Smoky Eyes and Red, Red Lips
PARIS — A frisson went through the fashion crowd as a tautly tailored tuxedo, ostrich feathers spilling out from a gauzy top, appeared at the opening of the Givenchy show.
It could only have been a deliberate choice by the designer Riccardo Tisci to stage Givenchy haute couture in the same salon where the late Yves Saint Laurent historically held his shows.
If that were not enough of a clue, the makeup — glittering smoky eyes, red lips and rod-straight hair — had that decadent look of glossy surfaces hiding a sexual charge.
“Early ’70s Paris — erotic,” said Mr. Tisci backstage, while a hip crowd led by the singer Ciara and the front-row fixtures Kayne West and his partner Amber Rose, charged at the hot young designer.
The show was audacious, if frustrating as just 22 models whizzed by in high speed. It was also a powerful statement that the designer wants to rebuild Givenchy couture on the YSL fundamentals of hard and liquid-soft, graphic and vaporous.
Condensed to essentials, the show had tuxedo tail coats with pants, or Bermuda shorts as an alternative, but this tailored geometry was open to boudoir embellishment, from visible bras showing a peek of flesh at the midriff to cascades of ruffles. There were also moments of calm, as in an ink blue column of a dress under a vaporous chiffon cape.
Underscoring the masculine/feminine 1970s vibe were over-the-knee boots or platform sandals appearing below a glitter-green sheer top and pants.
The show deliberately disintegrated into a disco mania of purple and electric blue — a wild rave of evening clothes, calmed by two ball gowns with psychedelic colors on the hem ruffles.
The collection was almost too compressed, as though Mr. Tisci could not leave enough time to savor a thought before taking another bite. But it was strong, upscale and without the street feel seen in his previous collections — nor the louche vision of the 1970s channeled by Tom Ford at Gucci in the 1990s.
The workmanship and the tailoring both spun the message that Givenchy has the true spirit of haute couture — but with a jerky, exhilarating 21st century vibe.
/suzy menkes.
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