The Business of Magazines | Page 259 | the Fashion Spot

The Business of Magazines

Well, we all knew they've had money problems even before the pandemic started. But if one must be fair, CN should be able to access government aid. They're a business in trouble and contribute to the economy just like the entrepreneur and the corner chippy. Within reason, of course. But it will be an uphill battle to state their case. And I think it was rather underhand of Vanessa to mention the 'town cars and large allowances' which btw is not only an outdated claim because so many editors leaving have said on record that those are privileges of the past and the fact that most are going into more profitable industries tells you that there's no money in being EIC anymore. But I also find this as a brazen attack on fashion in general. Shame on NYT!

Bet Roger Lynch regrets getting into a bunfight with The Orange One because his people will do what they can to turn public opinion against a CN bailout. Then there's also the very public spat over Melania's Vogue cover and his tiring feud with Vanity Fair. I can see them keeping score over all of this.

Don't see it being much opposed in the UK but it really depends on how the tabloids will report on it. Italy is on the brink of another handout, for France to do it will just make Macron even more unpopular. The Germans are lucky because they have massive aid in place for the arts....

CN should just argue how much commerce they drive in all these countries!
 
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Coronavirus Poised to Be Worse for Advertising, Media Than Last Recession
Ad spend, tied directly to the state of the global economy, in the U.S. has already dropped by $80 billion, if not more.


The last recession was bad for advertising and media, but the economic fallout from the coronavirus is expected to be even worse.

In the decade since the recession of 2008 and 2009, the media world has become more used to digital operations and subscriptions to build up revenue. But most media entities are still too dependent on advertising to weather unscathed what is expected by analysts to be a drastic reduction by advertisers large and small in marketing spend. Be it online, in print or on TV.

“The Great Recession was a low point in the recorded history of advertising,” research firm eMarketer said in a note. “Total media ad spending declined for two straight years in the U.S. and digital ad spending even dropped in absolute terms in 2009, the only time that’s ever happened.”

Yet advertising and marketing executives are expecting the effects of the coronavirus to outstrip that previous low point. A survey of such executives by IAB with more than 400 respondents found 70 percent have already “adjusted or paused their planned ad spend” for the first half of the year. Another 16 percent are “still determining what actions to take.” Of those, 24 percent have pulled the entirety of their ad budgets. And among all respondents, about 75 percent expect the coronavirus downturn to be worse than the 2008-09 recession.

Already, IAB found that “digital ad spend is down 33 percent and traditional media is down 39 percent.” Last year, digital ad spend in the U.S. overall came in at $129 billion, leaving the decrease so far this year likely around $40 billion. Traditional advertising last year came in around $109 billion, so the loss there is likely around $40 billion as well.

The coronavirus was already expected to take a toll on global ad spending even a few weeks ago, with eMarketer projecting a decrease of $20 billion. Now the projection looks low as global lockdowns drag on, and well below what the more recent estimate from IAB show. Emarketer’s estimate was largely based on the effects of the coronavirus in China, and since then, the pandemic has caused lockdowns in most of Europe and the U.S.

EMarketer admitted that its ad spending forecast was finalized in early March, saying in a newer note that “events have unfolded rapidly since then — but with little clarity on how economic trends will shake out this year.” While its full ad spend forecast has not been updated to reflect the coronavirus, the firm is already estimating that search advertising, normally a stronghold of digital ad buying, alone will decrease in the first half of this year by between $6 billion and $8 billion.

“What happens after [coronavirus measures are lifted] depends on when ‘after’ is,” the firm added. “We hesitate to speculate about demand that is lost vs. pent up, for example, without having a better idea of how long the time period is [both indoors and with depressed income].”

On Friday, new U.S. government projections around the coronavirus showed that, should 30-day “stay at home” or lockdown orders be lifted soon, as President Trump has insisted, a new wave of the disease would come up. With lockdowns expected to continue into the foreseeable future, comparisons to the Great Depression are starting to come into conversation when financial experts discuss the economic effects of the pandemic, which has in just a few weeks brought much U.S. business to a halt and cost almost 17 million people and counting their jobs.

