F/W 09.10 recap: thoughts and your top 10 Collections

[VogueParisLover]

Disappointments
Balenciaga

Hehe, helmut.newton, have you noticed that your avi is from Balenciaga?
I also agree that it was a very bland and boring season.

Highlights:
Balenciaga
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
Nina Ricci
Balmain
Versace

Disappointments:
Marc Jacobs
Prada
Yves Saint Laurent
Alexander McQueen... only a little bit!
Dior
Miu Miu
Rodarte
plus too many more too list...

I hope next season is much better!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Favorite, Stand-out Collections:
Ann Demeulemeester
Givenchy
Hermes
John Galliano
Comme de Garcons
Miu Miu
Prada
Collections I liked a lot:
Manish Arora
Calvin Klein
Christopher Kane
JPG
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
Rodarte
Hated/ Disappointed by:
Balenciaga
Alexander McQueen
Marc Jacobs
YSL
Versace
Still totally, utterly baffled and confused by:
Nina Ricci
Worst of the season:
Valentino, duh.

Favorite individual looks of the season:

(style.com)

 

[chessmess]

paris was absolutely wonderful this year and london blew my mind
milan was the weakest city but even it was strong.
i dont have alot of shows i hated (marc, lv, rodarte)
and im really sick of this pessimistic attitude alot of people view fashion weeks with
its seems like every time i read the threads here they just get more and more disappointed with each season and they choose to highlight the flaws rather than the good bits.

 

[from: sophia]

I loved
Nina Ricci
Jil Sander
John Galliano
Lanvin
Manish Arora
And Jean Paul Gaultier really stunned me and I am usually not a big fan.

New York was awful I have never seen so many bad shows. I was so stunned by how awful I felt Balenciaga and Gevienchy were I just thought they would be great but the were not. Milan was YAWN. London has lost its fun. Paris still is the best by far but it always has been for me (some times london comes close)

 

[cbdas]

Going by cities:

NEW YORK:
Ohne Titel

LONDON:
Marios Schwab
Peter Pilloto
MeadhamKirchoff
Richard Nicoll

MILAN:
Jil Sander(by default)

PARIS:
Haider Ackermann
Bruno Pieters
Ann Demeulemeester
Rick Owens
Sophia Kokosalaki

 

[BerlinRocks]

I won't list all my fav. ...
But in general, I thought this season was better than last season ... But imo that is purely subjective ... when SS09 showed, I wasn't in a good mood ...

I had noticed Paris was a great season in terms of reception - regarding the NY's shows receptions ... Onto here, I've noticed Milan's and Paris' shows have attracted more people than NY did ...

Everybody is talking about the serious comeback of the 80s ... I think this is not something new - when you look at fashion magazines you can see this trend has already been there ... in terms of attitudes and references (Newton's been a huge reference in some magazines) ...
But, I think this comeback is mainly due to the recession - when you are in recession, you generally look into the past. M. Jacobs was a very good example of that attitude, as he did it because he feels NY is dying and he wants to remember what was good when it was BIG ... Though I hadn't really enjoyed the show, imo it was one of the most interesting one in terms of lecture of the decade as he didn't show general looks but individual looks for individual personnalities ... which sum up the 80s ...

We noticed a lot of designers, art directors tried to go back to their basics or sum up what the customers appreciate in their previous collection (McQueen, for instance).

We have seen a lot of black in Paris - especially at the japanese ...

blablabla ....

 

[irulan]

What a season! Until Paris I was under the impression I was watching one long, tauntalising eighties glitzpants review. *shudder*

There were however a few exceptions that brought a wide smile on my face:

Balenciaga: I'm not crazy about Nicolas Ghesquiere. One season I like it, three seasons I hate it. But his soft draping, dimmed colours and fantastic styling really won me over. From time to time, commercial is not that bad.

Bottega Veneta: I can recall every single collection of Tomas Maier's work since I got interested in fashion. This one was just sublime. In a season where everything got sequined I was happy to make the escape to soft and simple land.

John Galliano: Ok, this wasn't really soft and simple land, but it was not recession, it was beautiful in its own right and therefore infinitely precious.

Jean Paul Gaultier: Always in my favourites list, master of desaster JPG and his fabulous, old-school genderbending, parisian whorehouse collection with fine dramatics and even finer garments.

Rodarte: Superficial my a**. I would do anything for these boots.

Really bad were Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and of course the absolutely desastrous Valentino show.

credit: style.com

 

[balmain1914]

When the economic goes down,sex and fur are the best idea for the collection

 

[DJGroove]

satisfied with gaultier (probably my fav this season), givenchy, hermes, lanvin, ann d
liked mcqueen but really expected more. maybe that's unfair
sad about ysl, nina ricci, valentino

 

[cottonmouth13]

here's mine (in order

1. Lanvin - i LOVE this!!! just simply amazing. you can see the creativity in every outfit. mr. elbaz delivered it again! actually, this was supposed to be on my 2nd list with balenciaga owning the top spot. but a sudden change of mind happened to me and i don't know for what reason.

2. Balenciaga - love the draping! so great. plus the printed dresses, lovely.

3. John Galliano - effin' FIERCE!!! all looks great in the show. the models, the hair-and make-up, the SET, and of course, the outfits!!!

