The Business of Magazines

[LoveFashion25]

Conde Nast need a fashionista- a knowledgeable authority in fashion who is also admired in the social sphere. Someone who will keep the Met Gala a subject of frenzy, someone who is loved by designers and fashion fanatics alike. Influencers come and go. A true force in fashion prevails.

But wouldn't you say fashionistas come and go as well? I think Conde Nest needs a business minded and fashion expert.

 

[LoveFashion25]

Influencers have no authority in fashion. Influencers don’t have access to the designers the way a major editor can, influencers don’t have influence over the strategy of a brand, influencers don’t have access to Bernard Arnault, François Pinault, Bruno Pavlosky.
Indeed, influencers are similar to magazines. But they aren’t BTS. The power and the influence are BTS, always...

The Anna era of Vogue is going to die because she will at some point Vogue but what is going on in the industry right now will not end. People are now adapting to the times.

Maybe what’s going on in the pages of Vogue will change for the better but don’t expect the industry to turn around just because Anna leaves.

During the peak of the lockdowns, people called for a revolution, a slower world, less consumption, less collections and stuff. The moment everybody opened it was back to normal...

Thank you. You are more knowledgable than I am. You are right influencers don't have power in fashion. I was just implying that they are a force right now. Anyways, I do think a change could happen. I'm more optimistic and I would love a new creative fashion expert to come a long and changed the industry. Its entirely possible. I don't believe in "never".

 

[Lola701]

But wouldn't you say fashionistas come and go as well? I think Conde Nest needs a business minded and fashion expert.

Ah this point the question is not what they need but what will they do to not completely loose their power to the people from the tech world.
How can the words « FASHION », « BEAUTY », « GLAMOUR » can co-exist in the world of « CONTENT », « DATA », « ENGAGEMENT »...

 

[LoveFashion25]

Ah this point the question is not what they need but what will they do to not completely loose their power to the people from the tech world.
How can the words « FASHION », « BEAUTY », « GLAMOUR » can co-exist in the world of « CONTENT », « DATA », « ENGAGEMENT »...

You really hit the nail on the head with that one. I wish I had an answer to that. Do you?

 

[Lola701]

You really hit the nail on the head with that one. I wish I had an answer to that. Do you?

I can pretend that I have that and we can all pretend that we have the answers but it doesn’t matter because we don’t make the decisions..
We’ll just see the CN saga continue...

 

[LoveFashion25]

I can pretend that I have that and we can all pretend that we have the answers but it doesn’t matter because we don’t make the decisions..
We’ll just see the CN saga continue...

I wouldn't be shocked if in this decade CN continues its demise...

 

[Xone]

Condé Nast is doomed but Anna is not the issue here.
It’s maybe our issue because we care about the artistic vision but IRL, the issue is more business related in a industry that is forced to change and adapt.

Anna Wintour remains not because her Vogue is fabulous but only because the model she has found for her Vogue to exist in this new era is the most efficient yet.

We are witnessing the end of magazines like we used to know. They have to reinvent themselves.
They won’t get rid of Anna now because Anna is still the Authority of fashion and from her public persona to what she had transformed the Met Gala into, she brings advertisers, celebrities and pushes for contents to be created to somehow make the Vogue brand relevant.

Of Course it’s obvious that Newhouse has a strategy to push Edward closer to the big job but I’m concerned in which strategy he has to maintain his group.

It’s both sad and telling to see how dependent of Anna they are...

Tbh i think what it worked before for her Vogue, right now it seems old and desperate, im sure she make them believe that they need her...and of course they do but CN last decisions that i assume was Anna's decisions seems clumsy and from an old point of view.....that in the end gonna destroy what's left. Know they are not gonna fire her, but at some point she is gonna leave so that's why they are preparing Edward....

 

[LoveFashion25]

Tbh i think what it worked before for her Vogue, right now it seems old and desperate, im sure she make them believe that they need her...and of course they do but CN last decisions that i assume was Anna's decisions seems clumsy and from an old point of view.....that in the end gonna destroy what's left. Know they are not gonna fire her, but at some point she is gonna leave so that's why they are preparing Edward....

Same. I already see them preparing Edward to take Anna's spot. Its very obvious. Anna is still an asset with the Met Gala but even her ideas and trying to latch to anything relevant is sad to see.

 

[vogue28]

It is indeed quite obvious that Edward Enninful will take over from Anna Wintour at American Vogue, once Wintour retires or even passes away while still holding the position. He's been groomed for the role since day one, just like Wintour herself once was while at British Vogue in the 80s.

