DosViolines
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whitakerauctionPrinted Lame Cape
Share your thoughts on the... 2025 Met Gala!
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whitakerauctionPrinted Lame Cape
whitakerauctionGirl Scout Uniform, c. 1927
Silk, glass and synthetic, woven (chiffon), woven (velvet) and applied (beads), c. 1926.
Silk and synthetic, woven (net), embroidery and applied (sequins). c. 1921-1925.
Silk, synthetic and glass, woven (net), applied (beads) and applied (sequins). c. 1925-1927.
Silk, synthetic and glass, woven (net), applied (beads) and applied (sequins). c. 1925-1929.
Metal, glass and silk, woven (lame), applied (coils) and applied (beads), c. 1925-1929.
Goat leather, c. 1920-1929.
A pair of women's white kid-skin gauntlet gloves with three lines of decorative stitching on the back. There is kid-skin fringe in the outer side-seam of the glove from the middle of the hand to the end of the glove, and a strap on the inside of the wrist fastening with a press stud.
The plain clean line of the clothing and accessories to dress in the 1920s were often decorated in different and in elaborate ways. These gloves are a perfect example: a simple shape is changed completely by the addition of an exuberant (and almost over-the-top) fringe.
This pair of gloves too shows how fashions were changing and a gauntlet style was becoming the shape of choice of the well dressed woman's gloves. The band at the wrist is both practical (it keeps the gloves snug on the hand) and gives a fashionable sporty look.
vintagetextileHand-embroidered silk dress, early 1920s
Chinese hand-embroidered silk shawls, which were very popular with the Western market in the early 20th century, were sometimes incorporated into garments. This graceful ivory silk dress is a fine example of the vogue.
The dress features an asymmetrical design that incorporates the hand-knotted fringe borders of the shawl. The embroidered panels are layered over a matching silk crepe de chine under dress. Other than the exquisite hand embroidery, the only embellishment is the belt of silk petals at the drop waist.
The under dress closes with snaps and hooks in the stepped method popular in the early 1920s: hooks on the center-front opening, hooks at the waist from the center-front to the side, and snaps on the side skirt opening. These closures are hidden under the embroidered panels.
vintagetextileDeco devoré velvet flapper coat, c.1925
The coat is fashioned from black silk velvet cut to a ground of striped blue, rose, and green silk. It is lined with blue silk velvet with a wide band of black velvet near the hem. There are narrow blue velvet panels on the sides of the coat. The collar and cuffs are black velvet; the cuffs are lined with blue velvet. The coat has no closure but is held in place by draping the scarf/collar to the back.
Although velvet was first made from silk in the Middle Ages, the devoré technique was invented in France only about 100 years ago. The process uses a chemical gel to dissolve (devour or "devoré" in French) cellulose plant fiber to leave shadows of silk chiffon amid deep velvet pile. Devoré velvet became all the rage in the 1920s and is just now making a comeback.
vintagetextileBeaded cotton voile dress, c.1924
Fashioned from white cotton voile, the dress slips over the head in an easy-to-wear style. The only closures are snaps at the shoulders. The dress is gently shaped with pin tucks at the shoulders and gathered fullness at the side hips.
The dress is decorated with pink, melon, lilac, and blue glass bead flowers set in branches of green glass beads. The white slip is a later style and not original to the dress.
vintagetextileSilk lace peignoir, early 1920s
The weightless peignoir is as comfortable as it is beautiful. The wide roomy sleeves, cut-in-one with the bodice, allow freedom of movement, while showcasing the lace pattern. The peignoir closes in front with a single hook hidden behind a bouquet of silk ribbon roses.
vintagetextileDevoré velvet flapper dress, c.1925
Many collectors of early 20th century design were originally drawn to the exceptional beauty of the textiles. Although modern technology has given us practical fabrics, we have lost the beauty of the wonderful textiles used in the 1920s.
The simple flapper chemise, uncluttered with detail and numerous seams, is the ideal setting for textile art. The dress is fashioned from plum colored silk velvet that is cut to a ground of dusty rose silk chiffon. I love the contrast of bold Deco stylized roses on the bodice with naturalistic, softly hued roses on the skirt.
At the drop waist, the dress is attached to an ivory silk clip with a wide bronze lamé top border. The lamé straps of the slip are embellished with red and green glass beads and glittering rhinestones.
c. 1923 Hand-beaded lurex. This evening jacket of beaded Lurex has colourful Egyptian-type motifs, in shades of blue, green, black, pink and cream. It was probably made in France about 1923. It is square in shape, with a deep 'V' front opening. Its three-quarter sleeves are slightly flared towards the wrists. Howard Carter's discovery of Tuthankamun's tomb in 1922 prompted a fashion for Egyptian designs.