

He acknowledged, though, that clearly there will be an impact across the media business on all platforms from falling advertising. “The level of impact is being determined,” he said. Since Meredith is a publicly traded company, it will provide an update on advertising when it releases third-quarter earnings in May.

For one, the London Advertising Agency’s Moszynski believes any threat to the magazine sector is of “great concern.”

“I still think it is one of the most valuable ways of delivering to a targeted audience, because of affinity to an interest area, a message which can cut through,” he said. “Maybe the sector needs to consider some of its own marketing to make sure it doesn’t go the way of the dodo.”

WWD
 
Anyone knows anything about Vogue Turkiye? I didn’t see any issues of 2020 of them, and the EIC Seda Dominic left the magazine
 
@caioherrero the magazine was taken over by another publishing company and was supposed to relaunch, but I guess the pandemics messed up and prolonged the process.
 
Condé Nast to Seek Pay Cuts and Government Assistance

The glossy magazine publisher says it is experiencing “significant financial pressure” and imposing cost-saving measures across the globe.

By Edmund Lee and Vanessa Friedman
April 13, 2020, 9:00 a.m. ET

Condé Nast, the most glittering of all the glossy magazine publishers, is the latest media casualty of the coronavirus pandemic.

On Monday morning, the publisher of Vogue, Vanity Fair, The New Yorker and Architectural Digest, sent a memo to its 6,000 employees around the world from its chief executive, Roger Lynch, outlining pay cuts for high earners and reduced hours for other employees. The memo said the company also planned to seek government assistance in Britain and the European Union.

“It’s very likely our advertising clients, consumers, and therefore our company, will be operating under significant financial pressure for some time,” Mr. Lynch said in the note. “As a result, we’ll need to go beyond the initial cost-savings measures we put in place to protect our business for the long term.”

Those earning $100,000 or more — approximately just under half the company — will have their salaries reduced by 10 to 20 percent for five months, starting in May. Executives in the senior management team, which includes Anna Wintour, the artistic director of the company and its best-known figurehead, will have their pay cut by 20 percent. Mr. Lynch said he would forgo half of his salary. Board members who are not employees of Advance Publications (the holding company that owns Condé Nast), like Domenico De Sole, former chief executive of Gucci Group, will also have a 50 percent reduction in their compensation.

Mr. Lynch said he also expected some layoffs, but didn’t specify how many. “While we consider it a last option, we do expect there will be some role eliminations as part of these efforts,” he said. Those decisions are expected in May. In the meantime, the company has frozen hiring on hundreds of open positions.

Condé Nast also said it would ask for bailout funds in Europe and Britain, where it will also move to implement three-four day workweeks for some employees. The publisher plans to take advantage of the “partial activity” assistance programs in those regions that will make up lost salary for employees who have been furloughed or had their hours cut. In 2019 the company united its American and international arms, which include 11 owned and operated titles, into a single entity. The company has operations in France, Italy, Germany and Spain, as well as Asia, though half of its employees are based in the United States.

Condé Nast would be one of the first publishers to request taxpayer funds. It’s an unusual move for a business that pays high salaries for editors who historically enjoyed perks such as town cars and clothing allowances, and sales executives who sell luxury advertising. It also risks alienating readers, for whom the idea of a gilded publisher requesting funds that could go to suffering workers may be anathema.

Recently two of Condé Nast’s most prominent clients, the luxury groups LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Kering, reportedly told furloughed employees they would be part of the “partial activity” government programs in France, but were forced to backpedal after peers such as Chanel announced they would bear the costs themselves rather than tap into the public purse.

Magazines had already been on rocky ground before the coronavirus started spreading across the globe, but now the industry is in free fall. Its luxury advertisers, the lifeblood of its fashion and lifestyle magazines, are cutting their marketing budgets or shelving them entirely. Consumers are turning away from fantasy purchases and saving their money for necessities.

Condé Nast had already been re-evaluating its media strategy, refashioning itself to cater to an online audience more attuned to Instagram and TikTok. It has sold off fusty titles and turned once-mighty glossies like Glamour into digital-only enterprises. Following the subscription success of The New Yorker, paywalls went up around Vanity Fair and Wired. Vogue, still the flagship, has also started to embrace digital publishing, though it is still highly dependent on advertising revenue.

As a result, and after several years of losses, the business had been on pace to turn a healthy profit this year. The global pandemic has altered that trajectory, as it has for all other publishers.

“We aren’t alone in needing to take actions like this,” Mr. Lynch said in the memo. “Companies around the world are all facing similar challenges and responding accordingly. But that doesn’t make this process any easier.”

nytimes.com


 

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