The Business of Magazines

[Phuel]

^^^ Oh absolutely. The all-access to not just fashion content— but the invaluable access to international trends/attitudes/values is a godsend, when utilized effectively (… the day that I discovered so many Helmut Lang shows were uploaded online in their full, unedited and some with their original soundtrack, I spent the entire day watching them and it was so glorious). And therein lies the problem with these rags: They’re just absent-mindedly, passively copying, following what already exists… and charging for it. More than any other generations before it, this generation is one that has come of age to feel entitled to creative content without paying for it. And why would anyone blame them when the paid content is just ripped off everything that they’re used to getting for free? There’s nothing to aspire to, nothing inspiring anymore…And this is even before the entire rag is available digitally before the print is for sale.

Look at the Zara campaigns and its weekly creatives: They are relevant, accessible to the customer and still so elevated, so transcendent and absolutely taking the brand to another level. Or just look at ELLE Korea: It’s extremely youth-based, very co-ed with how many young men are cast for their covers and fashions stories, yet the productions are always more and above the brand of aesthetic that is found on SM. But of course, both these instances are headed by rock solid talents.

 

[Deleted member 116957]

It's fairly simple, social media and online presence became the first priority over the reader. As much as I'm grateful to live in the age of Internet and instant access, I often wonder how exciting it would've been to experience having to buy magazines in order to see what's inside.

I think this experience is why I've gone overboard lately buying vintage magazines. I've been sticking to ones that sell relatively cheap (Elle France, for example), but I just love seeing editorials I've *never* seen by photographers like Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Peter Knapp... like it's kind of exciting, to me? Especially, because they aren't plastered all over the internet like vintage Vogue Paris ones, too, they feel "new." I forgot what the *thrill* of that was like.

 

[MON]

Bye.. lol. He was never a fit for Vogue

 

[Rigida]

yup I think it's confirmed that Norman left Vogue Sg, his last issue will be Nov/Dec .. he just posted it on his insta

 

[NYLA22]

I think this experience is why I've gone overboard lately buying vintage magazines. I've been sticking to ones that sell relatively cheap (Elle France, for example), but I just love seeing editorials I've *never* seen by photographers like Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Peter Knapp... like it's kind of exciting, to me? Especially, because they aren't plastered all over the internet like vintage Vogue Paris ones, too, they feel "new." I forgot what the *thrill* of that was like.

I've been finding myself doing the exact same thing. eBay is my new "magazine subscription" service, where I find Tilberis-era Harper's Bazaar and old issues of Vogue. I'm so dismayed at how dreadful and banal magazines are these days.

And I ask myself this question a lot: Why do people seem to celebrate ugliness and mediocrity now? Why is glamour and sophistication considered "passe" ? Just look at the current, strange and dreadful Harper's Bazaar cover of Ratajkowski or Charlize before that, and compare it to the supreme elegance of a '90's Liz Tilberis cover. Do people actually prefer the hideous now over the beautiful? And if so, why? I can't wrap my head around it. (And to be clear, Ratajkowski and Charlize are beautiful, I'm talking about the styling and creative direction).

 

[axiomatic]

Under US Code, magazines publications have to submit circulation data to the postal service. Here's the data for Vogue's monthly average for the past year, from this month's magazine.

Total number of copies 1,260,726
Total not distributed 100,365
Paid outside the mail (newsstands, etc) 68,632
Mailed 979,061
Total paid 1,047,693

Free/nominal rate mailed 108,353
free outside the mail 4,313
Total free 112,688
% paid 90.29

Paid electronic copies 84,658

 

[nejtak]

This has probably been discussed before but I was ondering if there is someone with inside knowledge about whether the team behind a fashion spread in Vogue gets paid more if the editorial is reprinted, or simply used, across several editions?

I could imagine that the likes of models, hair and makeup have to sign something saying that it's okay for Vogue to use their images however they want but maybe photographers would get paid extra or have some sort of agreement every time their pictures are published? Like would Steven Meisel allow his editorials to run in Vogue Germany? I doubt that.

This question was inspired by Mariah Carey cashing in on All I Want for Christmas streams every year.

