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wsj.comOne of the things that makes Christopher Kane one of London’s most heralded talents, with a fresh cash infusion that accompanied his recent win of the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award and a front row with the likes of Anna Wintour, Samantha Cameron and Browns founder Joan Burstein, is his ability to create looks that women see and want to immediately put on.
“What’s fantastic about Christopher and [his sister] Tammy is that it’s something different every season. It’s never repetitive. It’s always full of new ideas, new technology. Always,” said Ms. Burstein, stylish even in an arm sling. “But this was a joy. I loved it. You want to wear it right away, don’t you? And that’s the test. If you want to wear it right away, that’s it.”
This season, the Scottish designer took the grandma out of crochet, creating embossed, painted leather tops in quilted patterns and cashmere-knitted skirts that, showing some skin, added a sex appeal you would never associate with an afghan throw. “People always associate it with grannies,” Mr. Kane said backstage. “But I think it is so sexy because it hugs the body and shows some skin.”
A series of simple, beautifully tailored black dresses, with low cuts and thigh-high splits, added to the sex appeal — as did sheer sequined numbers. Necklines and pockets were trimmed with wavy, liquid-filled plastic reminiscent of a lava lamp (“When it heats up, it bubbles,” the designer said). The combination proved to be a sort of space age LBD — one that everyone woman backstage couldn’t seem to wait to get her hands on.
No inspiration from Princess Margaret or rock-chicks. No boudoir looks or girly gingham. Christopher Kane was fixated with a curious liquid-look plastic normally used for pencil cases and office stationery.
"It's fantastic," he said backstage before his show at London Fashion Week. "It's got this lava-lamp kind of look and I found someone in London who was prepared to make it into pieces I could use on my dresses."
Kane used the plastic, in shimmering, watercolour pastels and neons, to trim the neck and shoulders of fine black crepe and cashmere little black dresses. It formed the side pockets on slinky skirts and it bisected the bodices of sheer little slips in glistening, iridescent, wet-look sequins, shadow-dyed in pale pinks, turquoise and blue.
The show opened with a selection of what my grandmother used to crochet as bedspreads: Afghans, she called them, little crocheted squares in black and multiple-colours. Kane delivered them in sombre tones of navy, black and forest, slipping V-neck cardigans over below the knee skirts, or pairing a cardigan with a leather pencil, printed with the afghan squares pattern.
"It's more minimal than anything I've done before," said Kane. "But it's time for a change. No more lace or any of that. I didn't want any decoration."
The showing by the talented young Glaswegian, who also designs the Versus line for Donatella Versace, drew a stellar front row, including Samantha Cameron, Anna Wintour, Alexa Chung, Daphne Guinness, Daisy Lowe, Jo Wood, Natalie Massenet, and high profile fashion press including Glenda Bailey the editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar USA, and Franca Sozzani and Emmanuelle Alt, the editors in chief, respectively, of Italian Vogue, and Vogue Paris.