Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Gucci?

[proseccotabis]

let's wake up early tomorrow kids...lol

it's like a fashion Christmas day equivalent

 

[Xone]

it's like a fashion Christmas day equivalent

yes all the announcements tomorrow...hahaha,

Who will do it first..

 

[Frederic01]

I think people really overestimate how financially successful these runway collections are in terms of the bottom line. The reality is that these shows are more of an image maker and a base for the merchandisers to work off of. And besides, tthe ready-to-wear is a minuscule part of sales anyway. It's between 5 % and 20 % of annual revenue. That includes commercial pieces. The actual runway pieces from the show probably make up less than 5%.

Which is exactly why Kering needs a big name. Someone who will bring the right "vibe" to Gucci and give a halo effect to all the other products. Hedi can do that. HIs name stands for something. Hiring someone that is good at design but can bring no discernible vibe will not work out. Look at Ancora Sabato. Whilst he had some beautiful pieces here and there, it was boring and nothing unique, and it affected the overall perception of the brand.

And really people, do we want Saint Laurent 2.0 at Gucci? Vaccarello's vision is already becoming a little tired, no? It's the same look, same celebrities, same music, same models, ad infinitum etc etc. Can he really do something fresh? I don't think so. If he goes to Gucci he will do exactly what he is doing now but with Tom Ford-isms and that sleek, soulless, 90s vibe. You can expect things like the G G-String on Anja Rubik etc etc. My eyes are already rolling at the pretentiousness.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Here Fashionmagazine.it an italian serious magazine about finance in fashion,is saying that they want to split the creative direction, one creative director just for the runway, and a team for the stores collection, so they are not depending just on one person. All this is so distant from what Hedi would accept. The title also says “waiting for the 13th March”… so maybe tomorrow we could have double announcement in two of the most iconic italian brands! yayyyy

View attachment 1362880

If we can trust this information ("to avoid concentrating too much responsability in just one person") it doesn't sound like Hedi at all.

 

[Xone]

I think people really overestimate how financially successful these runway collections are in terms of the bottom line. The reality is that these shows are more of an image maker and a base for the merchandisers to work off of. And besides, tthe ready-to-wear is a minuscule part of sales anyway. It's between 5 % and 20 % of annual revenue. That includes commercial pieces. The actual runway pieces from the show probably make up less than 5%.

Which is exactly why Kering needs a big name. Someone who will bring the right "vibe" to Gucci and give a halo effect to all the other products. Hedi can do that. HIs name stands for something. Hiring someone that is good at design but can bring no discernible vibe will not work out. Look at Ancora Sabato. Whilst he had some beautiful pieces here and there, it was boring and nothing unique, and it affected the overall perception of the brand.

And really people, do we want Saint Laurent 2.0 at Gucci? Vaccarello's vision is already becoming a little tired, no? It's the same look, same celebrities, same music, same models, ad infinitum etc etc. Can he really do something fresh? I don't think so. If he goes to Gucci he will do exactly what he is doing now but with Tom Ford-isms and that sleek, soulless, 90s vibe. You can expect things like the G G-String on Anja Rubik etc etc. My eyes are already rolling at the pretentiousness.

Yes, AV is not what Gucci needs but the narrow mind of Bellettini and Cantino can always surprise us...

 

[Xone]

The article from fashionmagazine.it
(Sorry guys i have used the google translator im tired now lol)

WAITING FOR MARCH 13
Gucci: with the change of designer could also come a new creative structure

When Francesca Bellettini, deputy CEO of Kering, declared that the name of Gucci's new creative director would arrive "very soon", it seemed like a matter of days. Four weeks have passed since then and, according to sources close to the brand, the official announcement could be imminent.

Perhaps the date has already been set: according to La Repubblica, Sabato De Sarno's successor will be revealed on March 13, immediately after the closing of the Paris fashion shows. A strategic choice, which would bring Gucci back to the center of attention at a crucial moment for the brand.

Over the weeks, several names have been linked to the position, but the most popular still seems to be Hedi Slimane. The French designer, 56, despite a tense past with Kering - culminating in a legal dispute resolved with a compensation of 20 million euros in his favor - would be considered the ideal candidate to relaunch Gucci. His unmistakable style, based on rock, photography and a highly recognizable aesthetic, could represent the turning point that the fashion house needs.

