Yves Saint Laurent . YSL Multimedia

Luxmode, I think there are newsreels of early shows on the DVD _Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times_, which comes as a companion disc to _5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris_.

Both for $18.99 on Amazon! Wow, I 've been meaning to get this! Didn't know it was so low cost. :woot:

http://www.amazon.com/Yves-Saint-Laurent-Avenue-Marceau/dp/B0006SSO36

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luxmode said:
Thanks so much for this thread. :flower: That first video you posted is so, so good. Are there anymore newsreels from the his early days around?
 
Claude Azoulay photograph (younggalleryphoto.com)

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1960's YSL in Vogue (apostos.com)


 

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The Legacy of St. Laurent
(The Connection with Dick Gordon—WBUR Boston)

Even the man's initials speak of fame and fashion. YSL. At age 65, the Paris based fashion designer Yves St. Laurent is saying "ca suffit," that's enough. Later this month, 40 years since his first show as the enfant terrible of haute couture, he'll show his last collection. Some in the catty world of fashion say his creativity retired years ago. But others say his legacy will last long after today's designers are forgotten, because he understands what women want: to be sexy and powerful and wear the pants from time to time. It's hard to remember when pants suits weren't chic. Yves St. Laurent made them so. He also gave women the trench coat, the safari look and the see through blouse. Clothes that changed the way we see each other.

WITH:

Hamish Bowles, European editor-at-large for American Vogue Magazine

Valerie Steele, author of "The Corset: A Cultural History" and chief curator for the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology

and Nan Kempner, a collector of Yves St. Laurent's designs.


*****

http://www.theconnection.org/shows/2002/01/20020111_b_main.asp
 
Nan Kempner's "Honey Bee" (metmuseum.org)

Among the most notable pieces in Mrs. Kempner's collection of haute couture is the evening domino by Yves Saint Laurent. In a direct reference to the voluminous evening coats from the golden age of postwar Parisian style, the Saint Laurent version in heavy silk faille merges the sumptuous romanticism of Christian Dior with the sculptural drama of Cristobal Balenciaga.

Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, autumn/winter 1983–84
Cape: yellow silk faille; gown: black silk velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.51a, b)


 

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Nan's other YSL (metmuseum.org)

Mrs. Kempner's silhouette of preference for formal evening dress was the narrow "column" gown. In addition, she subscribed to the notion of bareness as an aspect of nighttime glamour. Sometimes, this was expressed in a wide, off-the-shoulder or "bateau" design, but more typically it was seen in her advocacy of a plunging front or back neckline. In this gown of elegant simplicity, Mrs. Kempner has selected a dress that inverts her usual pairing of a white bodice or shirt with a black skirt. Yves Saint Laurent's sensual juxtaposition of a black velvet bodice with the liquid drape of ivory silk crepe serves to highlight the sharp "V" of her décolleté in a dramatic "Madame X" contrast.

Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, autumn/winter 1982–83
Bodice: black silk velvet; skirt: ivory silk crepe
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.43a, b)

 

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Sargent's Madame X:
 

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(metmuseum.org)

In the early 1980s, when Diana Vreeland sought to represent the best of contemporary haute couture in the galleries of The Costume Institute, she selected Yves Saint Laurent as the focus of her groundbreaking exhibition on the work of a living designer. As a master of the traditions of haute couture, Saint Laurent simply had no equal. For many women of elegance, including Mrs. Kempner, the Saint Laurent style for a time surpassed all others as a source of unwaveringly elegant and technically refined clothes for day and night. In a period of more than 40 years, Mrs. Kempner acquired almost 600 examples of this master's work. Although she clearly had an affinity for Saint Laurent's man-tailored designs, especially "Le Smoking"—his version of a tuxedo for women—and his pantsuits, she was equally seduced by his sensuous evening dresses. Saint Laurent's mastery of drapery is evident in Mrs. Kempner's choices, whether in chiffon, satin, or silk crepe. Her gowns also represent the designer's famously sensitive yet audacious use of color. The Saint Laurent palette has been compared to the vivid hues of a Matisse painting or the set designs for a Diaghilev ballet, but they are, on closer study, distinctly the designer's own.


Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, spring/summer 1989
Gown: green and olive silk georgette; cape: blue silk georgette
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.48a, b)


 

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(metmuseum.org)

Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Ensemble, spring/summer 1989
Jacket: beige raw silk rep weave with lacquered shell, gold metal, and rhinestone buttons; dress: bronze silk georgette
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.52a–c)


 

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(metmuseum.org)

Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936)
Evening Ensemble, autumn/winter 1972–73
Jacket: green silk twill with gold, green, and red paillette, bugle bead, and seed bead embroidery; camisole: red silk chiffon; pants: black wool twill and black silk satin; belt: gold metal, faux pearl and emerald cabochons
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.71a–c)


 

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Not YSL, but part of Nan's collection (metmuseum.org:(

Although Mrs. Kempner's collection reveals a strong loyalty to Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Oscar de la Renta, in the 1960s and 1970s she was enthralled by the work of Madame Grès. In the October 10, 1979, edition of The New York Times she noted, "I have Grès dresses going back twenty years. I use them like a library." Mrs. Kempner's number of Grès pieces, small relative to her other favored designers, nonetheless comprise a survey of Mme. Grès's best efforts. Pleated silk jerseys such as these two examples document the most iconic styles, but alpaca jersey examples and an innovative silk crepe model on view in the exhibition represent lesser known modes.

Madame Grès (French, 1903–1993)
Evening Gowns, 1971 (left); 1969 (right)
White pleated silk jersey; Bordeaux pleated silk jersey
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.6; 2006.420.5)


 

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(metmuseum.org)

Unlike Saint Laurent, who flirted with androgynous and subtly transgressive effects, Valentino prefers an elegance that is consistently inflected by an alluring prettiness. A designer whose work is notable for its advocacy of the unambiguously feminine, Valentino addresses Mrs. Kempner's requirements for comfort and glamour with this pleated evening gown in the designer's signature color, the brilliant Valentino red. Executed in silk chiffon, this gown is an example of the Valentino atelier's unsurpassed skill in working with a fragile and particularly difficult fabric. The gown sheathes the body while the fullness of the skirt suggests an airiness and freedom of movement. Mrs. Kempner met Valentino when he was an assistant to Jean Dessès, a designer noted for his virtuosity with draped effects. To this day, his rigorous early apprenticeship with Dessès informs Valentino's work.


Valentino (Italian, b. 1932)
Evening Gown, 1984
Red with white pin dotted silk chiffon
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Gift of Mr. Thomas L. Kempner, 2006 (2006.420.93)


 

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Some more of Nan's "Honey Bee" (gettyimages.com)

PARIS, FRANCE: Former top model Carla Bruni presents a creation for French designer Yves Saint Laurent, 22 January 2002, during the retrospective part of Saint Laurent's last ever show at the Centre Georges Pompidou art gallery in Paris. Hours before unveiling his last ever collection, innovative designer Yves Saint Laurent said his love affair with women was not over and hinted he had other cards up his sleeve. AFP PHOTO PIERRE VERDY

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A thousand thanks, Tylw.
Hail le Saint!
His 70's Rive gauche collections are my favorites(as they are for M. Jacobs seemingly).
I'll see what I can rummage up.
 
Wonderful Wonderful. Thank you so much!!

I love that Frock site.

and I need to get those DVDs.
 

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