Kristalina Georgieva, managing director of The International Monetary Fund, which surveils the global economy, on Thursday said plainly in a podcast that “we anticipate the worst economic fallout since the Great Depression.” She added that, if the pandemic is fading by “the second half of the year,” and only then allowing for a “gradual lifting of containment measures” and a reopening of the world economy, there could be a “partial recovery.” But even that won’t start until mid-2021, if then.

“I stress there is tremendous uncertainty around the outlook,” Georgieva said. “It could get worse depending on many variable factors, including the duration of the pandemic.” She did not say it could get better.

Simply put, a global depression does not bode well for the media world at large and the advertising many outlets and operations get a vast majority of their revenue from.

Despite most forms of media, from online news to TV, seeing levels of consumption, readership and engagement they’ve not experienced in decades, if ever, as public appetite for information and entertainment soars, it is simply not translating to what would normally be a corresponding increase in ad sales. Already, close to 30,000 news workers, many in smaller markets at local papers, have lost their jobs because of coronavirus effects, according to counts by Poynter and The New York Times. But the perception of the media is improving, too, with Pew Research Center finding last week that 54 percent of Americans think media coverage of the pandemic is “excellent or good.”

Nevertheless, Moody’s Investor Service has repeatedly pointed to media and advertising as negatively exposed to the coronavirus effects, as its revenue is driven by advertising from non-food retail and automotive sectors. News worker union NewsGuild is now pushing for a stimulus package for the industry, telling the U.S. Congress on Thursday that the entirety of news operations “is seeing plummeting ad revenue created by business closures.”

Such reductions, although not entirely played out, as the world is only a couple of months into a coronavirus economy, reflect the positions of many company executives that make advertising decisions.

In addition to the IAB survey, in a late-March report, eMarketer found that all 200 ad and marketing executives it surveyed separately had in one form or another limited their advertising. Be it pulling a campaign that was already live, pausing all advertising outright, or cancelling a planned campaign entirely.

Even Google, which holds the largest share of the online ad market, is going to take a sizable hit. Rohit Kulkarni, an investment analyst at MKM Partners, is expecting the company’s ad revenue to drop by as much as 16 percent in 2020 and another 8 percent in 2021. During the last recession, Kulkarni said Google’s revenue fell by 15 percent over the course of two years, noting it was a much less diversified company then with YouTube and cloud services still a nascent part of the business. Still, today the search engine’s $135 billion ad business is at least 40 percent driven by sectors being hit hard by the coronavirus fallout, like traditional retail, restaurants, travel and auto.

“Global ad spend is highly correlated to global GDP growth,” Kulkarni said in a note. “We think online ad spend trends will have a higher [volatility] as it can be turned on or off quickly.”

During her podcast, Georgieva said the IMF is expecting 170 of its 189 member countries, including the U.S., “will experience negative per capita income growth this year.” She did not project growth, or a return to positive territory, for 2021.

For nearly all types of media companies, revenue from ads tends to be between 40 and 60 percent of a company’s total revenues.

Lifestyle and news publishing tends to be on the higher end of the range. Condé Nast, for instance, is a roughly $1 billion company that, after years of diversification efforts, still gets just over 60 percent of its revenue from print and web ads. The New York Times, which has already warned of an impending hit to the business from the coronavirus but has a strong digital subscription business (a move that came out of the last recession), is a roughly $1.8 billion company and about 30 percent advertising-based as of the end of 2019.

Even a major TV and film conglomerate like NBCUniversal gets about 40 percent of its revenue from ads. The company generates around $13 billion in ad revenue and last year counted $33 billion in revenue overall. Already this year, the company has taken a significant hit with the yearlong postponement of the 2020 Olympics, which it had sold over $1 billion in TV ad spots for. Whether the games actually happen next year is uncertain still, as Toshiro Muto, the head organizer of the games, admitted nothing was certain.

