Asian Faces In High Fashion

[FND74]

He Cong or Cong He is so beautiful in a doll face kind of way.

 

[Prymasquous]

the.CATALYST – ASIAN EDITION #1
03.24.15

~F/W 2015 RTW SEASON~
This account is to give a general overview of what happened this past season.
To stress it’s not intentional to pit one model against another.
The sole purpose of this task is to put these aspects into perspective.
This should elicit enlightenment in regards to runway shows and correspondence to the models’ performance.
They will be review in sections.
...

=the STRUTTERS=
The faces that partake in the four fashion weeks.




Click each name for their respective showlist and for reference.
MONA|JING|LUPING|YUAN|SUNGHEE|JIHYE|ISSA|FEI FEI|DYLAN|JIYOUNG|YUMI|BHUMIKA|TIANA
CHIHARU|LIU XU|YUE HAN|MAE|JIAYE|XIAO XING|MING|ASH|CONG|CHEN|FANGDA|YUDU
PONG|LI WEI|XIAO WEN|SHIQING|LILY|MENG|MENGMENG|SISSI|IHUA|ESTELLE|TIAN YI|LIU WEN
QUYOU|WANG JING|SOOJOO|QI WEN|HUI HUI|SHU PEI|YUE NING|SHERRY
FERNANDA HIN LIN LY

*

/BY THE NUMBERS/
A comparative breakdown of shows in terms of quality versus quantity in each city.
To determine, all models’ showlist are evaluated.
*tie breakers were acknowledged
-

New York


London


Milan


Paris




*drum rolls*

QUANTITY OVERALL

#2 Jing
#3 Luping


QUALITY OVERALL

#2 Jing
#3 Issa

*

OPENED|CLOSED
Opening or closing a show has its value and for a model to occupy this position,
it’s an honor to represent the brand with utmost gratitude and respect.
Here are the models that were able to do just that.
-
Mona opened Noon by Noor and Fyodor Golan, closed Adam Selman
Bhumika opened and closed Manish Aurora
Issa opened Kenzo
Chiharu opened Aganovich
Tiana opened Anteprima
Soojoo closed Each x Other
Hui Hui closed Taoray Wang
Jiyoung closed Talbot Runhof
Jihye closed Pascal Millet
Liu Xu closed both Martin Grant and Christine Phung
Dylan closed both Thakoon and Christophe Lemaire
Xiao Wen closed Rodarte
Fei Fei closed Dolce & Gabbana

*

|EXCLUSIVES|
To generate buzz for launching new faces and imminent names one has to be strategic.
Securing an exclusive is to ensure a model’s relevance and desirability.
-
Both Bhumika and Tiana were semi-exclusive for Alexander Wang
Fernanda Hin Lin Ly was a world-wide exclusive for Louis Vuitton

*

+INCLUSIVENESS+
Here is to essentially highlight shows for integrating Asian models into their lineup;
and conversely, shows that don’t employ Asian models into their casting. This is a subject that cannot be ignored.
Without further ado here are the best and worst shows in each city.
-

New York:
Opening Ceremony casted eight
Boss casted zero

London:
Preen casted five
J.W. Anderson casted zero

Milan:
Roberto Cavalli casted six
Prada casted one

Paris:
Kenzo casted twelve
Celine casted zero


*drum rolls*

Show for casting the least goes to:

Celine
Not one Asian model was present. Zero. The CD was Michelle Lee.

...
Show for casting the most Asian models this season:
Kenzo

This season, Angus Munro casted 12 models with Asian ancestry:
Issa, Cong, Estelle, Yuan, Mona, Jihye, Sunghee, Jing, Tiana, Bhumika, Yumi, and Chiharu

***

: DISCUSSION :