However, it remains unclear which creative direction model Gucci intends to adopt. To avoid an excessive concentration of power, Kering is reportedly evaluating a structure similar to that of Louis Vuitton: the creative director would deal exclusively with the runway collections, while commercial management would be entrusted to a separate team.

A structure that would reflect the statements of Francesca Bellettini, a key figure in the management of the fashion house: «We believe that the strength of the brand should be based 50% on iconic products and 50% on more fashionable and creative pieces».

If this strategy were to be confirmed, the real unknown would be to understand how it could be reconciled with a profile like that of Hedi Slimane. Historically, the designer has never limited himself to designing clothes, but has always built a total aesthetic, taking care of every detail, from advertising campaigns to the visual identity of the brand.

Will he agree to only take care of about sixty runway looks, leaving the rest to a separate team?

What is certain is that Gucci cannot afford any missteps. The fashion house needs strong leadership to win back the market and investors. And March 13, if the rumors are confirmed, could finally be the day of truth.

 

[PDFSD]

If we can trust this information ("to avoid concentrating too much responsibility in just one person") it doesn't sound like Hedi at all.

the design teams is already splitted with Alessandro final years: in commercial collection teams and fashion show teams this is already the case for some years .
it's not a new construction.

same under sds this did not change.

some departments don't even show things to the creative director or just as FYI or final approval.

 

[yslforever]

I think people really overestimate how financially successful these runway collections are in terms of the bottom line. The reality is that these shows are more of an image maker and a base for the merchandisers to work off of. And besides, tthe ready-to-wear is a minuscule part of sales anyway. It's between 5 % and 20 % of annual revenue. That includes commercial pieces. The actual runway pieces from the show probably make up less than 5%.

Which is exactly why Kering needs a big name. Someone who will bring the right "vibe" to Gucci and give a halo effect to all the other products. Hedi can do that. HIs name stands for something. Hiring someone that is good at design but can bring no discernible vibe will not work out. Look at Ancora Sabato. Whilst he had some beautiful pieces here and there, it was boring and nothing unique, and it affected the overall perception of the brand.

And really people, do we want Saint Laurent 2.0 at Gucci? Vaccarello's vision is already becoming a little tired, no? It's the same look, same celebrities, same music, same models, ad infinitum etc etc. Can he really do something fresh? I don't think so. If he goes to Gucci he will do exactly what he is doing now but with Tom Ford-isms and that sleek, soulless, 90s vibe. You can expect things like the G G-String on Anja Rubik etc etc. My eyes are already rolling at the pretentiousness.

But I'd love some GG string at Gucci - in mink - I am so bored of quiet luxury in general, and of whatever Ancora tried to be (a classy lady ?), give me sexy jet-set glamour Gucci back, including Testino and Richardson if necessary.

So obviously neither Hedi nor current AV are suited for my sexy Gucci.

 

[Creative]

I think people really overestimate how financially successful these runway collections are in terms of the bottom line. The reality is that these shows are more of an image maker and a base for the merchandisers to work off of. And besides, tthe ready-to-wear is a minuscule part of sales anyway. It's between 5 % and 20 % of annual revenue. That includes commercial pieces. The actual runway pieces from the show probably make up less than 5%.

Which is exactly why Kering needs a big name. Someone who will bring the right "vibe" to Gucci and give a halo effect to all the other products. Hedi can do that. HIs name stands for something. Hiring someone that is good at design but can bring no discernible vibe will not work out. Look at Ancora Sabato. Whilst he had some beautiful pieces here and there, it was boring and nothing unique, and it affected the overall perception of the brand.

And really people, do we want Saint Laurent 2.0 at Gucci? Vaccarello's vision is already becoming a little tired, no? It's the same look, same celebrities, same music, same models, ad infinitum etc etc. Can he really do something fresh? I don't think so. If he goes to Gucci he will do exactly what he is doing now but with Tom Ford-isms and that sleek, soulless, 90s vibe. You can expect things like the G G-String on Anja Rubik etc etc. My eyes are already rolling at the pretentiousness.

Nailed it. AV has no repertoire and his Saint Laurent, even if desirable in the stores, feels irrelevant in the shows now. I almost forgot there was a Saint Laurent show this season.

At Gucci he will apply the same formula and I feel fashion is craving for something fresh.

Also, as someone said, he has zero vision for bags.