“I don’t think anyone would be able to say if this is going to be possible to get [the coronavirus] under control by next July or not,” Muto said in a press conference.

With the cancellation of all sports for the last two months, ones that could well affect the seasonal return of all sports leagues later this year, eMarketer warned that the impact on TV advertising could be severe, although it’s still working on projections. TV ad spend was expected to increase 2 percent in 2020, up from a decline of 2.5 percent last year.

“The biggest remaining unknown is whether the U.S. will enter a severe recession during or after the COVID-19 outbreak, and for how long,” eMarketer said in a note. “If an extended economic crisis plays out, and if a significant drawdown in consumer spending ensues, then many additional ad spending metrics will also have to be reassessed.”

source | wwd
 
Well, we all knew they've had money problems even before the pandemic started. But if one must be fair, CN should be able to access government aid. They're a business in trouble and contribute to the economy just like the entrepreneur and the corner chippy. Within reason, of course. But it will be an uphill battle to state their case. And I think it was rather underhand of Vanessa to mention the 'town cars and large allowances' which btw is not only an outdated claim because so many editors leaving have said on record that those are privileges of the past and the fact that most are going into more profitable industries tells you that there's no money in being EIC anymore. But I also find this as a brazen attack on fashion in general. Shame on NYT!

Bet Roger Lynch regrets getting into a bunfight with The Orange One because his people will do what they can to turn public opinion against a CN bailout. Then there's also the very public spat over Melania's Vogue cover and his tiring feud with Vanity Fair. I can see them keeping score over all of this.

Don't see it being much opposed in the UK but it really depends on how the tabloids will report on it. Italy is on the brink of another handout, for France to do it will just make Macron even more unpopular. The Germans are lucky because they have massive aid in place for the arts....

CN should just argue how much commerce they drive in all these countries!

No aid, no bailouts because we need more tax breaks for the rich.
More than 80 percent of the benefits of a tax change tucked into the coronavirus relief package Congress passed last month will go to those who earn more than $1 million annually, according to a report by a nonpartisan congressional body expected to be released Tuesday.
source | wapo

Also the $1,200 US Simulus Checks are just an advance on our 2020 tax returns.
We have to pay it back.
 
Harpers Bazaar US combining June/July/August issues all together due to content issues.
 
So Harper's Bazaar can do 6-page travel edits and book Lubomirski for 2 edits in the same issue, but they're the first to reduce frequency? I don't get it.
 
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Oh a three month issue is messy. However it instantly becomes a must have as it is indeed a collector’s item.
 
The New Normal for Fashion, Celebrity Shoots at Hearst Magazines
From photographers shooting their live-in model partners to A-listers applying their own makeup for cover shoots and there’s not an entourage or diamond in sight.


Back in mid-February, Hearst Magazines head of photo Alix Campbell was at Milk Studios in Chelsea overseeing a naked Dua Lipa, partially covered by a multicolored sequin guitar, pose for the cover of Elle’s just-released May issue. Around 18 people rushed around the set — a mix of stylists, hairdressers and makeup artists primping and preening the “One Kiss” singer, while others were tasked with making sure the lighting was perfect and the crew was well fed.

This may sound excessive to those outside the fashion world, but for a company that orchestrated Rihanna swimming with sharks and who found a giraffe that Demi Moore could feed on a beach at the whim of Harper’s Bazaar’s former editor in chief Glenda Bailey, the Dua Lipa shoot was considered a small production.

Little did Campbell know then, though, that shoots were about to get a whole lot smaller. Shortly after, as the coronavirus spread throughout the U.S., Hearst told staffers across titles including Elle, Marie Clare, Bazaar and Esquire to work from home, gatherings greater than 10 were banned and all nonessential businesses closed.

At that point, most of Hearst’s May issues had been tied up — at least on the photo side. But there was still a huge amount to do for the summer and fall issues, which meant Campbell had to quickly entirely rethink how Hearst conducted shoots (certainly there won’t be any Rihanna reclining in a shark’s mouth-esque productions in the near future), as well as to make sure they strike the right tone in the current climate.

