Miss Dalloway
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What a great read that was, especially loved the advice from Beatrix Miller.
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In the UK Vogue still outstrips Elle, selling 210,435 in the latest round of ABCs, compared with Elle's 195,192. But Candy says worldwide, Elle's 41 editions sell 6.2 million, more than Vogue's.
image source | manipulatormag.comThe Manipulator was the everything of its day Now here is the very definition of breathless anticipation ! The Manipulator, that legendary and seminal over-size publication ((70cm x 50cm) is slated for a June 2010 re-launch. Thriving from 1984-1994, The Manipulator completely redefined what magazines looked like and what they spoke about. The magazine identified a design obsessed, art driven niche market of readers long before that ideal went mass-market and its return is sure to create a stir among a new generation of magazine addicts. As print drifts closer and closer towards the fate of being a limited edition, high end, collectible experience, the return of The Manipulator could not be better timed. TI is first in line and I won't even look at the cost on that credit card slip. It' s that fabulous. See the archives at http://manipulatormag.com/
TEENS HAVE ONE LESS CHOICE: And then there were two: Hearst Magazines on Friday shuttered Cosmogirl magazine, the teen title it spun off from Cosmopolitan in 1999, with the December issue being the last. Many weren’t surprised to hear the news, given the title’s shrinking ad pages and flattening circulation, but were disappointed another magazine had exited from the teen market. In less than three years, Teen People, Elle Girl and Cosmogirl have folded, leaving Seventeen and Teen Vogue as the two stalwarts.
One of those disappointed was Cosmogirl’s founding editor Atoosa Rubenstein, who believed the magazine had gotten away from its roots as an alternative to its mainstream, high school sweetheart sister title Seventeen. “Cosmogirl was conceived as a magazine for edgy girls. This is a time for edgy ideas. It’s my belief that those girls will still be served, they’ll just be served in new, innovative ways other than a print publication,” she said. “I don’t think it’s the death of the girl, but the death of the magazine, and certainly the sign of the times.”
No longer involved with the magazine business after parting ways with Seventeen and having given birth two months ago to her own little girl, Angelika, “it’s like the closing of an era in my head.” Ironically, Rubenstein was said to be working on a teen-focused Internet project, Alpha Kitty, and a self-help book for teens, but shelved those projects to focus on her family.
Some media buyers attributed Cosmogirl’s closure to the shift in teen readership. “This is not about demographics anymore, it’s about behavior,” said Robin Steinberg, MediaVest senior vice president, director of print investment and activation. “The teen today is aspiring up to read the mothership or celebrity titles.” Steinberg mentioned the launch of Us Style, a quarterly fashion spin-off of Us Weekly slated to launch in April. “While targeted to a twentysomething, there is no doubt teens will be consuming this content,” she said. “Teens are not walking away from magazines, they are getting more sophisticated in title selection. They want something that speaks to them but doesn’t call them out in the title.”
Others, like Tina Wells, head of teen research firm Buzz Marketing Group, believed Hearst failed to convey what audience Cosmogirl was really serving. “Sometimes they marketed it as the tween book, the little sister to Seventeen, where I thought it was a strong pre-college, pre-Cosmopolitan magazine. If you read the book, you realized that it was for an older girl and that wasn’t translating well.” Stories in the November issue include “College Life Uncensored” and “The Art of the Co-Mance,” a story on dating a coworker — not exactly fodder for a 13 to 17 year old.
Through October, Cosmogirl had 527 ad pages, down 15.5 percent from last year. By contrast, Seventeen had 693 pages in that period, down 8.8 percent, and Teen Vogue had 919 pages, down 5.9 percent. Though its 1.4 million circulation remained relatively flat during the first half of 2008, newsstand sales fell 18 percent during that period, to an average of 302,800. In 2003, the magazine sold over 400,000 single copies a month.
Cosmogirl’s subscriber base will be folded into fellow Hearst title Seventeen. Editor in chief Susan Schulz will be “staying on at Hearst to work on special projects,” according to the company, and publisher Vicki Wellington will become the publisher of the new Food Network magazine, which appeared in the form of a test issue this month. The company declined to comment on how many other employees would be affected — the masthead lists 41 on the editorial side, two on the Web site, and about 33 on the business side — but said all would have an opportunity to interview within Hearst.
The Manipulator was the everything of its day...
>> W, Vogue Budget Cut Updates —Although it was rumored last week that W might be going bimonthly, the magazine's chairman and editorial director Patrick McCarthy says the cut in frequency won't be happening. Vogue, however, has supposedly started undergoing staffing cuts — on the business side. [The Cut, @FashionInformer]
//mediamemo.allthingsd.com/20091014/condes-cuts-come-to-vogue/
Condé's Cuts Come To Vogue
As expected, Condé Nast executives are swinging the layoff ax around the fabled magazine publisher. Today’s cuts are at Vogue, where I’m told at least six people have been let go from one of the company’s best-known titles. There will be more to come at the publisher, which shut down four magazines last week and is trying to bring down costs at its remaining titles by 25 percent. “Everybody’s tense and anxious here,” says a still-employed Condé Nast worker. “A terrible environment. We know the layoffs are coming but don’t know how many or when.”