• 39/46 models were present at New York showings, with 290 runway slots available
• 20/46 models were present at London showings, with 107 runway slots available
• 19/46 models were present at Milan showings, with 130 runway slots available
• 33/46 models were present at Paris showings, with 190 runway slots available
• NY integration: of the bigger name shows that weren’t mentioned had 3 or 4 models, and a handful casted two notably Derek Lam, Jason Wu, Marc by MJ, Rag & Bone, Zac Posen and Calvin Klein. A surprise upgrade from CK especially. The overall average is 3.5 despite the highest concentration of Asian models of the four city, and for the majority of shows that casted at least one Asian. Special mention goes out to both Anna Sui and KTZ for seven; and Public School casted six models. Philip Lim, Noon by Noor, Cushnie et Ochs and Alexander wang all casted five Asian models
• London integration: the city with the least amount of shows had an average of three models for bigger name shows; of the smaller show names the average is one; and most big brand names such as Burberry, Tom Ford, Giles, and Christopher Kane for example casted two. Special mention goes out to Christian Macdonald, Daks, Emilia Wickstead and Fyodor Golan for having four in their lineup
• Milan integration: since Milan is notorious for their lack of diversity, as a whole the average number is two, encompassing big and smaller brands. Specifically No.21, Blumarine, Ferretti, Jil Sander, Just Cavalli, Pucci, Max Mara and the Armani lines had two at the very most. Special mention goes out to Dolce & Gabbana for five; and Ermanno, Giamba, Marni, Missoni and Philipp Plein for casting four Asians
• Paris integration: second to NY for most Asian models walking, turns out the overall average is three; and for big brands three would also be a solid number. Though there were few shows casting only one Asian such as Balenciaga, Elie Saab, Miu Miu and Saint Laurent; and both Isabel Marant and Lanvin casted two. Special mention goes out to Chanel, Shiatzy Chen and Dries van Noten casting seven, six and five, respectively
• Liu, most establish walked five; Shu Pei, Ming, Xiao Wen, Tianyi and Soojoo all walking less; current crop holders such as Chiharu, Jihye and Sunghee maintained in the midst of the influx of the next generation
• Yumi, Issa, Mona, Jing, Dylan, Luping, Mae, Tiana and Bhumika are the leading force vying those lucrative bookings
• Season debut for the likes of Yuan, Cong, Estelle, Ash, Fernanda and others found themselves in coveted slots
• The perseverance of Jiyoung, Liu Xu, Xiao Xing, Li Wei, Lily and others continues walking
• Last but certainly not the bit least, Fei Fei remains supreme – though as a caveat, for how much longer?
  
  +Plus many good surprises and unexpected moments and first shows for some...also the biggest disappointments of the season...

NOTES:

This report is rather an illustration and not necessarily a full representation of the full picture. In other words, with the omission of other models that weren't taken into account the data found in the discussion section for number of models and runway slots should be higher; and calculation of the averages in the discussion section should be slightly higher. However, the inclusiveness section should be 99% correct.

The starting point for this evaluation was mainly looking at the big brands first then the second and third tier shows. Next would be whichever shows that were accessible that had Asian models were also considered.

As a disclaimer, it was quite tricky evaluating what shows were deemed first or second tier shows; and what shows were deemed second tier or third and so on. There’s no point system to determine exactly what shows fall under what tier and in terms of their quality-ness, hence it was an informal attempt. And of course there are those prominent shows that had little difficulty. Though there was confusion when comparing two first tier or two second tier brands...that was a debate based whether on the designer, history and relevance of the brand/show.

Again, the 46 models presented here is not a full representation of all Asian models that walked, but they are the most recognizable faces.

Please note that not all models’ showlists are reliable. Especially the lesser-known models, because they probably walked a few shows that weren’t accessible and presentations that were omitted. However it’s contended that their showlists are 90% completed, and for the established models their showlists are entirely completed.

Lastly, what wasn’t taken into account is the number of looks for each model in each show they walked for. It will take more effort and time to assess those numbers. Again, this is a brief overview and for our general purposes.​

CREDITS:
All collages made by me with pictures courtesy of nowfashion.com, style.com, stylebistro.com and wwd.com via the models’ respective thread.
Showlists compiled by me, Shunichiro and additional help/identification via tFS Showlists thread.
And special thanks to StereoFlo! Much appreciation for the collective work. Thank you all.


Until next season!

instagram/sola5532
​

 

[TheoG]

Prymasquous, Thank you for this general overview! The time it must have taken to compile this for us is much appreciated.

As you stated earlier in your post is the this clear scale that occurs each season with Asian models (occurs with all models), that one model acts as the representative for race. Its frustrating that one model has the be on top while another has to be knocked down. Its also a bit amusing that you ended the post with a photo of Sora who I believe was a victim of this, it was clear that she was being held off all season for LV, maybe not. But Sora did indeed traveled to Paris prior to the Louis Vuitton show which she was speculated to walk because of her continuous work with the label but unfortunately it appears that she was dropped last minute maybe for another Asian model? Sora didn't have the right to walk for Louis Vuitton but why allow her to waste the whole season? It doesn't seem fair for the model.