For magazines focused on fantasy, the challenge will no doubt be to balance trying not to appear tone deaf during the COVID-19 crisis while still offering some escapism. For their part, upcoming Hearst magazines will feature COVID-19 content, including a portfolio on front line workers, but there will still also be the usual fashion, celebrity, entertainment and food content.

There have also been questions over whether magazines will keep to the print schedules, given advertising and production concerns, but to date Hearst hasn’t revealed any changes and is carrying out a number of shoots in novel ways. It’s understood, though, that it has contingency plans in place.

Here, Campbell explains how she and her 45-strong visual team, who are responsible for photography across all of Hearst’s titles, have been engineering fashion and celebrity shoots during quarantine.

Photographers With Live-in Model Partners are in High Demand

Just a few weeks ago, the name and pedigree of a photographer was the most important factor for a magazine. Now you’re hot property depending on who you cohabitate with. Hearst has found a number of photographers who have a model partner they can shoot in the safety of their own homes, while those with chef spouses have also come in handy for the likes of Good Housekeeping. In most cases, they’ve styled everything themselves with a Hearst rep directing over Zoom. “We’ve been very very fortunate to find all these little pockets of photographers around the country that are sort of self-contained and can produce a photoshoot with bare bones,” said Campbell.

In some instances, they even have their own studio at home. “Obviously it’s not like shooting at Milk or Pier 59, but just a safe space where they can shoot so we’ve been doing things like that.”

It’s Harder for Fashion Magazines Than Lifestyle

While for Good Housekeeping, Campbell can find chefs who live with photographers to make food, it’s been harder for the fashion titles, which need fresh runway looks. “We can do the things that lifestyle brands need to generate the content. The fashion titles are the ones that are a bit more of a struggle right now just because of the accessibility to the clothing,” she said. They have managed to get some items, though, with Elle editor in chief Nina Garcia and the Bazaar fashion team pulling strings, she added.

From Eight Trunks to One

At a shoot like the one held in February for Dua Lipa, around eight trunks of clothes would have arrived on set at Milk Studios despite the fact that she didn’t even wear anything in one of the covers. Now, stylists and photographers have to make do with just one because of the difficulty of obtaining clothing. “Everything that’s in that edit is thoughtful and makes sense together and we’re able to get by. The quality is the same, the quantity is less,” said Campbell.

Don’t Touch the Clothes

Any photographers, models or stylists receiving the aforementioned one trunk of clothes or accessories is under strict instructions not to open any packages for three days to let “all those germs disappear.” “That’s the most important thing. We’re not at all being frivolous with photo shoots. We’re only doing them when we feel its 100 percent safe.”

No Diamonds on Set

While it has been easier for Hearst to obtain accessories like sunglasses and jewelry, diamonds have become a big no-no. “Usually when we have a photo shoot you get all this jewelry from Tiffany and Cartier and with the jewelry comes the jewelry guard. So there are all these things now and it’s like ‘oh right, we can’t have the diamonds on set’,” said Campbell. “Even if we can get the diamonds we can’t have the diamonds because we can’t have the jewelry guard there because that’s an extra person.”

Leave the Entourage Behind

A-listers are notorious for being accompanied by a large entourage, especially at shoots. But at a recent cover shoot for Esquire’s summer issue in Los Angeles, there was only a movie star and his family friend, who happened to be a photographer. After quarantining separately for two weeks, they met at a sanitized location and got to work. “You would never know there wasn’t a crew of 20 people there when you see the pictures and it was literally two people.”

Virtual Makeup Tutorials for A-list Cover Stars

When it comes to a cover shoot for a female celebrity, highly sought after makeup artists and hairdressers usually bring their own teams along. This particular celebrity (Hearst also wouldn’t reveal her name) is doing her own makeup for an upcoming cover shoot. “Where she is right now she doesn’t have a closet full of makeup and hair products. She just has what she wears on a daily basis. We’re having the hair and makeup people talk to her about what she can do herself and again we collaborated with her about ideally what the mood of the hair and makeup will be,” said Campbell. “They’re talking her through how to do it and what products she needs and then we’re going directly to the companies like MAC or Milk makeup or whatever it is and they’re sending her the products directly that will then of course be sanitized.”

