^^^ I always think Jean Paul and Martin are kindred spirits. Besides their professional connection, they're the only designers that have that Marcel Duchamp wit, spirit and energy about them.
It's kind of unusual how much I always admire Gaultier's vision but have never owned a single piece of his design. I think he's the designer that other designers take/borrow/steal from, whether it's a deliberate effort on their part, or just unconsciously. The man is brimming with ideas-- not so much now, but if you look back at his collections from the 1980s all the way to the early 2000s, he was always way way way ahead of the pack. And it's that enduring characteristic of his that still has me rooting for him.
I see traces of his former collections in this one: Particularly from his severely graphic S/S 1990 collection. The inside-out tailoring, the graphic, layered lines, the infusion of skirt and pant... Retreads are usually a sign of running out of ideas, but with Gaultier, this can be forgiven since he's given the fashion world so much. Tisci's shorts over leggings are really "borrowed" from Gaultier's past collections (as with much if his menswear designs), so to see Gaultier revisit this styling, just shows how influential he really is.
I really like his take on the trench. How many variations has he done now...? I appreciate the rest-- it is very Gaultier, but it's also not anything new or exciting, and it's missing the amazing color-palette I always expect from him as well. And I think it's the choice of fabrics and patterns that turn me off here. Maybe I'm just so hopelessly bourgeois at heart-- If they had been more luxurious with a stronger "Gaultier" color-palette, It think this would be an outstanding collection. It sort of looks unfinished as it is...
Thanks badbloodless for the pics!