“She is a woman that enjoys life and has access to amazing locations and food,” Giannini said after her show. “I see this woman on a cruise in the Mediterranean sea, enjoying her life. She wakes up in the morning and steps out with her diamond studded sandals in hand, ready for the day.” And to help her Gucci woman enjoy life, Giannini played with Gucci’s lighter side. Her collection captured iconic elements of Gucci’s past—the scripted GG logo, the horse bit, and the Jackie-O chic—and morphed it into a collection inspired by the Amalfi Coast of the 1960s.
The first half of the collection played with a nautical theme. Clean stripes and solids in red, white, and blue were shown alongside wide-legged trousers, jersey wrap dresses, and retro-chic prints. A slender pair of jeans was adorned with a butch gold chain. The second half, a series of Positano dresses, was inspired by local craft traditions. Remaining true to the Flora cruise collection that was such a hit, Giannini melded a mélange of Flora prints, tiger, lace, and macramé into sweet dresses and separates. “I worked with a lot of the Gucci history in this collection,” Giannini said. “The silhouette, though, is new. We used a lot of short dresses and flat sandals for the evening, which is quite unusual for us. But at the same time, we played with the fabrics and prints; I think the past of this brand is very important to never forget.”
And the editors in attendance seemed to understand and embrace this vision—something that wasn’t always the case under Fachinetti’s helm. “It was very Gucci, very sexy, and very rich-looking,” said Time Style & Design editor Kate Betts. “I liked the sporty feeling of the first half and those lace dresses in the end. I think Frida made a very good first impression. It was very item-y, which is what resort should be.” Elle fashion director Nina Garcia echoed those sentiments. “I very much enjoyed what I saw. I thought it was very commercial, but I liked it. I thought it was going back to the original roots of Gucci—travel and accessories. Overall, it wasn’t tricky or over-designed. It looked wearable and had a fantastic energy to it.”
Accessories figured prominently. “I loved them,” said Vogue senior accessories editor Danya Unterhalter of the shoes, bags, and jewelry. “I thought the chain black sandals and the classic yet eclectic Jackie-O shape that’s being redone was divine. It was a refreshing resort fashion show.” Giannini showed long, lavish gold chains embellished with diamonds and chunky “bamboo de mer,” heavy bracelets crafted from an exaggerated horse bit. The bags were unstructured and easy. Gucci’s Capri bag featured a new icon for the house: the signature green-red-green webbing merged with a gold chain shoulder strap. Other standouts included totes with ringlets through which silk scarves were interwoven, and a simple navy blue Jackie-O bag with a thoughtful red-blue-red stripe down the side. “The white loafer heels were so chic,” said Nylon accessories director Dani Stahl. “It still felt very Gucci to me. But you know what? Beyond the clothes, I thought Frida herself was very chic. I loved what she was wearing.” Indeed, the shoes—from the classic white loafers done up with a stacked heel to the series of flats that were adorned with precious stones—were a yacht must. Giannini was on the mark in describing her shoes as “a luxurious way of having naked feet.”
Giannini came out at the end in full regalia, unafraid and full of confidence. Wearing a bright orange floral number, she shared an identity with the clothes that she had just sent down the runway, and that reflected in her eyes. No clasping of the hands in prayer position here. “It’s a good buildup to see what spring will bring,” Stahl said. No kidding.
“I’m quite happy, I’m quite happy,” was all Giannini could say when asked how she felt about her first collection and her future at Gucci. With sights set on more daunting things—namely the international press that will surely be scrutinizing every bit of her show in Milan this fall—she looked forward to Spring 2006 ready-to-wear. “We’re seeing a new Gucci woman emerge. So far this is only a glimpse.”