The Business of Magazines

How on earth is asking what one's father does a racial micro-aggression? Do you have evidence that this was only asked to her? Was this asked across the board? If these too were asked to a white applicant, is it racial micro-aggression - exactly, it's not. Stop using these terms loosely as it diminishes its impact and meaning.

These questions reek of elitism. Racial micro-aggression these are not.

Not every comment in here automatically amounts to "dismissing" something or someone. That's insanely counterproductive and disrupts healthy discourse.

And not every comment about Anna’s behaviour when it comes to obvious racial micro aggressions (and no I’m not using that term loosely) amounts to just ‘another person milking the Anna hate’.

How is calling it just ‘another person milking the Anna hate’ not a dismissal? And how is calling it that not counterproductive to a healthy discourse?
 
There's a spreadsheet with CN staff salaries. Linked in this tweet by an Allure editor, so maybe legit

 
It looks like V disabled comments on their Instagram posts as of a few days ago. I can’t decide if I think that’s a good idea or not. On the one hand I’m sure they’re seeing a lot of vitriol And I don’t envy the Social Media intern who has to deal with it. On the other hand, is it wise to not let your followers express their opinions or engage with your content?
 
"As a gay man from the Philippines.... who experienced discrimination himself."

Oh please Stephen. Save it.

How he still is the EIC of V Magazine amazes me
 
Stephen Gan on Way Out at Elle Magazine
The creative director has recently been accused of making racially insensitive and misogynistic comments in the workplace.


By Kathryn Hopkins and Kali Hays on June 15, 2020

Stephen Gan’s tenure at Elle magazine is said to be nearing its end.

Sources said the creative director of the Hearst title since 2018 is being pushed out by Nina Garcia, the editor in chief of Elle, who pulled him over from Harper’s Bazaar soon after she got the top job. Gan also spent 15 years as creative director at Bazaar under its editor Glenda Bailey, who has just been succeeded by Samira Nasr, so he’s been with Hearst for close to 20 years.

A representative of Hearst declined to comment. Gan and Garcia could not be reached.

According to sources, it’s been decided that Gan will no longer have any work with Elle or Hearst going forward and that his contract, up in several weeks, will not be renewed.

Gan, whom Garcia has praised as a “creative visionary,” is being ousted over recent complaints about comments he’s made over the years, allegedly showing not only racial insensitivity but misogyny.

Several instances claimed by anonymous sources were recently outlined in a post by Instagram account Diet Prada, all of which related to Gan’s day-to-day operation of V magazine, the oversize glossy he’s been running for 20 years. But Garcia’s decision is said to have had reasons beyond that post alone, including complaints she’s heard from staff and industry people that Gan has worked with on shoots. It’s understood that there have been a number of complaints over the years, and much murmuring, some recently brought up again.

It remains to be seen what effect, if any, Gan’s alleged comments and professional impropriety will have on V. It, like all magazines, depends on advertising revenue to survive. In an April interview with WWD, Gan said advertising was at a “standstill” due to the pandemic, although he was hopeful it would improve.

There have been rumblings for months that Gan’s departure was on the horizon. One source told WWD earlier this year that Garcia was unlikely to renew Gan’s contract this summer, although the reasons why were not made clear. Others speculated that stylist Alex White, hired as Elle’s new fashion director in February, was being lined up to take over some of Gan’s responsibilities.


Gan is not the only media executive to have been pushed out in recent weeks as the protests over the police killing of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and other unarmed Black people have led to a global movement focused on addressing continued racism in all kinds of institutions. Many people working in media have come forward, typically on social media, to speak of negative and often racist experiences as people of color working in the media industry.

In just a few weeks, the public outcry has resulted in the ousting of Refinery29’s editor in chief Christene Barberich, Bon Appétit’s top editor Adam Rapoport and Condé Nast’s vice president and head of programming for lifestyle and style Matt Duckor. Leandra Medine also took a step back from leading the fashion and lifestyle site she founded, Man Repeller, after being called out for a lack of diversity on staff. Jane Larkworthy has been suspended from New York Magazine’s The Cut after a comment on the brown face photo that led to Rapoport’s exit. And James Bennett, the opinion editor of the New York Times, was ousted after publishing a piece by a Republican senator calling for military force to be used in order to quell the ongoing public protests in the aftermath of Floyd’s killing. A number of Times employees took public issue with the op-ed being published, saying it endangered the lives of Black people, thousands of whom have been protesting in public.

