Givenchy: Seventies Paris For Today
Godfrey Deeny
January 26th, 2010 @ 5:19 PM - Paris
We witness a somewhat Yves Saint Laurent moment at the latest haute couture show by Givenchy staged Tuesday evening in Paris, a stimulating evocation of modern beauty, yet nonetheless one that echoed earlier ideas by the late French master.
It’s generally a sharp criticism to directly compare one designer’s collection to another’s, though not necessarily in this case, as few people are more capable in contemporary fashion that Givenchy’s current couturier, Riccardo Tisci, at creating arresting images.
The similarity was in part due to the fact that Tisci staged this fall 2010 collection in the same grand ballroom, where so many YSL shows were held. Nonetheless, the images of this show did recall the legendary 1976 Carmen collection by the late Saint Laurent himself.
That said the sense of elegant modernism throughout was impressive, from the opening tuxedo pantsuit, delightfully jazzed up at the waist with ostrich, vulture and nandou feathers to a sublime bolero in similar feathers this time in powdery hues. Tisci’s fashion is rarely easy to wear, but the sense of catering to a demanding stylistic elite is, at times, pretty breathtaking.
Every detail is carefully thought out in his shows, right down to the trompe oeil minimalist off white booties. Or even before the show. Tisci’s invitations are miniature works or art in themselves: this season, the latest collector’s item was an hallucinogenic image of goddess’ face, back lit curtains and Pop Art squiggles, capturing the exotic mood of this arty fashion moment.
“Beauty, early Seventies Paris, erotica and, of course, Serge Lutens,” Tisci told FWD post show, referring to the French perfumer and filmmaker, who created the makeup and hair for Vogue shoots by photographers as esteemed as Richard Avedon, Bob Richardson and Irving Penn.
There was certainly a touch of Lutens dark olfactory imagery, which one can see in the “Les Salons du Palais Royal,” perfume house he created in that historic Paris complex.
This is the designer who very much attracts the right crowd, from every A list editor and buyer in fashion, to a cool blend of quirky French beauties – like Joanna Preiss and Lou Doillon – to American icons, from Kanye West to Texas born singer Ciara, who later sang at the post-show dinner.
Tisci, whose aesthetic influences generally include religion, the renaissance of his native Italy and brooding Gothic, has always tended towards dark splendor. That was apparent in this fall 2010 collection, especially in our two favorite looks, an emerald green, head turning column worn by Polish beauty Magdalena Frackowiak, where sequins and beads fought for real estate, and a voluptuous bustier dress in violet and black that seemed to have an undulating life of its own, in the final passage of the show by Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova.
Operatic, opulent and over the top, this was a not to be missed moment in modern couture.
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