Safety First

Campbell has pulled the plug on a few planned shoots that she didn’t feel were “100 percent kosher.” “There was just something about the scenario that made me a little uncomfortable so I said we need to pull the plug on this one. We have guidelines that we go through.”

No Citibike, no Taxi, no Uber

For when people need to travel to shoots, she also doesn’t want anyone taking public transport. “In L.A. they’ll drive their own [car]. If they’re in New York they’ll have to ride their own bike or walk, but there’s no other way that we’re allowing it to happen.”

source | wwd
 
I just noticed that Elle Finland was closed in February, with March issue being their last. The magazine was started in 2008, by the way. They did a nice trip down the memory lane on their Instagram.
 
I just noticed that Elle Finland was closed in February, with March issue being their last. The magazine was started in 2008, by the way. They did a nice trip down the memory lane on their Instagram.

Same thing with Cosmopolitan Finland. March issue was their last one, too. Both Elle and Cosmopolitan were published by Fokus Media Finland.
 
Next issue of Vogue Poland is coming out on April 28th and it will be their May/June issue (April issue came out on March 12th) due to the epidemics, of course. Source: Instagram.
 
I saw today and posted in another thread about Vogue Portugal who still sell their back issues from as far back as October 2017 on their website. I think it’s a very interesting concept to sell back issues and it’s also a very forward thinking idea during these times, because it will generate more sales for the magazine using issues that they must have extra stock left over of. I wonder if other magazines will also pick up on this idea and start selling their back issue stock to generate income for their future issues.
 
OMG you guys you need to watch the YouTube series '' | No Filter with Naomi '' today's episode with Anna Wintour was amazinggg!!! I loved it, that's THE Anna I am always rooting for (not the one who makes bad cover decisions ahaha), it was a very lovely talk between these two icons. Oh and the talks with Cindy Crawford and Christy Turlington were Wow :heart: ahaha :lol:.

 
I saw today and posted in another thread about Vogue Portugal who still sell their back issues from as far back as October 2017 on their website. I think it’s a very interesting concept to sell back issues and it’s also a very forward thinking idea during these times, because it will generate more sales for the magazine using issues that they must have extra stock left over of. I wonder if other magazines will also pick up on this idea and start selling their back issue stock to generate income for their future issues.

Exact Editions sell all their digital subscriptions like that! When you buy a subscription, you also get access to the magazine's entire history. They mostly have indies on the list, Arena Homme, Pop, Dazed, Another & Another Man, Violet, Hunger, and so forth. An annual subscription to Pop (including new releases and archive access!) sells for £10.
And when I used to subscribe to Press Reader they also kept back issues on hand for you to browse, but it would generally start when the magazine joined the platform.
 
I saw today and posted in another thread about Vogue Portugal who still sell their back issues from as far back as October 2017 on their website. I think it’s a very interesting concept to sell back issues and it’s also a very forward thinking idea during these times, because it will generate more sales for the magazine using issues that they must have extra stock left over of. I wonder if other magazines will also pick up on this idea and start selling their back issue stock to generate income for their future issues.
I hope every vogue magazine edition selling their back issue for digital edition or print version... right now i really want to see vogue korea and czechoslovakia
 
Exact Editions sell all their digital subscriptions like that! When you buy a subscription, you also get access to the magazine's entire history. They mostly have indies on the list, Arena Homme, Pop, Dazed, Another & Another Man, Violet, Hunger, and so forth. An annual subscription to Pop (including new releases and archive access!) sells for £10.
And when I used to subscribe to Press Reader they also kept back issues on hand for you to browse, but it would generally start when the magazine joined the platform.
Where can i check their back issue for pop and arena home magazine on their website? I only seen their recent issue
 

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