Statement from Condé spokeswoman Maurie Perl:We announced last week when we closed the four titles that there would be companywide expense cost reductions and some workforce reductions in association with the 2010 budget process. These Vogue layoffs are part of that and we have no further comment on the subject.A reminder: Vogue’s September 2007 issue was supposedly the biggest in magazine history, and its production has been chronicled in a documentary you can see in theaters today. But Vogue’s September 2009 issue’s ad count was down more than 50 percent compared with the previous year.
Does Cathie Love Lucy?
The EIC of Harper's Bazaar UK may be headed to Hearst Tower...
Thursday, October 15, 2009
(NEW YORK) For everyone who thought that the action is hot only at Conde, we have another ivory tower that's under assault. Brit alert! Could Lucy Yeomans, editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar UK, be bringing her goldilocks touch to the American edition while doyenne editrix Glenda Bailey decamps to a splendid office on the executive floor? The buzzy Yeomans has allegedly been spotted at the Hearst Tower, and word on the street is that she is in "serious talks" to take over the title. Perhaps New York's Fashion Week wasn't the only reason she graced Gotham in September? The 38-year-old Yeomans has made plenty of news since she was named EIC at age 29. Piece by piece, she slowly transformed the once-staid society book Harpers & Queen to a formidable fashion title in stiff competition with British Vogue. Harper's Bazaar UK profits doubled in 2007, the year after she changed the title, and in that same year, Yeomans won the Editors' Editor award from the British Society of Magazine Editors.
For now, Yeomans lives in Notting Hill and is an aficionado of the cinema, art, literature, and playing piano. "She is the most blow-dried woman in magazines, according to competitors, a self-confessed clothes-horse who is always immaculately turned out," wrote James Robinson in an illuminating Guardian profile last year. "When Lucy Yeomans, the effusive editor-in-chief of the UK edition of Harper's Bazaar, takes her place in the front row at fashion shows in Milan or London, she turns almost as many heads as the models on the catwalk."
ASHLEY BAKER
Lucy Yeomans in 2007. © Getty Images
Lucy Yeomans with Antony Miles and Sophia Neophitou in New York during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. © BILLY FARRELL/PatrickMcMullan.com
CUTS CONTINUE: The layoffs at Condé Nast continue this week, with Glamour cutting about a dozen editorial staffers on Monday. Though the magazine did not specify how many staffers were let go or release names, several top-level staffers will leave, including deputy editors Ellen Seidman and Maryellen Gordon. Both were longtime editors at the women’s title — Gordon has been there for 10 years, while Seidman first worked for Glamour under Ruth Whitney, and later returned when Cindi Leive took over as editor in chief. The magazine’s production director, Paul Kramer, was also laid off. Glamour also cut seven staffers on the business side early this month.
Glamour’s staff reductions follow layoffs at Vanity Fair, W, Wired, Lucky, Golf Digest and Vogue that started almost two weeks ago as the company streamlines its workforce. The cuts also continued across the digital businesses — Style.com has laid off two contributors, including executive fashion director Candy Pratts Price, whose contract will not be renewed when it ends in spring 2010. Price is also a contributor to Vogue and vogue.com, and will likely make Vogue her primary outlet after her Style.com contract ends. Senior features editor Laird Borrelli-Peterson was also let go.
As widely reported, Condé Nast’s ad revenues have declined by a third this year, resulting in several rounds of cost cutting and the hiring of McKinsey & Co. The company shuttered Gourmet, Modern Bride, Elegant Bride and Cookie, leaving 180 staffers without positions, and editors and publishers at Condé Nast have been charged with trimming up to 25 percent of their budgets for 2010 through any means they choose, from eliminating positions to reducing T&E budgets.
Cuts this month at the individual magazines and within several corporate divisions of Condé Nast have increased the total number of employees that have left the company to about 250. But not every magazine has relied on staff reductions to help reach its 2010 budget targets. At Self, editor in chief Lucy Danziger gave up her car service for next year, beginning immediately. That said, while Self didn’t eliminate any positions on its edit side, it did reassign some staffers to a reduced work week, and it already had lost some midlevel editors to attrition beginning this summer. However, two recently hired promotions staffers on Self’s business side were let go on Friday.
Editor's Desk: Catherine Ostler, Tatler
07 October 2009
Esteemed fashion, travel, luxury and high-society magazine Tatler celebrates its 300th anniversary this issue.
Describe your magazine
Tatler covers heroes and heroines of modern society. It has also become recognised as an authority on travel, fashion and restaurants, as well as the host of some of the best parties of the year in London.
