Interview
'Oh my God, I’ve handcuffed myself!’
She is an actress, a designer and a fashion icon. Luke Crisell meets the very private
Mary - Kate Olsen to discover what influences her unique sense of style
The second-oldest cemetery in Manhattan is a small, well-maintained affair: the names of those interred here are inscribed on tablets lining the walls. Hazelnut trees dot the lawn. Once an undistinguished plot of land on the Lower East Side, the graveyard now abuts the tiled patio of a boutique hotel where Mary - Kate Olsen has decided we should meet. ‘I remember this place used to be so cool,’ she says, raising her eyes to the cloudless sky. ‘But then they started letting everyone come here.’ She goes to take a third cigarette from the Marlboro Red packet on the table but it’s empty. She shakes it, clearly frustrated, and picks up the butt of the last one, which seems to placate her. ‘Somebody actually threatened to throw a drink in my face not too long ago when I was sitting here with two friends. It was some drunk guy who had been here since noon.’
However over-populated the hotel might be in the evening, now, at the beginning of a soporific afternoon, we’re alone. The patio is tranquil and Olsen, curled up in the middle of a wicker couch, is serene, her dramatic features partially obscured by the John Lennon-style
sunglasses that cover half her face. In her current outfit, she vaguely resembles a pirate, albeit a very small one.
Mary - Kate could probably fit a few close friends inside her orange vintage flannel shirt, open to the navel and which, on her barely five-foot frame, seems almost Brobdingnagian. The sheer quantity of precious metals she is wearing would be preposterous on anyone else. Around her neck are four
necklaces; on her tiny hands are five huge
rings (one of which opens like a locket to reveal a skull being strangled by a gold serpent); and around her wrists and up her arms are about 30
bracelets and bangles, which, at one point become entangled. (‘Oh my God, I’ve handcuffed myself!’ she says, laughing.) The outfit is rounded off by black suede Pedro Garcia heels and black Kova&T leggings. ‘I’ve actually been wearing this for about the past 10 days,’ she says, laughing, the jewellery jingling gently on her arms. ‘It’s natural for me to throw on whatever I’m going to wear and not think twice about it.’
Mary - Kate has an innate sense of style
Olsen has been in the spotlight since she was nine months old, when she and her twin sister
Ashley played the role of Michelle Tanner on US sitcom Full House. By the time the series ended, when they were nine, the pair were reportedly earning $150,000 per episode, and their entertainment company, Dualstar, run by legendarily astute lawyer Robert Thorne, was going from strength to strength. When they turned 18, the sisters took control of the corporation, which was reportedly making hundreds of millions of dollars a year (as a privately held business, it does not release figures) by marketing their impeccable image in every conceivable way. ‘We spent all of our childhood and teen life, I guess, doing things for our fan base and catering to them,’ says Mary - Kate. From music videos to albums, games to books, dolls to cosmetics,
accessories to straight-to-video films (no less than 45 of them), rugs to lamps, to perfumes to toothpaste – the Dualstar umbrella reaches across the world, and, as co-presidents, Mary - Kate and Ashley oversee and approve every aspect of the company and its many licensing deals.
But in the past few years, Mary - Kate has transformed herself – she’s no longer just a fraction of Mary - Kate and Ashley. In fact, that decidedly tween image – all straight-ironed hair and perma-smiles – couldn’t be further from the Mary - Kate sitting in front of me today, whose wavy locks fall haphazardly around her face and in whose hand a cigarette is seemingly always smouldering. The smile’s still there, though, only it’s more relaxed now. Here, after all, is a woman who has managed to take control of her own image, wresting it away with relative ease from the ‘child star’ tag under which some actors labour for so long.
As insouciant as she claims to be about her personal style (‘I don’t think I will ever be able to wrap my head around why people write about it,’ she says), Olsen’s slightly eccentric, utterly unique, often polarising sense of style has elevated the 22-year-old star into the highest echelons of the fashion world. In recent years, she has earned her place alongside the likes of Chloë Sevigny and Sienna Miller, and has made an impression on some of fashion’s most influential names.
Karl Lagerfeld has said of her, ‘I love a tiny woman in
Chanel. Coco herself was tiny, so you don’t need to be a giant to look good in these [designs]. I like the way Mary - Kate is mixing
Chanel with other things. Life is not a fashion show, and I find a total designer look boring.’
This innate style has seen Olsen elevated to icon status – in the eyes of designers as well as fans.
Margherita Missoni says, ‘When I’m asked to name a contemporary icon, I always say that is a contradition in terms because the iconic status is created by posterity. Mary - Kate is a rare exception to my rule. With her, you already know that future generations will look at her as an icon.’
Giambattista Valli agrees. ‘Mary - Kate has an innate sense of style that follows no rules. Her personal style surpasses
fashion. I’d like to design a couture gown for her that she can wear then cut into a minidress or a fantastic sleeping bag.’