Bouclé skirt suits, floral dresses and chiffon tops over fitted Capri pants: does this sound like John Galliano's Dior? When the designer took his bow accessorised with a smart bowler hat and black umbrella, his message was clear: this was the epitome of convention - but with just a touch of tongue-in-cheek exaggeration. Whether pressured by exasperated fashion editors tired of the flamboyant merry-go-round on the Dior catwalk each season or simply inspired by his own natural talent for making beautiful clothes, the British designer concentrated on his craft for spring/summer 2005 and left his showy alter ego at home. And he's the only man in fashion who could make wearable clothes some of the biggest news of the season. If commerciality was on the lips of his front row, however, Galliano mixed in plenty of colourful eccentricity to prove that he would never be caught bowing to convention: kooky chicks wore multicoloured jersey tops over transparent tiered chiffon skirts and striped stockings that disappeared into Nepalese boots that were a mass of fur pompoms and ribbons. Floral-embroidered flared chiffon trousers worn under matching tops by models with wildly frizzed hair, contained in part by crocheted beanies, were a glorious homage to the Biba years, while stunning wasp-waisted jackets paid their respects to Dior's post-war New Look. He may be British born and bred, but Galliano's Dior show is easily the highlight of Paris Fashion Week season after season. John Lennon's Imagine played out T-shirts and V-necks proclaiming "Dior, Not War", before Aqua's Come On Barbie, Let's Go Party took over to set the mood for bottom-flashing minis and arm-loads of coloured, plastic bangles. And for the man himself, it was simply an obvious move to make. "It's just the way I'm feeling," he explained after the show. "I think we're all feeling that, aren't we? The John Lennon song could have been written yesterday. I mean - imagine." (October 5 2004, PM)