But it’s appropriation. You are maybe uncomfortable with the idea because it’s John and it’s hard to have a negative POV on something we like.There's a short scene in High & Low: John Galliano where they touch on John's travels around the world and how they inspired his collections. In it, they feature footage of him meeting the local people of Tibet (if I remember correctly), with one of the locals presenting him a traditional costume that would go on to directly inform Stella Tennant's look in this collection—metal head-gear and all. A quick montage shows the journey from meeting the people, to mood-board, sketch, creation and ultimately to its runway moment. It was such a great thing to see that process. It's a shame things like this are now immediately seen as negative appropriation...I think it was Robin Givhan who was narrating this bit and she also called it out as appropriation, describing it as a bad symptom of the industry altogether. I don't agree with such a narrow view on finding inspiration in other cultures, but I thought it was an interesting little sequence nonetheless. Worth a watch.
But it’s appropriation. You are maybe uncomfortable with the idea because it’s John and it’s hard to have a negative POV on something we like.
That being said I don’t think appropriation comes without appreciation for designers. It’s logical to think that people will be drawn to cultures they love and have curiosity for.
I think there was a kind of over-romantization about those trips. It was a topic of discussions at the time with people from the industry because we were so jealous of that opportunity to just travel to find inspiration. I think the magic was a bit lost when I discovered what it was about in the movie.
But I don’t think people should feel guilty liking something because it can be seen as cultural appropriation.
People will call it appreciation when it’s a designer they love and appropriation when it’s someone they are less into (even though sometimes like for CDG it’s quite stupid).
Maybe my only regret about John was that it felt like costume when in fact those pieces on their own with the inspiration/copy are just enough.
I’ve been lucky to work at a fashion brand, to be around creatives and also to express some sort of creativity and I think that there’s a naïveté, an irrationality to creativity that can’t be explain. And the creative studio is a shelter of that.It indeed is appropriation, I would never negate that. Even if it's done out of appreciation, it still is appropriation. Whether you or I or anyone aesthetically responds to it, it's still appropriation. I just don't agree with the view that all appropriation is bad, full stop. It frames cultural inspiration down to a narrowing two-dimensional form of expression ("I see, I take"), while it can represent and propose new layers to ideas and narratives that dig deeper than the surface. Not saying John did not often lean on the two-dimensional...I mean, couture FA98 is exhibit A. Overall, I think it puts a limiting cap on curiosity and creativity if one is morally only allowed to reference what comes from their own world.
I’ve been lucky to work at a fashion brand, to be around creatives and also to express some sort of creativity and I think that there’s a naïveté, an irrationality to creativity that can’t be explain. And the creative studio is a shelter of that.
And suddenly, when a collection is out in the world, some things becomes rational in the eyes of the viewers and judges.
And I think this is what the whole cultural appropriation comes from.
A lot of times, when I look at John shows I cringe because it’s quite hilariously embarrassing. The Dior SS2000 RTW collection is probably the cringiest with the Lauryn Hill section.
That being said, I think the cultural appropriation question became an issue only when fashion as corporate entity, as an industry became a huge voice. When those owners of brands became known, billionaires and for some, the richest men of the world, suddenly, what was appreciated with the filter of frivolity became a deeper issue.
Suddenly, it’s not John Galliano the person stealing ideas from trips around the world to feed his creativity, it becomes Dior, the huge corporation that steals ideas with the help of it designers In order to generate billions on the back of the people they stole ideas from,
And when you add the western factor, it becomes even more deeper and it’s not about fashion anymore neither is about creativity.
The cultural appropriation conversation is interesting because it’s never about the clothes.