Chanel Haute Couture F/W 13.14 Paris

[SGaspar]

I did like it, and I haven't liked a Chanel couture collection in ages! Probably I just went nuts, or maybe it's that this is better than what I honestly expected it to be :|

 

[Melancholybaby]

style.com

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Couture, really?

 

[StoneSkipper]

These silhouettes are so weird! It's like they had too much fabric hanging and decided to use it on everything. There are some good things, though.

 

[KKnardi]

PARIS — A destroyed theater, its windows smashed and its walls peeling, was filled with scruffy, prewar chairs.

“It’s a real set. Something’s going to happen and I’m thinking special effects,” said Baz Luhrmann, the film director, waiting for the start of Wednesday’s Chanel haute couture show.

Then WOW! As the crumpled black curtains opened, the front-row guest Rihanna flung back her flame-red hair, while the supermodel Natalia Vodianova, pretty in pink, gasped at the sight of a 3-D backdrop of metallic skyscrapers glinting against an ethereal blue sky.

“It’s a new world,” said Karl Lagerfeld, referring to the set’s inspiration, the Singapore skyline, as seen when Chanel showed its Resort collection there in May and the designer then began his first couture sketches for this autumn 2013 season.

The damaged theater, the designer said, suggested Coco Chanel coming back after World War II to find Paris looking forlorn — and, after a shaky start, she rebuilt her fashion house.

But the show was dynamic, not melancholy, in spite of the lush operatic music of “La Traviata” on the initial soundtrack. Even the tweed suits — often not wool, but woven effects created by embroidery — had an eerie silver gleam. And dresses were what the designer called “kinetic,” referring to more eye-popping effects of tiny squares worked into rounded mosaics or a hologram pattern on finely striped fabric.

The force of the Far East rising in the fading splendor of the Western world was shown also by the choice of striking Asian models, until recently unseen on couture runways.

The real success of this collection, without being emotional or extraordinary, was that the futuristic theme did not produce weird clothes.

A short dress might have a bodice running like liquid mercury with hard silver nuggets on the skirt; or a tunic would twinkle with mosaics of silver squares. What they had in common was a silhouette elongated by a wide, hip belt and soft suede boots disappearing upward to hold the silhouette together.

Chanel’s game of constant renewal is familiar from the multitasking designer. But Mr. Lagerfeld excelled himself in taking the historic dressmaking skills of haute couture and making the result look like they belonged to the 21st century.

Suzy Menkes // http://www.nytimes.com/2013/07/03/fashion/chanels-kinetic-look-at-a-new-world.html?ref=global&_r=0

 

[VerdeShimmer]

A really uninspiring collection, definitely one of his worst couture presentation ever. Apart from a couple of dresses that are great, the rest is just insipid and boring.

I agree with this. I think it is too many looks as well. Karl should just focus on 10 or 20 really standout complete outfits.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Well, this is obviously a mess. Not a hot one.

 

[CATO]

this are the only two looks in that I have fell in love



style

 

[ultramarine]

With such presentation and the clothes seeming THIS dated, it looks like its Derelicte HC by Lagerfeld.

Or Chanel HC by Mugatu. Worst thing Ive seen for Chanel. EVER.

 

[marcBarna]

 

[Selfportraitgrl]

I don't normally have a strong opinion on Chanel either way--I'm usually of the mindset that I don't care for it, but I don't hate it either. But this collection is... ghastly. Surely, there are some great pieces amidst the awful styling, but the rest is outdated, awkward, and unflattering.

I feel like Karl's Chanel has become so stale... the fashion house needs a breath of fresh air.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

The drop waist big belt works with the short skirts, in that 60s mod-go-go way. And a few gowns are nice. But there are some rather ugly bits and "meh" things as well.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Apart from the typically wonderful set and the Blade Runner hints, the highlights of this collection lie in the extraordinary fabrics, fabric manipulations and embroideries, all of which Lagerfeld probably has very little input in the actual development and design of.
These wonderful aspects unfortunately do not redeem the absolute lack of consideration towards the proportions of the wearer (of any shape or size).
Why he insisted on destroying every single outfit with one of those horrid drop-waist belts which sit directly under the stomach is beyond me - they suit noone (see Princess Caroline of Monaco in Chanel). The hem of one dress was even mid-calf and with a drop-waist belt, it really couldn't get less flattering.. that is until you see the rectangular satin coat with funnel neck.
One's eye just craves to see a flattering shape, but alas, there are none.
Even the bride was given a muffin top with that ridiculous belt.

 

[iluvjeisa]

It's very experimental this time around. I get the feeling that this look is the damsel in distress merged with her knight in shining armor....through an early 80s (new wave) lense.

 

[simple_elegance]

Laaaaaaame...

 

[Nymphaea]

Don't like the designs, but the details are exquisite.