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telegraph.co.ukAs Milan basked in a 35deg heatwave, Angela Missoni appropriately took to the outdoors for her spring/summer 2010 showing. She presented her collection in the picturesque, 19th century, galleried courtyard of the Politecnico di Milano, the oldest university in the city.
The audience had a sneak preview of what to expect, as the designer’s daughter, Margarita Missoni – the young ambassador for the family brand – posed in the sunshine in a silver, off-the-shoulder top, and shimmering, knitted, sarong skirt.
“It’s all about raves and festivals,” said Margarita Missoni, who had just spent five days at the Burning Man art and self-expression event in the Black Rock Desert of Nevada.
The collection showed Angela Missoni at her poetic best. The essential pieces were a short top, layered over a body, with a low-slung, sarong skirt, and a float-coat or long, sleeveless vest tossed over the top.
The seemingly simple construction – no zips, minimal seaming and a knot, a wrap or a drape as fastenings or closures – accentuated the richness of the materials. Loose mesh, embroideries with a three-dimensional weave, knots, openwork, lace, tulle and featherweight jersey all appeared in a palette that moved from sun-kissed pastels to sharper tones of lime, turquoise and metallics.
The lean silhouette turned the models into sylphs, gliding on kitten-heel sandals, tied at the ankle in the manner of friendship bracelets. Silver cuffs – worn on bare skin or over the feather-light coats – and tasselled little purses slung around the necks on silver chains, emphasized the gentle exotica of the mood.
Particularly effective were sequined wraps and stoles, worn sari-like over one shoulder, which instantly transformed the looks into perfect party pieces. ends