 

[crmsn]

I'm still baffled about Vogue Singapore's controversy. Can someone confirm if they'll cease their publication after 6 issues?

 

[caioherrero]

I'm still baffled about Vogue Singapore's controversy. Can someone confirm if they'll cease their publication after 6 issues?

What happened?

 

[Deleted member 116957]

I need to know, how well is Harper's Bazaar US selling with their drab, dismal covers? Does anyone have the numbers?

 

[marsnoop2]

This has probably been discussed before but I was ondering if there is someone with inside knowledge about whether the team behind a fashion spread in Vogue gets paid more if the editorial is reprinted, or simply used, across several editions?

I could imagine that the likes of models, hair and makeup have to sign something saying that it's okay for Vogue to use their images however they want but maybe photographers would get paid extra or have some sort of agreement every time their pictures are published? Like would Steven Meisel allow his editorials to run in Vogue Germany? I doubt that.

This question was inspired by Mariah Carey cashing in on All I Want for Christmas streams every year.

Absolutely not. I highly doubt anyone on the production team including the photographer (who would be the most important member) could negotiate those royalties. Remember, re-prints are a way to save money for the parent company. The team (model, hair stylists, makeup artists, photographers, etc.) do one day of work so they get paid for that one day. The owner of the images would be Conde Nast since they commissioned the work, and they are free to use them as often as they would like. Again, maybe Steven might be an exception but I can't see anyone else getting away with that.

 

[aracic]

Again, maybe Steven might be an exception but I can't see anyone else getting away with that.

He isn't. His editorial work is mostly British cover stories nowadays and cover stories aren't usually reprinted. Off the top of my head, the only reprints of his work that I'm aware of are the instance when UK and Italia shared Lady Gaga at the end of last year and the Marc Jacobs editorial which appeared in some editions.

 

[JPineapple]

He isn't. His editorial work is mostly British cover stories nowadays and cover stories aren't usually reprinted. Off the top of my head, the only reprints of his work that I'm aware of are the instance when UK and Italia shared Lady Gaga at the end of last year and the Marc Jacobs editorial which appeared in some editions.

Or maybe is because Edward doesn’t want to lose the exclusivity of his magazine. We’ve been seeing how he is killing the other Vogues giving them reprints for covers and almost all their content, Eugenie and the others may make creative decition but the final voice is him.

 

[Phuel]

I need to know, how well is Harper's Bazaar US selling with their drab, dismal covers? Does anyone have the numbers?

I have no official figures, but Samira’s Bazaar seems to be faring well enough with the general fashion consumer/reader. TFS is a rarified space and our (absolutely valid) criticisms do not reflect how the general fashion consumer and casual fashion fans— and that includes all the so-called influencers, view and digest fashion in all its incarnations; retail, publication, branding etc. Aside from print heaving its last tortured breath, this era has reached more average consumers than any other era with the aggressively inclusivity/diversity/representation marketing mantra all the while hustling such inferior products. Add to that Samira’s accessible/relatable/independent women sensibility, and it’s more of a hit than TFS would like to admit. (I’ll add that even the measly lesser publications and its teams we have here in our country are influenced by this sort of drab, generic product-shot aesthetic… Hard to hear and admit— but it’s the reality rather than the exception of this fashion era.)

To add to @marsnoop2's points that the work would be the sole ownership of the publisher and used amongst CN related material as contracted: I doubt such a corporation as CN would agree to royalty fees paid to their new photographer employees— especially these days when the legendary photographers are replaced by new lessers. In an era where students compete to pay for the opportunity to intern at high-profile corporations, these new photographers aren’t calling the shots LOL This “shared content” gimmick is strictly to the cost-cutting advantage of CN, and not some gesture of bringing fashion readers closer and/or giving global exposure to new representation blah blah blah as they would try to convince the sheep. (It’s all about them saving money— no different than retailers virtue-signal by eliminating any physical invoice/receipts/return paper labels with the claim of environmental-consciousness, only to send your product wrapped in layers of plastic and in plastic bags…)

 

[axiomatic]

Drake's mock Vogue cover draws lawsuit from Condé Nast

One of the world's most popular musicians faked a Vogue magazine cover as part of a joke to promote a new album. Condé Nast — Vogue's owner — didn't find it funny.