4. Gianfranco Ferre - dark but definitely, edgy.

5. Christian Dior - i love the hair.

6. Dolce & Gabbana - i love the big shoulders!!! plus the marilyn monroe inspired outfits, so nice.

7. Rodarte - like with what i have said about galliano's, this one is also effin' FIERCE. this is the first time that i liked a collection of rodarte.

8. Roberto Cavalli - finally, he stoop up and gave us a stunning collection!

9. Missoni - knit was glorified!!! i love it.

10. Louis Vuitton

how about you co-TFSers??? what's yours?

 

[mandolux]

In no particular order

1. Yohji Yamamoto
2. Lanvin
3. Comme des Garçons
4. Rick Owens
5. Alexander McQueen
6. Prada
7. Miumiu (Miuccia rocked this season!)
8. Christopher Kane
9. Givenchy
10. Hermes

I know.. 8 of them are Paris...

runner-ups
Martin Margiela
Bettega Veneta
Jil Sander

 

[mackos]

Lanvin
Prada
Givenchy
Alexander McQueen
John Galliano
Antonio Marras
Kenzo
Ralph Lauren
Missoni
Jean Paul Gaultier

 

[gossiping]

1. Topshop Unique

2. Alberta Ferretti

3. Costume National

4. Michael Kors

5. Nanette Lepore

6. D&G

7. Dolce & Gabbana

8. Alexander Mcqueen

9. Marc Jacobs

10. Christian Dior

 

[Atelier17]

1. John Galliano...Everything has been said already...Simply Masterful, Magic, and Dreamy collection.

2. Alexander McQueen His boldness and his vision were shown again in this Amazing show...Definately one of his shows to remember for years and years!!

3. Marni I loved the fabrics, the accesories, and the jewelery...Such a young and refreshing show.

4. Rodarte This was Rodarte at their best,,They certainly delivered a Fantastic, Fierce one of a kind show.

5. Proenza Schouler Back to basics at Proenza Schouler this time..The guys showed the reason why are they now considered one of new york`s most beloved designers.

6. Haider Ackermann I love how the little details of this show made it so Chic, wearable and yet so high fashion.

7. Miu Miu This was one of the greatest miu miu shows i`ve seen...It definately caught my atention,, it was so lovely, so well constructed,,,just gorgeous!

8. Lanvin So sophisticated, so incredibly chic, the use of fur was certainly the best of the whole season.

9. Jean Paul Gaultier I couldnt have asked for a better show,,,this was breathtaking, everything was exceptional and sooo gaultier!

10. Givenchy: Tisci didnt let anybody down with his beautiful collection,,the feathered details, the transparency and the use of darkness throug the entire show were magnificent.

 

[vogue28]

Balmain
Lanvin
Marc Jacobs
Hermes
Yves Saint Laurent
Chanel

I can't think of 10
Christian Dior would usually be my Top 10. But not this season

 

[Crying Diamonds]

1 - Gianfranco Ferre - I think it must be the best collection I've ever seen. I just adored it. It gave me shivers.
2 - Bruno Pieters - Literally a collection that I wanted to design - just such immense architecture - I want to wear every single piece. And the hoods with corners - sex.
3 - Francesco Scognamiglio - The studded boots the models had trouble walking in and the ultra-modern (almost cliche modern) looks and the sea-life-esque blouses - I adore him and am obsessed with him.
4 - Jaeger London - I loved their first come-back show (two seasons ago) but last season was a bit of a disappointment - they returned this season with a collection I adored. The first collection of the season that I truly loved.
5 - RM Roland Mouret - A typical Mouret collection but totally beautiful with the folds and the lines and the corners - some seriously covetable pieces.
6 - Loewe - An almost ironic take on the house's brand with leather dresses branded with the Loewe name and just general fantastic use of leather as always.
7 - Calvin Klein - Some fantastic pieces. Especially the blazers that have the buttons embossed on them - just wonderful.

I can't really think of three more that I enjoyed thoroughly?

 

[kawing_walker]

this is a horrible season..
i seriously do not want to see the return of 80's..

so!

wunderkind - playful but wearable at the same time
miu miu - one of the most beautiful shows from miuccia prada for a long time and i fall in love with the first sight!! no need to wait for the brianwashing of campaigns and editorials
kenzo - lovely as usual! perfect styling! antonio never disappoints!
chloe - great color palette, and i am so happy for chloe is going back to be the old chloe that i love.
alexander mcqueen - the great depression means nothing to him!! his crazy, memorable collection tell us to be optimistic in this harsh time.
missoni - great styling and layering, and i love the long scarves!! i can image the scene that i would wear the scarves and run on the grasslands, and the scarves flutter in the winds!! hahahahaha, how romantic!
and maybe ysl..

so.. at the moment, they are all i can think of...

 

[nijuyanah]

Absolutely loved: Ann Demeulemeester, Balmain & Rodarte
Others I found quite nice aswell: Yohji Yamamoto, Wunderkind, Jil Stuart & Hermès

But tbh, this season was very dissapointing indeed

 

[momo526]

PRADA
Miu Miu
KENZO
Rolant Mouret
Jonathan Saunders
MARNI
Jil Sander
Christopher Kane
Dries Van Noten
Hussein Chalayan

 

[Mutterlein]

In no specific order:

Lanvin
Haider Ackermann
Bruno Pieters
Donna Karan
Chloe
Jil Sander
Lacoste
Matthew Ames
Marios Schwab
TSE