The issue of diversity has even come to the doorstep of Anna Wintour, who has only in recent years made an effort to make the pages of Vogue more diverse, along with some other parts of Condé Nast in her relatively few years as artistic director of the publication. The speculation that the current movement would lead to her resignation led to Condé chief executive having to clarify on Friday that renewed rumors of Wintour’s imminent exit were untrue.
source | wwd
 
Just as I predicted in the other thread, and I'm sure Nina is more worried than anyone else right now because Colls, Hassett, and all those high tier photographers we've seen in Elle must've come via Gan. And with the big photographer names came the big model names like Ashley, Imaan etc. With him out of the equation, how will she secure them now? Time to butter up Cole Sprouse then.

As for V, he'll have to get off the masthead there as well. I can see a lot of advertiser pressure, along with talent refusing to work with the magazine if he's formally associated with it. Expect a new EIC or puppet editor pretty soon because Gan will probably still want to pull the strings bts.
 
There’s no denying Stephen Gan seems to be a horrible person, but despite that he seems to have championed diversity to a certain degree at V when you look at his staff and the people featured inside the magazine.

Hearst ‘firing’ him seems a bit hollow if his contract was already up for renewal. He does make an easy scape goat for Hearst.

He’s a difficult man, who was good at his job, so he got away with it before. Thinking of that, I wonder how someone like Karl Lagerfeld would’ve fared in times like these.
 
Just as I predicted in the other thread, and I'm sure Nina is more worried than anyone else right now because Colls, Hassett, and all those high tier photographers we've seen in Elle must've come via Gan. And with the big photographer names came the big model names like Ashley, Imaan etc. With him out of the equation, how will she secure them now? Time to butter up Cole Sprouse then.

As for V, he'll have to get off the masthead there as well. I can see a lot of advertiser pressure, along with talent refusing to work with the magazine if he's formally associated with it. Expect a new EIC or puppet editor pretty soon because Gan will probably still want to pull the strings bts.
With Alex White?
 
Interesting piece about magazine diversity in the U.K. Good House Keeping and RED have essentially had two women of colour on their covers in the past six years.

If anyone doesn’t know Caroline, she’s a skincare expert and a big voice in the beauty world, so she’s been coming at everything from that angle. It’s been incredibly interesting.

ie. When people have been saying boycott Estée Lauder due to the heir’s Trump donations she’s been saying yes I agree HOWEVER Mac is potentially the largest employer of black women within the beauty industry, so think about your cancel culture and how it might effect things.

REVELATIONS OF A MAG ADDICT - THE COVER STORY - Caroline Hirons
 
Publishers better release sold copies numbers to show who are the real racists

I think this would result in revealing another problem in the print industry - the public itself.

Diversifying the covers and the contents are one thing, buying the issue itself is another.

Some people who clamor for diversity, are the very same people who allow BIPOC cover stars to fail in the newsstands. The people outside of this forum should start putting their money where their mouths are.

I'm saying "outside this forum" since I'm presuming most of the members here (or are actively participating in the magazine threads) are magazine collectors.
 
Interesting piece about magazine diversity in the U.K.
The way she put it, it's about the representation of Black people, and not diversity/inclusivity.
She said: I was looking only at the women’s mags, and I was looking for Black women, not Latino, Asian, Indian, Pakistani etc.. Black women.
If you are writing about inclusivity, why excluding the others? I find that to be the problem with Edward's Vogue. Just like Alexandra used to insist on her own people (the Caucasian ones), Edward is doing the same with the African ones. 2-3 years into his tenure and zero covers with East Asian models, for example.
 
2-3 years into his tenure and zero covers with East Asian models, for example.

Yoon Young Bae was on the cover of the May 2018 issue of UK Vogue. However, she was on the fold-out. If I remember correctly, majority of the members here do not consider foldouts as covers.

Although I get your point. Diversity should apply across the board. I am yet to see a magazine to fully support East Asian/South East Asian models
 
I would like Caroline to do the same for Grazia, The Stylist and Sunday Times Style. How do we get those covers analysed?
Plus what about GQ, Esquire and Mens Health?
 
I would like Caroline to do the same for Grazia, The Stylist and Sunday Times Style. How do we get those covers analysed?
Plus what about GQ, Esquire and Mens Health?

I don’t know about other editions, but in the US, at least, GQ is leaps and bounds ahead of most women’s magazines. In the past 2 years, I can think of at least 15 covers featuring POC.
 
I can’t back this up with facts as I haven’t done the research, but it’s my impression that Male magazines might have a higher %, but largely due to a lot sports stars who land on those covers? For GQ UK I can think in recent memory of Lewis Hamilton, Raheem Sterling, Stormzy, Dave, Dr Dre, Dina Asher-Smith, Adwoa. I’m not saying it’s the right % by any means, but it does feel like perhaps if you did the maths it might be higher than some of the women’s. Though they have so many multi covers in there to confuse it too.
 

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