I do often wonder who would take over from Enninful once all this comes our way. Katie Grand? Sarah Harris?

To be completely honest, given last week's rumors of Emmanuelle Alt departing Vogue Paris, my faith in the suits at Condé Nast making all these decisions with our beloved fashion magazines has been completely lost.

 

[thestylisha]

As much as I hate to admit it, we are very much driven by a cult of personality. So, as much as the future of fashion magazines needs to involve fashion/art experts, these same people need to inspire interest and enough buzz for the social events, like the Met Gala, that carry the remaining shreds of what fashion is today.

Everybody knows who Anna Wintour is. Her name alone is synonymous to Vogue. Her descendants need to follow this suit in being admirable, fashion experts, and in the way they dress, inspiring.

I love Sarah Harris; her name and her Instagram are loved by many. Conde Naste need all rounders, not just people who are business oriented.

 

[LastNight]

The more newsworthy Edward makes British Vogue, the more obvious it seems that CN will shift him over to the US edition at some point. They need a star editor to take over the helm, Edward is setting himself up for that perfectly. He’s managed to create a hype around UK Vogue unlike that of what most publications on newsstands today are able to pull off. Regardless of whether you enjoy what he’s putting out or not, he’s built something that celebrities/models/designers are clamouring to be in. Billie debuting her new look and era there was a big win, US Vogue hasn’t created anything buzzworthy like that in a long, long time. It feels like he has brought back the excitement and exclusivity of landing the cover - he’s made it a big deal again. I don’t love everything he’s done at all, but I can’t deny that he has managed to ignite something special during his editorship.

In the next 5 years I expect Anna will stand down from Vogue but remain at CN. Edward will move over to the US edition and Sarah Harris will take over British Vogue. I agree with others, she seems the most likely candidate. I expect it will be a quieter affair than what Edward is putting out now, but still decent. Rather like Emmanuelle stepping in after Carine’s epic reign - a solid publication but not as headline-making, it’ll probably be more like a modern version of Alexandra’s Vogue.

 

[LoveFashion25]

The more newsworthy Edward makes British Vogue, the more obvious it seems that CN will shift him over to the US edition at some point. They need a star editor to take over the helm, Edward is setting himself up for that perfectly. He’s managed to create a hype around UK Vogue unlike that of what most publications on newsstands today are able to pull off. Regardless of whether you enjoy what he’s putting out or not, he’s built something that celebrities/models/designers are clamouring to be in. Billie debuting her new look and era there was a big win, US Vogue hasn’t created anything buzzworthy like that in a long, long time. It feels like he has brought back the excitement and exclusivity of landing the cover - he’s made it a big deal again. I don’t love everything he’s done at all, but I can’t deny that he has managed to ignite something special during his editorship.

In the next 5 years I expect Anna will stand down from Vogue but remain at CN. Edward will move over to the US edition and Sarah Harris will take over British Vogue. I agree with others, she seems the most likely candidate. I expect it will be a quieter affair than what Edward is putting out now, but still decent. Rather like Emmanuelle stepping in after Carine’s epic reign - a solid publication but not as headline-making, it’ll probably be more like a modern version of Alexandra’s Vogue.

Would that make Edward powerful in the fashion industry if he moves to Vogue US?

 

[LastNight]

Would that make Edward powerful in the fashion industry if he moves to Vogue US?

Of course! He’d be the editor of the flagship edition of the most famous fashion magazine in the world. US Vogue doesn’t just require an editor, it requires a star. Not to say that an editor isn’t already a huge job, but running US Vogue is next level. They could go for someone like Amy Astley, who is the only other legitimate candidate I can think of. However, despite her experience, I think they’d want a splashier name to succeed Anna - even if it means there being yet another Brit at the helm

The combination of an icon like Anna as CN’s Artistic Director and Global Editorial Director, alongside Edward (with his rising star power and modern savvy) as the EIC of US Vogue would be pretty compelling. For all the doom and gloom and uncertainty around CN at the moment, it could be a really exciting time if they play it right.

 

[LoveFashion25]

Of course! He’d be the editor of the flagship edition of the most famous fashion magazine in the world. US Vogue doesn’t just require an editor, it requires a star. Not to say that an editor isn’t already a huge job, but running US Vogue is next level. They could go for someone like Amy Astley, who is the only other legitimate candidate I can think of. However, despite her experience, I think they’d want a splashier name to succeed Anna - even if it means there being yet another Brit at the helm

The combination of an icon like Anna as CN’s Artistic Director and Global Editorial Director, alongside Edward (with his rising star power and modern savvy) as the EIC of US Vogue would be pretty compelling. For all the doom and gloom and uncertainty around CN at the moment, it could be a really exciting time if they play it right.

