The Business of Magazines

[mikel]

The issue is already available. Daniela Paudice is involved as international creative fashion director at large.... A whole mess from the cover to the back cover.

Daniela Paudice is the one who ruined Vogue China right?

 

[Benn98]

Daniela Paudice is involved as international creative fashion director at large.....

That alone screams mess to me! Does she have control over Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan and Thailand as well?

 

[caioherrero]

The issue is already available. Daniela Paudice is involved as international creative fashion director at large.... A whole mess from the cover to the back cover.

Can u post the masthead?

 

[Bertrando3]

I don't know if this has been shared but I just found it today and it's very enjoyable. This is not the promo video, it's an interview with Hamish Bowles. I was gifted the whole MasterClass with Anna Wintour and it was absolutely fantastic guys

#MasterClassLive with Anna Wintour | MasterClass

Source: MasterClass

 

[GivenchyAddict]

That alone screams mess to me! Does she have control over Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan and Thailand as well?

No I don't think so. The "International" is there as she is the one who commission the international stylists. For example, Patrick Mackie did an editorial (very generic) for this first issue.

She is bad at styling and commissioning. Condé Nast is so weird in their choices between Anya Ziourova and her... The art direction is really Dazed China. I was hoping with Norman as EIC some chic glamorous Vogue but no.

 

[axiomatic]

Just five months after it received a $7.5 million federal small business loan, Bustle Digital Group, the publisher of Bustle, Nylon and Mic, appears to be pitching potential investors amid the pandemic, WWD has learned.

In its quest, BDG is understood to have shared bullish forecasts, projecting revenues of $121 million and gross profit of $92 million, respectively, in 2021. In 2019, revenues came in at $89 million and are expected to slip to $83 million this year, but profit is on track to remain unchanged at $67 million. If the 2021 numbers are realized, this will mark quite the turnaround from April, when the company applied for the federal loan, laid off staffers and cut pay as the COVID-19 crisis decimated advertising revenues across the whole media industry.

What’s more, while Condé Nast and Future Media Group struggled to turn W Magazine’s fortunes around, BDG is betting that its recently formed partnership to operate the oversize glossy will add a projected $11 million to top-line revenue in 2021.

As part of the deal involving a number of celebrity backers — including models Karlie Kloss and Kaia Gerber and Formula One race car driver Lewis Hamilton — BDG will manage the newly named W Media’s sales, business and technology, with chief executive officer Bryan Goldberg serving as managing partner. It plans to print the magazine six times a year, which will mark the digital media company’s first foray into print since its plans to return Nylon to print were stalled by the pandemic.

BDG is hoping that it will be a vehicle through which it can attract luxe advertisers. This may be easier said than done, though, at a time when high-end fashion brands are struggling and rethinking their marketing needs. Before the deal, the magazine was treading water amid the COVID-19 crisis, with former owner Future Media furloughing print staff and cutting the salaries of digital employees as luxe advertisers retreated. Staffers are now thought to be back at work.

The partnership came just a few months after BDG in April implemented a series of cost-saving measures as COVID-19 hit. These included laying off two dozen staffers, introducing a temporary tiered pay reduction and shuttering Millennial-focused site The Outline.

Just two weeks later BDG received the PPP loan, which raised some eyebrows since it was a venture-backed company that could access other forms of capital, while many small businesses across the country that had limited alternative financing options reported difficulties in obtaining a loan. Through the PPP, businesses can borrow up to $10 million depending on the size of their workforce and the Small Business Administration will forgive loans if all employees are kept on the payroll for eight weeks and the money is used for payroll, rent, mortgage interest or utilities. It’s not known if BDG will have to pay the loan back.

At the time, the company said the loan would enable it “to partially undo salary reductions across the company and expand hours for part-time and freelance writers.”

According to Crunchbase, to date BDG, which also owns women’s lifestyle site The Zoe Report, Elite Daily, Input and the defunct Gawker, has raised $80.5 million in funds.

A BDG spokeswoman declined to comment.

BDG Pitches Investors With Bullish Growth Forecasts

 

[axiomatic]

Kali Hays

Stefano Tonchi never thought he’d be putting together a magazine without stepping foot into an office, much less without printing out a single page proof.

“It’s a completely new experience, let’s put it like that,” Tonchi said, speaking from his home on Long Island, where he’s been essentially every day since spring due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic. He began his new job as contributing global creative director of L’Officiel at the start of the year, but it was only a few weeks before lockdown in the West began. Still, he’s been putting together a reimagined version of the magazine for its new fall issue.

“I’ve only seen it in digital so I’m dying to see a print copy,” Tonchi added.

The new issue is one of four main print editions a year for L’Officiel, with another two editions for men and two special ones. This is a much scaled-back plan for L’Officiel, owned by France’s Jalou Media, as it’s not gone unscathed by the economic fallout of the pandemic. It decided to cut back print issues and had trouble paying scores of freelancers, many who turned in work long before Tonchi joined and the pandemic began. A company spokeswoman said L’Officiel is working to pay all freelancers that are owed over the next six months in installments. Current freelancers are said to have been paid in full and on time.

