Christian Dior 1996-2002 : The John Galliano Early Years

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UltimateFashion posted a recent video comparing ready to wear and haute couture collections (one derived from the other) when Galliano was at the helm from 1997 all the way up to 2011.



The only RTW collection that did not share a common theme with HC was...you guessed it. Spring/Summer 2005. I didn't realize that collection was kinda like a "best hits" collection, bringing back common Dior staples from back in the day.
 
They reused patterns and constructions of couture not themes
Alves and Werbowy looks from SS05 were based on FW04 couture.
And long dresses from FW05 were also based on FW04 couture patterns

FW05 closing look variation:

andrerau.com

And what this person could say about reuse of FW 2000 HC patterns for non runway rtw in 2003? LOL I would like to know more about this too :smile:


anyway... Where the Hell is Assouline Dior by Galliano book???? I'm so tired of waiting. Wasn't Ferre released two or three years ago already? I'm sure, I will hate their selection and terrible photography of Laziz Hamani - person who has no idea about fashion and not even trying to see and show interesting details, construction moments, silhouettes, etc. He is more interested in putting everything in shadow and useless dusty photography equipment in the background.
 
MagFan said:
Where the Hell is Assouline Dior by Galliano book???? I'm so tired of waiting.
Click to expand...

God, I've been waiting for so long that I forgot it's even happening! I only got the Christian Dior one which I enjoyed thoroughly but I definitely see your point about the photography, which is part of the reason why I didn't invest in the other books, so instead I've been saving up for Galliano but at this point it doesn't seem like we'll ever see that one.
 
I'm just surprised nobody's found access to all the shows in HD. All the JPG and Viktor & Rolf shows leaked earlier but nothing on Dior? Shame.
 
There are so many materials of Galliano period online, so if they won't keep this in mind, this book will be as empty and overpriced as Vogue France Collections. But they are targeting average people, so they will win anyway. These will be praising it, even if they photograph overexposed dresses from recent exhibitions only and half of them will be based on borrowed ideas from non related to Dior designers.
 
Totes agree^ It’s gotta have new information on details, construction, inspiration, stories… Otherwise save your money just and go to livingly, gettyimages or like 1stdibs lol.

what I really want is for someone to post the god damn f*cking hq video for fw01 couture already
 
Sydney Toledano wants to erase Galliano name from Dior so from fashion story.
 
Haute Fourrure. Special show just for fur collection
 
In case anyone wants some extra info, from Kerry Taylor's book, the show was a collab between Galliano/Dior and Peter Georgiades of Stallion Inc., an NY based furrier. It took place at the Metropolitan Club in NYC and consisted of designs based on past Dior HC and Galliano RTW collections. The collab only lasted that one collection bc there was some bad blood between Galliano and Stallion regarding royalty payments.

I wish there was more photographic documentation on this :cry: this is the only pic I've found on it, besides the old auction lot pics of a couple garments.

galiano01.jpg
source: WWD.com
 
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Here it is


New Dior book focuses on the John Galliano era
AN ENGLISH IN PARIS: A new coffee table book focuses on John Galliano’s designs for Dior, from the midnight blue satin slip dress Princess Diana wore at the 1996 Met Gala to a canary yellow tulle gown from her latest haute couture collection for the French fashion house in 2011, inspired by illustrator René Gruau.

The 448-page tome, published by Assouline, is the fifth volume in the series that Dior publishes and relates each creative director of the brand. Written by Andrew Bolton, Wendy Yu curator in charge of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, it features photographs by Laziz Hamani as well as images by Richard Avedon, Peter Lindbergh and Paolo Roversi.

More from WWD

“It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of John’s work, especially his work at Dior, which we actively collect over the years,” Bolton said in a statement provided to WWD.

“[Christian] Dior and John share so many similarities – they’re both die-hard romantics and inspired storytellers, they both have a deep respect for history, and they both appreciate and understand the creative possibilities of high fashion. “, did he declare.

“John’s genius has been to extend and broaden the aesthetic language of Dior through new transfigurations and to align his fashions with the times. His work at Dior embodies the fantasy and escape of the 1990s and early 2000s. In fact, if it hadn’t already existed, history should have invented it, ”added Bolton.

Galliano’s appointment sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, with many upset that a British designer with no tailoring experience should be given the reins of one of France’s most famous brands. .

From 1997 to 2011, he made fashion history with extravagant collections inspired by everything from the Maasai people to the ancient Egyptians, evoking muses like Marlene Dietrich and the Marquise Casati. He also became known for his theatrical arches, wearing costumes that included a matador outfit and a space suit.

“The project was incredibly meaningful to me because John and The Met have a long history together,” Bolton said. “During his time at Dior, John often visited the museum for inspiration, and over the years we have included so many of his haute couture creations in our exhibits. In fact, if you were to count the number of pieces that we have shown, they would equate to a solo exhibition.

The British designer occupies a complex place in the history of Dior: celebrated during his 15 years in office for his irreverent reinvention of the brand founded by Christian Dior, he was ousted in 2011 after having uttered racist and anti-Semitic insults in a café. Parisian following a series of drunken altercations.

Galliano then sought treatment for his addictions and came back into fashion in 2014 as the Creative Director of Maison Margiela. Dior recognized his contribution to the house by including his work in its successful 70th anniversary exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 2017.

“Dior John Galliano 1997-2011”, available in English or French, will be available for pre-order from January 11, before its official release on February 15, said a spokesperson for the house.
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almooon.com
 
It was the ultimate step for them.
One thing is that I applaud MGC for championing the return of the heritage of Galliano at Dior. They featured his work in the Arts Deco exhibition and MGC has broke the « taboo » of the mention of his name…

That’s definitely a book I will buy!
 
He was featured in all exhibitions of the past couple years equally with all other creative directors. There were more of his creations featured even, than of other designers probably. Too many from his last collections for me liking their selections.

What about cover dress? Non Christian Dior related historical costume. Couldn't they pick something from later collections or any grey suit from this one?
 
Lola701 said:
It was the ultimate step for them.
One thing is that I applaud MGC for championing the return of the heritage of Galliano at Dior. They featured his work in the Arts Deco exhibition and MGC has broke the « taboo » of the mention of his name…

That’s definitely a book I will buy!
Click to expand...
Me too, I'm sucker for everything Dior by Galliano related.
 
€195,00

assouline.com

Terrible photography as expected. Everything is in shadows, random close-ups, lots of space wasted - why knee length outfits couldn't be photographed closer? And where accessories and headpieces are?
 
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