 

[stamonopkaward]

Kudos to Fei Fei! She really is the most successful asian model in high fashion right now. Maybe even of all time?

 

[Prymasquous]

^If we are talking about in recent memory, then yes I think Fei Fei is. I don't think I need to pull out FF's repertoire to prove anything; and I think the general consensus would agree that FF has achieved monumentally in the past two years. One could also say that she has yet to land a cosmetic contract or long-term fragrance and an OG blue-chip ad campaign though. Of the more important things, that's pretty much it...



@TheoG

You know, things really just have to change eventually, sooner or later. Better yet, people with global yet respectful mindset will need to occupy these positions and make sensible motives. And this tokenism is no longer applicable in this day and age. Seriously, just can’t with people who employ that kind of tactic. It’s not even that insulting anymore, more trivial and amusing than anything. Also just how unsophisticated some people are.

As for Sora, I agree. I’m more incline to believe that she was in contention for a LV WW EX, but wasn’t confirmed yet? Hence why I think she was in NY perhaps for castings and such? (Just a guess, not even sure if she went to castings – seems like but not sure.) Or she was considered for the exclusive but everything fell through towards the end I guess. It’s unfortunate and was weird. Though, it’s not like her runway career is over. See what next season will bring!

 

[Prymasquous]

And I know that this isn't anything new and it may sound as if we are beating a dead horse with this line of conversation. But seriously, when are the Asian models, particularly the Chinese models will get their due? I just don’t feel as if they are getting their fair share yet. Perhaps not at the level that I think they should. Especially in this very moment where most capable fashion houses are taking this advantage by opening stores in China progressively (or aggressively?) and are profiting off of materialistic minded-people like there’s no tomorrow. China needs prominent figures too (and no, not the respected actors, musicians nor celebrities), notably our very own models. I mean for instance, we have the Brazilian wave, the Belgian or western Europeans, the Russians, etc. and they all have had their fair share to stardom, if you will. In general, those models from those regions have received and achieved it all – all pivotal aspects of the modeling and fashion industry. Why can’t it work for the Chinese other than the obvious barriers? And personally, I feel quite ambivalent towards this whole Chinese models wave. I know that it’s an abstract of business and that it isn't genuine. Even though I may sound indifferent to this, I do acknowledge this moment and hopeful that things will change (but I probably don’t have to, because business ordeals will surely sneaks in and make that happen!).

I’m also seeing a lot of the established models endorsing/representing multiple fashion brands and that’s nice – business per usual. However, personally I would like to see them representing the brand in the ads itself too...and some have but those bigger brands, not so much luck (with the exception of Du Juan, Ai Tominaga, Hye Park and Devon Aoki in the past). A visual image has a lot of influence and has more meanings and has more impact if one were to star in them. I don’t know how or what Chinese think/feels about this, but that’s just me though. Those faces in this format evoke messages - in this case they should speak to the Chinese audience...

 

[Prymasquous]

You know, a couple months back I've thought about this year's theme for the MET gala. And wasn't sure whether there's a tribute for 'China: Through the Looking Glass'. When Vogue China May cover rolled out, personally was really disappointed that there wasn't a high profile name, such as Gong Li (she's co-chair for this year's gala), on its cover let alone a Chinese. I mean logically it should've been a starlet of Chinese background representing the theme and Chinese culture. Ideally. I'm still baffled over the cover choice.

Even if VC wasn't privileged to showcase the pieces into their magazine, I still think the cover choice should've warrant a Chinese woman - most likely an actress. Anyway I don't own the current issue, thus I have no idea whether there's an article/editorial highlighting the MET, but I assume there is or should be - after all it's Chinese.


Annually Vogue US features the MET in it's pages, and the overall outcome of "Go East" was pretty good. Stunning photography. Though personally would've liked something more entrancing and light and diversity in hair and makeup (there was an array of hair styles but still look all too similar). I get that it's their interpretation and it's okay. I did appreciate the cultural references and the captions were nice too (if anyone is aware of Chinese culture).

Furthermore, I wanted multitude of models in this tribute. In the editorial there were 10 dresses thus it could've been 10 different model. IMO, Du Juan, Liu Wen, Fei Fei, Shu Pei, Ming, Xiao Wen, Tianyi, Jing, Dylan and Luping should've been a part of this, factoring who VUS/Meisel likes. (Of course, Fei Fei going solo was wise.) To my next point. What I had envisioned, I would've wanted (or at least anticipated), was a group shot if it was MG. And I think they didn't go with a group shot/MG editorial, because it would've hearken back to Asia Major.

