Jean Paul Gaultier: Rushing to the defense of the couture, Jean Paul Gaultier sent out a swashbuckling collection to a soundtrack of clattering swordplay. But even more to the point, Gaultier’s workmanship, which is simply breathtaking, showed just why the couture is worth fighting for. This despite the fact that his atelier has undergone a major move, only recently having been reinstalled in the designer’s hôtel particulier after extensive renovations.
His pack of elegant musketeers, most of them caped, sporting broad, plumed hats and thigh-high boots to match the mood, perfectly played off the smart equestriennes Gaultier introduced at his first Hermès ready-to-wear show last March. And here, the focus on this branch of the horsey family was resolute. A shirred black fur cape trimmed with a glistening feather collar topped satin boots embroidered with climbing roses. There was a kilt-like tartan cape, a trench cape, a shearling cape, a gold sequined cape and plenty of cowled necklines to match. Suits usually get a big play at Gaultier, but this season there were surprisingly few, and those that did make it to the runway had jackets cut with — you guessed it — caped backs.
Meanwhile, Gaultier’s evening looks delivered a high polish to the affair. There were capes at night, too — one a play on the tailcoat, another taking its cue from Zorro’s gear. But the rigor of all that swashbuckling finally melted into something less severe, as a glorious harlequin cape bordered with fur was pulled around a draped satin stunner and another one, of the luxe, hand-painted variety, topped an electric pink cowled gown.
The delicate workmanship shone throughout. But for all its galloping glamour, where Gaultier’s collection fell short was in the endless repetition of the caped-cowled-and-booted theme, a gimmick that turned too costumey at times. And if you’re not a caped-crusader type — well, this may be the season to look elsewhere. As the Three Musketeers used to say, “All for one and one for all,” and here that battle cry certainly rang true