1920s : Fashions of a Roaring Decade

[DosViolines]

Velvet and brocade opera coat.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

Velvet wrap-front coat.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

Silk georgette flapper dress.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

Lace gown.
thefrock

 

[DosViolines]

Beaded metallic lace flapper dress, c.1925

The dress is fashioned from panels of gold metallic lace covered with clear sparkling crystal beads. The panels, outlined with black glass bugle beads, form unconnected streamers below the hipline.

The neckline and hem streamers are embellished with rhinestone rosettes, which are outlined with black beads. The slip and hip band are burnished gold lamé. The dress slips over the head with no closures. The two layers are separate.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Liberty lamé evening cape, 1920s

Liberty & Co. of London, ("Liberty's") started out as an importer of Oriental wares, including fabrics. The company began producing its own fabrics in 1879 and soon became famous for its luxurious silks, which were most suited to the clinging robes and draperies worn by the artistic community.

By the mid 1920s, fashion taste and Liberty textiles had moved away from the nostalgic images of Art Nouveau to more streamlined Art Deco styles. Our cape features bold Deco-style gold tulips on a textured ground of black and gold. (Liberty & Co. was so closely identified with the origins of Art Nouveau that the movement was known in Italian as Stile Liberty.)

The gold threads have developed a beautiful burnished patina, which is the tribute that time pays to beauty. This superb period textile cannot be duplicated today. In lurex fabric, one cannot find the same subtlety and richness of texture.

The cape is totally lined with peach silk velvet. It has a wide hem border of gold lamé and a softly rolled collar with no closure. The label reads "Liberty/London/By Appointment to her Majesty the Queen."

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Rare Black Silk Satin Orientalist Coat
French, mid 1920s
With luminescent pastel polychrome amalgam application referencing designs found in coromandel lacquer, the rajah inspired style with flared set in long sleeves and slightly fitted body, the front closures with filigree gilt-metal ball buttons, metallic gold cord edging the entire application, lined in black silk satin which also borders the hems, no label.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Babani Antique Rose Pink Silk Velvet Evening Coat
French, circa 1925
The cardigan coat flared at back, gold and silver metallic Beauvais embroidery in a pattern evoking the Orient bordering all edges, exaggerated hanging sleeve, lined in deeper pink silk, labeled: Babani/98 Bd. Housemann/Paris.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Luxe Gold Brocaded Black Satin Cape
French, circa 1925
The undercollar and twelve inch deep band at hem composed of edge to edge two and one half inch vertical bands of gold picot edged black silk satin horizontally tucked in one and one half inch tucks, finishing in points at hem sewn on with gold metallic thread, deep facing at front and hem of gold and black brocade trimmed with one inch band of black satin, lining of polychrome floral motif silk velvet voided to a ground of turquoise silk georgette, fur top collar, labeled: Rutledge Gowns/Pittsburgh.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Just noticed that the Liberty capes in post #283 and #326 are the same.

 

[DosViolines]

Same coat as in post #299 with a slightly different description.

Celadon Velvet Opera Coat
French, 1920s
Embroidered allover in modernist pattern of gold seed beads swooping to front from center back, padded and abstract smocked collar with smocked collar band, no label.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Midnight Blue Wool Coat
French, late 1920s
Wide coat with one button at waist, shawl collar, kimono sleeve with gusset and turn-back cuff, top and under collar trimmed with double row of black silk soutache which is also around button and all edges, black satin lining, no label.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Modernist Lame Brocade Opera Coat
Probably House of Worth, French, 1920s
Black silk and gold woven overall in circular floral design, gathered neckline, salmon silk shawl collar brocaded with gold lame foliate design extending down sides of coat, plain salmon satin lining, batwing sleeves, no label.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Gallenga Ruby Velvet Stenciled Evening Cape
Italian, 1920s
Copper gold, repeat medallion with Medieval heraldic motifs, smocked yoke with rolled ruched collar, velvet knotted and rolled ties interspersed with metallic braid terminating in long silk fringed tassels, wine changeante silk lining, no size, unlabeled.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Babani Champagne Velvet Embroidered Coat
Italian, 1920s
Metallic silver thread medallion block motif and leaf trim around edges and along side seams, creme silk crepe lining, labeled: Babani/98 Bd Haussmann/Paris.

doylenewyork

 

[DosViolines]

Two Hermes Wool Knit Bathing Suits
French, 1920s
Each a sleeveless tank tunic over attached shorts, the first navy with creme bodice yoke and details, self belt, the second of gray and creme ribbed self stripe, royal blue wide belt, each labeled: Hermes/Sports/Paris.

doylenewyork

 

[lotusgreen]

it's so gorgeous, the worth opera coat. i really want an opera coat. i wonder if i could make one....

 

[SomethingElse]

Legendary lensman Edward Steichen vastly varied his subject matter—from horticulture to naval combat—throughout his lengthy, illustrious career. When he turned his camera on the worlds of fashion and celebrity as chief photographer for Condé Nast from 1923 to 1938, he produced some of the era's freshest and most glamorous portraits and fashion editorial images. Case in point: This image of four models leisurely sitting on a yacht, dressed in fashionably loose-shouldered jackets, skirts, and cloches from the July 15, 1928, Vogue.

condenaststore.com

 

[SomethingElse]

This cigarette case, made by Cartier circa 1963, is decorated with lapis lazuli and gold chain. The gold lighter, also made by Cartier circa 1921, is decorated with a sun ray motif.

corbis.com

 

[SomethingElse]

Black lace cocktail dress, late1920s, the black satin gown with overlays of
chiffon and lace, small button detailing.

kerrytaylorauctions.com