I totally agree! US Vogue needs to be refreshed and I think Edward would be a great fit. Say what you want about his covers and pictorials, but he does create excitement and buzz that US Vogue has been missing for a long time.

What's going on with CN though? Why is it doom and gloom? Print industry is dying or close to dead. Is that why they are worried?

 

[8eight]

Both UK GQ and UK Vogue are £2 in my local store. Black stickers on both.

 

[LoveFashion25]

Both UK GQ and UK Vogue are £2 in my local store. Black stickers on both.

Its so weird to see Vogue at that price.

 

[Xone]

Both UK GQ and UK Vogue are £2 in my local store. Black stickers on both.

Maybe it's gonna increase sales who knows?.. They should try that with the other Vogue's. Vogue Italia cost 5 euro and C'mon it's not worth it. They offer luxury on their pages but in the end they want to reach the masses, so unless you don't make your magazine a little more "expensive" it's not necessary to charge that much specially when the page numbers are decreasing...

The business model needs to change and it has nothing to do with condensing editors and contents..

 

[vogue28]

A reduced price of British Vogue isn't new, and I even recall the odd issue under Alexandra Shulman coming with the £2 sticker attached. Nowadays, however, a reduced price issue of British Vogue has become far more frequent.

I was kinda bummed the April issue wasn't available at a reduced price, because I ended up paying full price (x4) to get all those Steven Meisel covers. Sod's law, as we call it here.

 

[tigerrouge]

It is indeed quite obvious that Edward Enninful will take over from Anna Wintour at American Vogue, once Wintour retires or even passes away while still holding the position. He's been groomed for the role since day one, just like Wintour herself once was while at British Vogue in the 80s..

It makes me wonder though - what happens if something happens with Edward? Conde Nast's business plan seems to involve stripping away a lot of their experienced staff and putting all their eggs in the one basket, so what's in place to cope with the unforeseen? Or is Anna Wintour going to be called on to direct things from the great beyond? There'd probably be plenty of money for spiritualist sessions but none to pay actual living staff.

Anyhow, this morning I see news stories saying that Harper's Bazaar Australia is going to be relaunched in September.

 

[vogue28]

Anyhow, this morning I see news stories saying that Harper's Bazaar Australia is going to be relaunched in September.

Best news I've read regarding magazines in a long, LONG time:

Harper’s Bazaar set to be relaunched in Australia

Global fashion bible Harper’s Bazaar is set to be relaunched into the Australian market as US media giant Hearst teams up with a new and much smaller partner to have the glossy back on local news-stands by September.

After being unceremoniously dumped by its former Australian partner, the German-based Bauer media a year ago, Hearst Magazines International has partnered with Switzer Media, a small custom-publishing outfit that also produces the cult fashion magazine Russh in a joint venture.

The debut issue of Harper’s Bazaar Australia, a special collector’s edition, will be on sale in September.

Launched in Australia during the early 1980s by the Fairfax group, the title was relaunched in 1998 by the Packer family’s Australian Consolidated Press group and published for nearly two decades. Harper’s Bazaar Australia established a market-leading position and loyal readership in Australia and New Zealand.

In July 2020, it became a victim of the shrinking print media business in Australia as Bauer fought to salvage its $500 million loss-making investment in Australian magazines when it bought ACP from the Packers in 2012.

Bauer sold out of the business months later, while Hearst has been busy trying to secure a new local partner to realise its ambitions for the historic high-end fashion title.

While key editorial positions have not yet been revealed, it is understood the magazine’s most recent editor-in-chief, Eugenie Kelly, is likely to be reinstalled.

Maureen Jordan, Switzer Media publisher, will lead sales, marketing and brand strategy for Harper’s Bazaar Australia.

She will also conduct the search for a number of key creative positions, including editor in chief of the brand.
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“To be appointed publisher of this 154-year-old iconic fashion bible is a great honour,” Jordan said.

“Bazaar has been missed by its loyal following in Australia in recent times and not only are we excited about its relaunch, we are passionate about collaborating with Hearst Magazines as we understand and redefine our readers’ expectations.”

The magazine has 30 editions around the world and is published in 22 languages.

SMH.COM.AU