Who reads it?
The Tatler reader is educated, modern and sophisticated.
Who are your rivals and what does Tatler offer that others do not?
We occupy an unrivalled position. From a PR perspective we are often included alongside Harper’s Bazaar, despite it rebranding to be largely fashion-focused. Tatler offers much more than this.
You are celebrating your 300th anniversary. What can we expect?
I wanted this issue to tell the story of the magazine itself, from the time of Tatler’s founder Richard Steele to Tina Brown and right up to the present day.
Do you agree Tatler targets a ‘socialite’ audience?
Pigeonholing the magazine in this way is rather old-fashioned and less ambitious than we are in reality. Yes, some of the content is targeted at so-called ‘socialites’, but equally many of the people we cover, as well as those who read us, are at the heart of what is happening in the UK today, whether politically, economically or culturally.
Which celebrities work well for Tatler?
Whoever our readership is discussing. Recent covers have been Liz Hurley, Georgina Chapman, Eva Herzigova and Diane Kruger.
Describe Tatler’s relationship with PROs
We have regular contact, particularly across the fashion, beauty, travel and celebrity sectors­.
PR pet peeves
It annoys me if it is clear that they haven’t read the magazine or do not understand the readership.
Media must haves
The Times, Daily Mail, The Daily Telegraph, The Guardian, FT, The Economist, Vanity Fair and lots of Vogues.
Circulation figures 85,064 (ABCs, January-June 2009)
Editor's Desk: Jeremy Langmead, Esquire
14 October 2009
Aspirational mens magazine Esquire has been making headlines with its groundbreaking covers in recent months. Editor Jeremy Langmead explains the latest image to grace its cover.
Describe your magazine
Esquire is the modern man’s manual for a stylish life, whether that is culture, gadgets, fashion or fun.
Who reads it?
Men in their mid-thirties who are sophisticated, discerning, ambitious and busy. Professional men are proud to have Esquire on their desks.
Who are your rivals and what differentiates Esquire?
GQ is our main rival, but it is more mass market, whereas we are upmarket. GQ is the magazine for wannabes and we are for people who are already there.
Explain the hardback September issue and gold October cover
Most people have battened down the hatches, but I wanted to do something exciting. We collaborated with Ralph Lauren for the hardback Quentin Tarantino cover and Gucci for the gold Mark Ronson issue.
How did this issue’s four guest editors come about?
I told a white lie in my leader saying I got the guests in so I could go on holiday. It was simply men we admired. Ricky Gervais took over entertainment, Evan Davis did business, Nick Hornby was art and cultural editor and Rankin was in charge of visuals.
Which celebrities work well for Esquire?
They have to be strong characters who have achieved something, such as Barack Obama, Keith Richards and Tarantino.
Your products carry an aspirational price tag. Is this deliberate?
Some readers can afford the items and some can’t, but we are trying to mix high street with high end.
PR pet peeves
The PROs I work with are pretty extraordinary. But the pitches that do not excite me are ubiquitous anniversaries and limited editions.
Media must haves
I like newspaper supplements, particularly US ones, London Review of Books, online culture magazine Slate and BBC Radio 4’s Today programme. TV shows are great at the moment – Mad Men, True Blood, Gossip Girl.
Circulation 52,705 (ABCs, January-June 2009)
WEST COAST WORRIES: First Condé Nast begins cutting back on trips and hiring, and now Hearst Magazines is trying to trim its cost structure as the publishing industry retrenches in a shrinking economy. Insiders are buzzing that company president Cathie Black is going “floor by floor” at the Hearst Tower to trim costs — and staff positions — where possible. One title already affected is Harper’s Bazaar, which closed its Los Angeles and San Francisco sales offices on Tuesday and hired an outside firm to handle ad sales on the West Coast. The magazine also trimmed positions in its merchandising division last week. Though it was unclear how many staffers Harper’s Bazaar employed on the West Coast, a voice mail of Lisa Marie Costa, the magazine’s southwest director, said she no longer worked at the company. “Harper’s Bazaar has chosen to hire a firm to manage sales on the West Coast. We think it’s a smart decision — given that we’ve had growth in paging and share,” said a Harper’s Bazaar spokeswoman, adding that no sales jobs in New York were affected by the move.
Bazaar has fared better than most of its competition throughout the year. According to Media Industry Newsletter, ad page growth has been flat through November, totaling 1,859 pages. The magazine got a boost from publishing a special fashion issue, Runway Report, in September. But the steady page numbers aren’t protecting the title from cuts in the current economic environment. According to insiders, the magazine supposedly has a target to cut $1 million in expenses from its budget.
Insiders are also buzzing about additional job cuts across more titles at Hearst, which is already reeling from the closure of Cosmogirl earlier this month. Speculation includes cutbacks at O, The Oprah Magazine, with some believing management may fold its home spin-off, O at Home.