Driving the news: The publisher is suing rapper Drake and the album's co-artist 21 Savage for trademark infringement and counterfeiting over the faux issues that were distributed and displayed in various cities.

• It also cites other aspects of the campaign to promote the false covers as real, including posters and social media posts.
• The public relations firm that promoted the album, Hiltzik Strategies, is also named in the suit.

Catch up quick: Just as movie stars push their new films with elaborate press tours, artists do press interviews and appear on magazine covers to promote new music.

Yes, but: Drake and 21 Savage did not do that. In fact, they only pretended to with a fake interview that only seems like it was conducted by radio legend Howard Stern, a fake SNL appearance, and a fake Vogue cover.

The idea: Roll out their joint album, "Her Loss," by mocking the stereotypical way in which most artists go about promoting their album.

Be smart: When the rappers claimed they appeared on NPR's "Tiny Desk Concert" — with a clip of them on a copycat set — the outlet debunked it playfully. Stern praised the fake interview.

• But Condé Nast believes the campaign extends beyond what can reasonably be considered a harmless joke.

What we're hearing: A source told Axios that what drove Vogue to ultimately file a lawsuit was the extent to which the stunt may have caused real confusion for consumers.

• The fake campaign was so vast, mimicking Vogue’s logo, design and editorial features across so many different platforms, that it made it hard for Vogue to dismiss the entire effort as a one-off spoof campaign.
• What was particularly concerning was the fact that Drake and 21 Savage sold print magazines that were designed to look like real Vogue magazines to consumers that may not have realized they weren't paying for authentic Vogue products.

What's next: Condé Nast is demanding the rappers remove their social media posts referencing the fake issue, and take down any physical displays.

• They also want triple whatever the artists profit from sales of the album and the fake magazine, or $4 million in damages — whichever is greater.

 

[vogue28]

V Magazine announced the launch of V China yesterday via email:

A NEW ERA HAS BEGUN

V Magazine is thrilled to announce the birth of V China, the next frontier for the iconic New York magazine, originally launched in 1999. A unique and sophisticated blend of east and west, the new publication will be released as monthly issue each year, with each issue celebrating a global view of fashion and pop culture but through V Magazine’s revered editorial lens and voice.

This exciting venture comes on the heels of the original magazine’s established popularity in China as it stands, thus providing existing fans and readers with content in their own language, as well as with familiar Chinese brands and faces. As a magazine that’s always considered the sky the limit, this new activation only further opens the door to infinite possibilities, making way for soon-to-be iconic imagery, texts, and artwork.

 

[Bertrando3]

China is the only country in the world where magazines are thriving LOL.

 

[Xone]

Drake's mock Vogue cover draws lawsuit from Condé Nast

4 Millions? damn those Condenasty people are hungry....for money...

Drake knows how to market himself but also Anna...so lawsuit makes news headlines and draw attention to Vogue...in the end they will "reach an agreement"....all it's bs...

 

[tigerrouge]

I thought it was the start of a new business venture by Conde Nast, where a company could pay to get a run of customised issues produced for promotional distribution.

Not that the entire magazine isn't already a complicated ecosystem of advertisers driving the content, but this would mark a new era of being absolutely blatant that the front cover is for sale, and these days, for sale to anyone.

It would also reflect the reality that no-one cares about the content anymore, all anyone wants is to post the front cover on social media.

I'm surprised they haven't tried to sell subscribers the idea that having your name and address printed on the front of the magazine is a form of luxury specialisation, like getting your initials engraved on something.

 

[reesewu]

China is the only country in the world where magazines are thriving LOL.

It's probably because in terms of digital landscape, they blocked a lot of social media platforms? I mean, sure, they have their own versions of Youtube, Facebook, and Instagram but iirc they aren't as monopolistic as those behemoths. Hence the more stabilized media landscape where prints aren't bulldozed.