1920s : Fashions of a Roaring Decade

[PonyShow]

i love all the beauty pageants!

 

[DosViolines]

Guipure Tape Lace Coat
European, circa 1920s
Ecru cotton tape with three fillings within the tape, medallions scattered around the border trim

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Lady's Striped Metallic Brocade Deshabille
French, 1920s
In the Moroccan style, trefoil edging outlined with metallic embroidery throughout, sleeves open at underarm seam to the elbow, convex flap slash pockets either side of waist, the brocade in soft caramel ground with small pink and French blue florettes, lined in peach crepe backed satin

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Navy and Ecru Floral Print Tea Dress
Attributed to Poiret, circa 1923
Pink silk crepe de chine chemise underdress with creme chiffon front panel, collar and cuffs accented with ruffled Valenciennes lace, the overdress of a graphic Deco print probably by Raoul Dufy edged with loose navy and pink moire ribbon becoming streamers at low belt of same, sewn bow at centre

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Patterned Velvet Cocoon Evening Coat
French, circa 1920
Two-tone dove brown/gray with overall floral and vine shadow pattern, diagonal side closure with large loops and buttons, large collar, purple silk lining

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Black Chiffon and Rhinestone Chemise Dress
Probably French, circa 1926
Straight line, the bodice cut out in curved strips ending in shield shapes at bust, encrusted with rhinestones and beads, long center floating panel at back

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Two Chemise Dresses
1920s
The first a floral print gold lame woven in shades of blue, red, gold and pink, sleeveless, with low waist, the front fashioned as a vest, revealing gold lace band underneath, labeled: Made In England/B. Altman & Co., the second of red chiffon woven with large velvet poinsettia-like flowers, sleeveless, with dropped waist defined by self belt, scarf sewn at left shoulder, and panel draping to floor at left hip

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Two Lame Clothing Articles
1920s
The first a wrap dress with long sleeves, tying at low waist, of green silk woven with gold flowerheads, the edges trimmed with black satin and yellow and salmon embroidered silk bands, the second a cape with no armholes, the lame patterned with pink, salmon and blue floral bouquets on black and gold ground, the edges and hem sewn with salmon silk velvet, bow and streamers at back neck and ties at front.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Embroidered Chestnut Brown Velvet Dress
French, 1920s
Sleeveless, with dropped waist defined by gathered self belt, the dress embroidered allover with triangular motifs worked in peach, coral and white silk floss and gold and pewter bugle beads, labeled: Adair/4 Cite Paradise/Paris/Made In France.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Lucien Lelong Party Frock
French, circa 1926
The dress and overblouse of gray georgette, the dress finely pleated, sewn with rows of rhinestones, the waist defined with band of rhinestones and central crescent shape, the overblouse sleeveless, sewn with regularly spaced rhinestones and rhinestone band at bottom, labeled: Lucien Lelong/16 Rue Matignon/Paris/Modele Depose/Made In France.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Boue Soeurs Evening Ensemble
French, 1920s
Of ecru lace, the long chemise dress, with ruffled cap sleeves, silk flowers at right shoulder, white embroidery on bodice and at hem, slight train, short lace bolero jacket with mink trim at sleeves, separate peach silk slip, labeled: Boue Soeurs/73 Ave. Champs-Elysees/Paris/13 West 56th Street/New York; Together with a Peach Silk Slip and an Embroidered Net Bodice. Each labeled: Boue Soeurs.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Callot Soeurs Honey Chiffon Scarf Dress
French, early 1920s
The caftan style dress composed of several irregularly shaped scarf panels sewn separately to gold lace band armature, central gold lace panels front and back, the dress calf length at front, extending to square train at back, separate slip with deep gold lace hem, labeled: Callot Soeurs/Paris/Nouvelle Marque Deposee/Made In France, no. 69120.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Lame Poncho Style Wrap
French, 1920s
Woven with gold lame geometric and floral pattern, with areas stenciled or painted with colors of the spectrum, in graduated density of tone, horizontal slit for head, draping across front and shoulders and falling in points to ankle length.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Art Deco Lame Shawl
French, 1920s
Woven with large scale scallop or shell pattern in graduated tones of pink, gold and black, gold lame border, silk tassels at knotted corners, bright pink/coral silk velvet backing. 50 x 50 inches.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Gold Sequined Opera Coat
French, 1920s
Cocoon style, with large ruched black silk velvet collar and lining, sewn entirely with overlapping gold sequins and patterned at bottom and sleeve ends with horizontal bands of meandering ribbon pattern worked in smaller black and gold sequins.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Jenny Ivory Georgette and Velvet Day Ensemble
French, circa 1925
Two-piece, the hip length overblouse with long sleeves and round neck, the torso portion and hip band of georgette woven with black and ivory velvet elliptical shapes, the back sewn with full length row of small pearlized flat buttons, the dress with slip bodice and precise knife pleated skirt, similarly pleated velvet band at hem, separate slip and scarf, labeled: Jenny/Paris/UnisFrance.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Callot Soeurs Black and Pink Satin Frock
French, circa 1928
The chemise sewn with tucks at waist sides, long tight sleeves and bateau neckline, decorated with pink satin appliqued bands forming a point at front and scrolls at scalloped hem, and descending from mid-bodice down center back, accented at waist back with puffy bow and black and pink streamers, labeled: Callot Souers/Paris/Nouvelle Marque/Depose.
The dress is from the wardrobe of the wife and business manager of the journalist O.O. (Odd) McIntyre who for 26 years throughout the 1920s, 30s and 40s wrote a daily syndicated column entitled "New York Day by Day" and also authored monthly stories for Cosmopolitan for 19 years.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Black Beaded Evening Chemise
French, 1920s
Sleeveless and tubular, silk sewn with black bugle beads in an allover pattern of curvilinear interlaced medallions

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Black Chiffon and Rhinestone Chemise
French, mid 1920s
The chemise with dropped waist, slightly flared skirt and pointed hem decorated allover with rhinestones worked in diamond and crescent patterns

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Molyneux Fur-Trimmed Coat
French, 1920s
Of fine black wool, straight line, calf length, with black brown fur bands creating high stand collar and wide cuffs, decorative self bands sewn down center back, at sides and curving to edge back hem, labeled: Molyneux/5 Rue Royale/Made In France.

doylenewyork