1920s : Fashions of a Roaring Decade

[lotusgreen]

fabulous

 

[DosViolines]

Two Chiffon Dresses
1920s
The first of black chiffon overlaying gold lame, with dropped waist and gathered skirt, the skirt bottom worked with wide band of folkoric floral wool or cotton embroidery, with metallic coil trim at bottom, similar work at neckline, labeled: Maison Maurice/ Importers/At 52nd St./New York, the second a sea green chiffon chemise with white bead and chenille dot embroidery

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[DosViolines]

Black Chiffon Beaded Chemise Dress
Probably French, 1920s
The bodice with low V decolletage sewn with a cape-like overpiece beaded in scallop pattern, the skirt with multiple scalloped tiers similarly beaded, solidly beaded front ties at low waist

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[DosViolines]

Ivory Satin Court Dress and Train
1920s
The sleeveless chemise with low round neck worked with allover pattern of flowers, with central long-stemmed blossom, worked in pearls, rhinestones and gold beads, fur at lower back hem and sides, with long beaded ivory velvet shoulder train

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[DosViolines]

Ivory Satin Evening or Wedding Dress
French, late 1920s
The satin worked with embroidered and beaded medallions, sleeveless, chiffon bodice top outlined with rhinestones at low front and back V, full peplum sewn at dropped waist, the back descending to train

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[DosViolines]

Two Beaded Party Frocks
American, 1920s
The first pink chiffon shading to lime green at scalloped hem, with dropped waist, short gathered skirt, sewn allover with rows of silver bugle beads, and further embellished with swirling motifs worked in silver paillettes at hem and bodice front, the next gold lame worked allover with pink beads, red stone accents, separate lame camisole, salmon chiffon lining

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[DosViolines]

Iridescent Sequined Chemise Dress
1920s
Sleeveless, with round neck, of black net embroidered at top and bottom with black sequins in swirl motif, the center and sides worked with shaped bands of overlapping iridescent sequins, the side bands dipping below hem and further trimmed with black sequined loops

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[DosViolines]

Seed Pearl Swirl Chemise Dress
Possibly Lanvin, French, 1920s
Two-piece, white chiffon sewn allover with rows of seed pearls forming scrolling design, the pattern further accentuated with tendril-like lines of rhinestones, the top sleeveless with V-neck, the skirt with pointed hemline dipping lower at back

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[DosViolines]

Couture Clown Costume
French, 1920s
One piece, of green satin, with low waist and wide curved panier hip line sewn with side pockets, the sides tapering to mid-calf legs, the front bodice applied with large smiling but sinister gold lame clown head with hand colored features outlined with purple cord, the ovoid eyes of wood covered with hand painted satin, the corresponding area at back applied with brown tinted plush 'hair' and long pigtail, the overall body front and back decorated with pink and gold lame appliques of abstract biomorphic forms, flowerheads and starfish, all outlined with couched gold and silk threads, and surrounded by fields of silver and blue sequins in vermiculate pattern.

The costume was commissioned in Paris at a couture establishment, possibly Lanvin, by the vice council to the Netherlands in France to wear as Master of Ceremonies for a charity circus held in Lille, where he resided. Subsequently, he decided to wear the costume as a spoof to a formal dinner party given by English relatives at their country estate, where it was de rigueur to 'dress for dinner.' He wanted to teach his stuffy, as he saw them, English relatives a lesson in Gallic joie de vivre. To his chagrin, the reserved English character held sway, and none of the assembled company reacted or commented on his attire. He spent a long evening feeling conspicuous, but used the story for years after to teach his children a lesson in humility.

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[DosViolines]

Gold Embroidered Art Deco Dress
French, circa 1925
The sleeveless chemise with allover gold tambour embroidery depicting a pastiche of Asian and European motifs, including Egyptian palms, Chinese cranes, grape clusters, wave forms, and a geometric scallop pattern at hem and forming deep V on bodice back, front side slits

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[DosViolines]

Gold Lame Chinoiserie Ensemble
French, circa 1925
Comprising a cape with large square mink collar, lavishly decorated with red pagodas and white flowering trees worked in red and gold bugle beads, rhinestones and pearls, the hem trimmed with long hot pink beaded fringe; tubular chemise dress with bottom band of pearls and beads; and an overskirt of five panels embroidered with flowers and leaves in like materials.

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[DosViolines]

Chinoiserie Beaded Chemise
American, 1920s
With full elbow length sleeves, sea green band trim, of black chiffon worked allover with various Oriental motifs, including mountains, meandering streams, flowering trees, and an large central phoenix in gold metallic and pearlescent bugle beads

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[DosViolines]

Teal Silk Velvet Evening Coat
1920s
Knee length, the hem curving upward to front, with ruched padded collar, and tiered sleeve cuffs, sable hemline trim, labeled: William Hardy, Inc./50 West 57th Street/New York.

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[DosViolines]

Tan and Gold Art Deco Lame Coat
French, 1920s
Cardigan style, woven with striated block pattern in various brown tones, camel colored velvet lining revealed at turned back collar

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[DosViolines]

Black Velvet Cut Steel Beaded Chemise Dress
Probably French, mid 1920s
Sleeveless, with dropped waist, slightly gathered skirt, worked allover with cut steel beads forming triangular foliate motives in graduated sizes

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[DosViolines]

Black Velvet Chemise Dress
American, 1920s
Sleeveless, with high round neck, low waist defined by beaded band, the bodice edges and overall skirt sewn with crystal beads arranged in stylized floral and geometric patterns

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[DosViolines]

Raspberry Velvet Chemise Dress
1920s
Sleeveless, with low waist accented with side drapery, the surface ornamented with overall floral pattern embroidery worked in iridescent pink beads, back half rope belt

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[DosViolines]

Black Satin Evening Coat
French or English, 1920s
Cardigan style, applied allover with widely spaced sparkling abstract tulip forms, with dense concentration at shaped hemline and exterior of standup collar, the brick orange silk lining revealed at interior of collar, labeled: W.W.Reville-Terry Ltd. 50 Grosvenor Street.

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[DosViolines]

Art Deco Ombre Velvet Cape
French, 1920s
Voided velvet, with geometric design worked in gilt-metal threads, gradually shaded from grass green at top to black at hem.

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[DosViolines]

Lanvin Shimmering Silver Beaded Chemise
1929
Two-piece, sewn overall with minute silver bugle beads, the skirt woven with signature pink tied bow and streamers, the beadwork of the separate V-neck bodice sewn at edges at various angles to create a band effect, size 8, labeled: Jeanne Lanvin/Paris/Ete 1929, no.22131.

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