It’s true everything seems to indicate it could be him, but we will have a Frida Gianini + Tom Ford 2.0 and I’m not ready for that 😷

As repeated a million times, the only one that can save Gucci now is Hedi, and of course Kering has money to pay him. They could pay him 50M and it would still be beyond profitable.

 

[HigthaVandah]

Hedi to Polo. (allegedly)

 

[yslforever]

Nailed it. AV has no repertoire and his Saint Laurent, even if desirable in the stores, feels irrelevant in the shows now. I almost forgot there was a Saint Laurent show this season.

At Gucci he will apply the same formula and I feel fashion is craving for something fresh.

Also, as someone said, he has zero vision for bags.

AV hates bags, he despises them, and is very comfortable with the agreement he had with Bellettini : no bags on the runway, no involvement in designing them (except maybe the colour palette).

 

[Xone]

AV hates bags, he despises them, and is very comfortable with the agreement he had with Bellettini : no bags on the runway, no involvement in designing them (except maybe the colour palette).

Really? i didn't know that agreement....but he showed bags before non?
why he hates bags?
Weird that Bellettini agreed. She is a a strange woman.

 

[Creative]

AV hates bags, he despises them, and is very comfortable with the agreement he had with Bellettini : no bags on the runway, no involvement in designing them (except maybe the colour palette).

Yeah I don’t like bags either but Gucci is a bag company, isn’t it?

Also, they need someone strong that can say no to all the garbage they come up with in terms of marketing, campaigns, merch. I feel Anthony is too… nice.

 

[Xone]

W published yesterday an article on Anthony and his time at SL…this is how it ends:

“Not surprisingly, Bellettini, one of the rare female chief executives in fashion, was promoted last fall to overseeing the development of all the fashion labels at Saint Laurent’s parent company, Kering. As for his future, Vaccarello has every intention of continuing on the path he has set at Saint Laurent. “None of this is the result of great philosophical reflections,” he says. “They are all ideas that are spontaneous and intuitive. I work a lot by intuition. When someone asks, ‘Where will you be in two years?’ I don’t know. It is just seeing how things evolve, opportunities that present themselves, encounters that are made. That is what gives life its magic.”

 

[proseccotabis]

Weird that Bellettini agreed. She is a a strange woman.

how shes holding such senior positions i will never understand........

 

[crisistunity]

if it’s not hedi i’m gonna bawl

 

[yslforever]

Really? i didn't know that agreement....but he showed bags before non?
why he hates bags?
Weird that Bellettini agreed. She is a a strange woman.

As far as I can remember twice: one was an envelope-like leather bag, stuck in trousers S/S 2022, and the other time was those big marabout feather bags for F/W 24.

 

[blueorchid]

@HigthaVandah It's because of climate change, the bears are starving! 😪

I still think that Hedi at Gucci makes zero sense.

Also:

You can expect things like the G G-String on Anja Rubik etc etc

This image is gonna give me nightmares, thanks. 🤬

 

[Frederic01]

But I'd love some GG string at Gucci - in mink - I am so bored of quiet luxury in general, and of whatever Ancora tried to be (a classy lady ?), give me sexy jet-set glamour Gucci back, including Testino and Richardson if necessary.

So obviously neither Hedi nor current AV are suited for my sexy Gucci.

When you say “jet set glamour” I immediately think Michael Kors and those advertisements he did with Testino (?) LOL.

Do you really think that aesthetic could still be relevant in the year 2025? I don’t know. You can't really go anywhere interesting with it. IMO "jet set glamour" has reached its finality in a way and should stay in the 2000's where it belongs.

And as for sexy/sensual fashion, I don't know about that either. Just look at Vaccarello. He is stuck in a time warp doing the same slinky sexy thing over and over again. It's tired now. And even when he tries to push the boundary on taste and does something vulgar (I'm thinking that horrendous bum dress on Zoe Kravtiz), it just looks so cringey and dated. We really do need something new. Something fresh and unexpected at Gucci.

 

[blueorchid]

How can jet-set glamour exist when the Concorde doesn't exist in 2025? Jet-set glamour is such a dated concept and I don't think it's the anecdote to "quiet luxury." Travel, even for the 1%, just isn't that luxurious anymore.

@Frederic01 LOL yes, Michael Kors cornered jet-set glamour with those ads People want this... in 2025? (even if it's done via Gucci and not Michael Kors, but Gucci is just about as cheap as Michael Kors now, so...)


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