A group shot of individuals I would like to see. Ugh. What a missed opportunity!




Of the 10 pieces in "Go East" were all by western designers. Thus, if VC had the opportunity to create an authentic, creative yet clever idea of their rendition of this year's MET theme, the editorial should comprise of Chinese-born talents too. Honoring their designs and ever-evolving ideas and perspective of Chinese garments. That, I would like to see too.

In doing so, the faces that elevate Chinese presence should be modeled by:

Du Juan, Emma Pei, Miao Bin Si, Wang Xiao, Bonnie, Liu Wen, Shu Pei, Fei Fei, Ming, Sui He, Xiao Wen, Lina, Cici, Xiao Xing, Liu Xue, Tianyi, Jing, Dylan, Luping and Yuan. *my personal picks


To illustrate my case provided by the below visuals, it would've been so so damn awesome to see the aforementioned names in a group shot. And what will be different is that if this editorial were to happen by VC, I think it would be nice to see a fusion of traditionalism and contemporary inspirations - lavishly, exquisite, luminous and feminine. Also, Chinese architecture, breathtaking scenic locations and motifs should be utilized as setting and props for the editorial celebrating the past and present/future of Chinese culture. Though I'm not against an elaborate studio shoot.

tumbl/vogue, vogue.com, wordpress/pleasurephoto, wordpres/theglamsquadfiles
​

 

[Prymasquous]

Beauty advice from our very own Chinese peers...

---

screenshot via vogue.com​

 

[Prymasquous]

These women aren't models per se. But to coincide with China, beauty, style and great talent. I think it'll be just as appropriate to have them here.

As for that May cover (I know, it's not that big of a deal), one of these women, or all six really, could have front it...could have been historical, could have been something great with the sheer caliber of the iconic career of these incredible individuals, to choose from...

screenshot via vogue.com​

 

[Prymasquous]

Just days ahead and it will truly be an amazing night and moment to see a legion of Chinese recognizable faces - and new - coming to fashion's biggest event. How remarkable.

Interesting to see the look/fashion; and the reception of Wong Kar Wai creativity at helm.



Anyway, also interested which/how many models will be there.

Anticipating Du Juan, Liu Wen, Shu Pei, Fei Fei, Xiao Wen thus far...

 

[Prymasquous]

The five Zhongguo models that attended the MET:

Du Juan | Liu Wen | Shu Pei | Fei Fei | Xiao Wen


style.com, weibo.com, zimbio.com

Making it short. Some were a bit disappointing. But overall they all looked gorgeous nevertheless.​

Anyway my little nitpick is that...of the Chinese ladies attendees, I just didn't see many long straight hair being utilized as part of their look. Like none. (Being Chinese/Asian, that probably would've been a no-brainer. Perhaps that's just the traditional sense in me.)


Nothing elaborate or professional, but for a quick illustration. Personally would've had love to see some of these looks - specifically long, slick, luxe and dramatic
hair and more incorporation of the hanfu. Missed out on those two for sure.

my picture​

For example, would've paired any of these looks/hairstyle with hanfu (or the like)...

1) If dramatic and bold, would've wore a hanfu silk dress with a finger loop to the sleeves and a faux fur shawl over the shoulders. This ensemble has to be in all black with a choice of color for balance. And of course, sky-high beehive hair with extra long hair cascade down the back is a must.

2) In the mood for sexy, opt for a hanfu latex strapless with hair tied up with a brooch attached and make it a bit wild (the focus should be the hair - would've rival Beyonce's ponytail).

3) Elegant for the night, one should strap in a beaded gown and the train must not be long but sleek; and with a hanfu inspired cape or overcoat with hanfu collar/straps as markers, should be effective.

4) Rather be comfortable and laid back, all one has to do is wear an intricate detailed corset, hanfu inspired chiffon pants and a lightweight hanfu scarf for the neck.

5) To align with the theme best, or just creative, one could try to somehow incorporate a cheongsam from the hips up and a hanfu flowing dress for the legs and a massive embellished cape with extensive traditional motifs.

6) Keeping it simple and chic - a lace hanfu inspired gown and a shawl should suffice. This most definitely will be all white.


*I know. They still aren't very Chinese nor innovative, but the idea is to fuse those styles into one vision, so to speak. And it doesn't matter which dynasty/time period the ensemble pieces subscribe to. More importantly as long it show some dignity, effort and homage to China.