But some former freelancers are claiming that, while they are being offered payments, they are not for the full amounts owed. So they’re calling it a “delay tactic” and one that L’Officiel has used before, allegedly with no results for freelancers. While the issue is said to be being addressed, with an aim to getting all freelancers paid in the next six months, the spokeswoman only allowed that she’s “Not privy to specifics as they relate to discussions with various individuals.”

But it’s been up to Tonchi to oversee the updated look of L’Officiel and it’s the first magazine he’s put together anywhere since early 2019, when his tenure as editor in chief of Condé Nast’s W ended in dramatic fashion.

“I wasn’t sure I’d be talking about doing a magazine again in my life,” he said. But he is and, even without being produced amid a pandemic, Tonchi’s L’Officiel marks a departure. There are models and actors draped in luxury fashion (mostly advertisers, as usual), but the magazine is more cohesive, with a theme running throughout. There’s also a new typeface and some more bold names involved, like photographer Cass Bird and Vanessa Seward.

Tonchi found some new people to help update the magazine, too. On board now are Anthony Cenname, formerly publisher of WSJ magazine and vice president of luxury at Dow Jones, who’s been tasked with pumping up ad pages as L’Officiel’s global chief revenue officer. Joshua Glass, formerly digital director of CR Fashion Book, has come on as global digital editorial director in order to broaden social and digital. And Trey Laird of his agency Laird + Partners led the creative direction of the new U.S. fall issue and worked with Tonchi to figure out things like a new “language” and “vocabulary” that would be the foundation of L’Officiel’s 30 global issues. Most are operated through license agreements.

Finding “a common ground” allowed stories in the magazine to be produced by teams all over, Tonchi said. A jewelry spread came out of Mexico, a beauty spread out of Malaysia. Meanwhile, a conversation between Pierre Cardin and Simon Porte Jacquemus came out of France and most of the pages were actually put together in Italy.

“We would all talk on video together and then someone, somewhere would execute,” Tonchi said. “It’s the future for companies that want to work on a global scale — you can’t afford anymore to have one originator of all the content.”

But the language the global team is operating on is not that of W, which Tonchi led for a decade and which was long before that a source of all that was new and revelatory in fashion.

“This is not something revolutionary in any possible way,” Tonchi said of the reimagined L’Officiel. “It’s not something to make only the hip fashion people in Paris or New York happy. It’s for people all over, in Ukraine and Turkey. And it’s not that they are behind at all, it’s just different.”

“L’Officiel is a brand that’s always served the fashion industry,” Tonchi added. “It started as a house organ for French couture. I’ve been looking through the archive a lot and there’s not a famous stylist or editor or photographer leading things, but an almost collective story of what fashion has been for the last 100 years. That’s what I want to bring back to the brand.”

He also admitted that he’s been pushing the magazine to feel “more elegant, grown up” — inside and out.

“What the company needs is some common sense and some common ground,” he said.

Stefano Tonchi Bows New L’Officiel and New Hires

 

[8eight]

Anna to be taking over LOVE?

 

[MON]

Anna to be taking over LOVE?

What?

 

[Cute]

What?

 

[MON]

The power this has if its true.

Why does this Pam boy, whoever he is, sound so bitter? I mean youre already at a new magazine, and with a stable job. One might think he got sacked.

Not gonna lie, I really don't know who he is as I don't look at magazines beyond the EIC.

 

[tigerrouge]

If American corporate intrusion was coming my way, I’d be readying myself to make the most of the opportunities on offer, because even when print media was at the height of its power and jobs abounded, it was a cruel world, where you could be editor one day and then out in the wilderness the next.

If it’s happening, I wonder if it’s coming as a direct result of Katie vacating the post – or did she already know the arm of Anna Wintour was extending towards the magazine, so she left to set up her new magazine project in good time ahead of any such announcement, to make it seem like she wasn’t running away from the situation.

 

[SophiaVB]

Pam boy literally just tweets out random industry gossip all day. He needs to get off the internet.

 

[JPineapple]

Love became irrelevant when Katie Grand started to put Kendall Jenner in every single issue. After that, their only relevant issues were Kim K by Klein, their 10th anniversary issue and probably their actual issue.

I don't know why he's complaining if the magazine is dead since five or six years ago.

 

[Benn98]

Pam boy literally just tweets out random industry gossip all day. He needs to get off the internet.

LOL, only his rumours never end up being true. The Burberry one certainly didn't.
If Anna is taking over Love she'll likely consult for them? Worst choice imo. She can't even run the type of magazines properly that are similar to Vogue. In fact, there are more fatalities on her watch, Lucky, Self, Glamour, W....

So far her only success is GQ.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Did he get sacked at Love already? He’s promoting a new magazine called perfect magazine.

 

[Benn98]

Did he get sacked at Love already? He’s promoting a new magazine called perfect magazine.

No way, . Would be so hilarious if true. Wasnt there talk of him taking over?

 

[tipi1355]

He left Love with Katie to work on her new project. The perfect whatever.

 

[KoV]

At least Diet Prada has a following. Pam whom?

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^He has Marc Jacobs (even invited to his wedding) and Katie Grand, that's more than enough to be considered in the fashion industry.