Anyway, in no particular order some personal faves/standouts were Gong Li, Emma Roberts, KK, Liya, Li Yuchun, Behati, Alexa, Natasha, Zhang Ziyi and of course, Rihanna.

Though I loved Natasha and Naomi's hair. Yes, I would've done the same (long hair right there!). And Fei Fei's makeup was flawless.

Last look from the talented Guo Pei. Just magnificent.


instagram/liuwenlw​

 

[Prymasquous]

Just as it is...


youtube​

 

[Prymasquous]

So...a couple weeks ago there was a rumor regarding the June issue of VI having Chinese models.

At first it wasn't implied that the models may potentially front the cover, but that they were involved in the June issue.

Four models were mentioned - though no names.



However, today, VI just confirmed that the June issue will in fact be a 'Chinese issue' or something along the line...

It's pretty vague and it probably implied several meanings...thus I'm not holding my breath whether a Chinese model may front the cover. Seriously.


Though, I would be lying if I'm not anticipating - actually, I should expect - a Chinese beauty (or more) fronting VI. Ah, the suspense.

Will they? Maybe. One would hope, hope so...

[​

 

[Prymasquous]

It appears VI keeps leaking information...though not revealing too much.

So VI June will be a "Special" issue. Thus this prompt to ask whether it'll be multi-covers or something else that would deem it special (think guest editor, special collaboration, introducing talents? Probably not.)...


Anyway, it may seem that there may be more than four models. Just really really hope that the models won't be just new faces. It would be ideal if it's a mixture of established faces and new emerging stars.





Personally, I'm kind of skeptical about this now. A Chinese issue for what? Why now? What's the significance that warrant this "special" issue? Why is VI insisting on disclosing info. on this particular issue?

Whatever it is, I guess my expectations aren't high or I'm not expecting much as I initially would.

 

[TheoG]

^ I'm very curious to see the cover. It was surprising to hear the news a few days ago. The speculation is Fei Fei which is an obvious choice because of their relationship. And in my opinion captures her better than anyone else. But Fei Fei does seem to be a quote "safe" choice, I would not surprised if it is someoneone or like you mention more than just one model. Jing Wen really sticks out to me out of the girls listed, but I would be completely contemned with Liu, Luping, or Dylan. I would even throw in Cong He -- Meisel could launch her if wanted, she is untouched internationally in terms of print.

 

[Prymasquous]

While I agree that Fei Fei and Meisel are the best pairing thus far. It's just that Fei Fei doesn't sound that exciting and is too predictable. Even a boring choice at this point (I know, it hurts to say that).

Since this is a "special" issue indicated by VI, and if it's multi-covers, then Fei Fei can be a part of this. If not then she shouldn't front the cover.


Personally would much prefer this moment go to a new face. Such as Jing, Dylan, Luping, Yuan and Cong (can add Estelle, Fernanda & Ash too), needs this cover/buzz to cement their face/name to the fashion crowd. If chosen I think most can hold their own if photographed/directed accordingly.

Besides it's time for Meisel to be more inclusive in his girls and help launch these beauties. Rotating Fei Fei and Issa would be redundant. And they surely don't need this boost for their career at the moment.



Lastly of course Liu Wen was added as wishful thinking. Liu has not cover VI solely, thus if it's multi-covers...why not employ Liu as the equivalent as Ms. Campbell, if you will. I mean it's not like Meisel or Ms. Sozanni is estranged to Liu completely too...

 

[Prymasquous]

Hmm...


It's alluded that the June issue will probably not be shot by Meisel.

And word on the street is that Sorrenti will make his debut for the publication.


Take it for what it's worth...

 

[Prymasquous]

Also, not sure what "special" is implying to what.

Whether it's referring to changing photographers for covers or because it's a Chinese issue...gonna go with the former.

Although all of these little snippets that VI are giving away, one may have to be leery.

 

[Prymasquous]

Bummer. Had hoped that this could've been a multi-cover special edition. But since VI insist on being such a tease, it may very well be a single cover (MG, could be a possibility).


If so, the cover star could be Jing, if Sorrenti indeed shot the June issue...at least that was implied, originally.


And it appears that Jing, Yuan, Estelle and Fernanda are some of the models that may be featured...

 

[Prymasquous]

Weird and confusing as with anything that has no basis, yet.


By now, wouldn't be a surprise if it's not Chinese...