Jil Sander Mens by Raf Simons S/S 07 Milan

[arlekindearrabal]

^rem is rem koolhaas

 

[gius]

Thanks! Oh! He's an architect

 

[Zazie]

Yes, Rem Koolhaas/OMA designed all the Prada boutiques in the US and they collaborate on the Prada shows for the set-ups. This was in answer to juice major's earlier post, I think.

 

[visconti]

Here are a couple of shots of spring pieces. The color and sheen of the fabric is much stronger than than the style.com shots could duplicate. There will be a few additional colors for men (not duplicative of the women's collection), but the basic runway palette is all that is available right now. I'll try to post pictures of the other colors as I get to see them.

I wasn't a fan of the orange in the initial photos, but it's now my favorite of the three. It'll pair well with my existing blacks and greys and possibly a pair of jeans. The orange tee is a basic cotton v-neck, but the other two are cotton and a touch of elastic. They're closer to the runway shape. It's difficult to see in the photos, but the seam detailing on the red and blue shirts is different than average. Rather than having the seam run along the top of the shoulder, it has been moved to form a diagonal line on the back. This may sound inconsequential, but as Zazie pointed out in the comparison between "similar" JS and CK shirts, it makes a big difference. The shoulder is smooth and not "interrupted" by the stitch. You can see the back in the attached photo, but it's somewhat unclear because the colors are difficult for my little camera. The neckline is different too. It not a very big opening, so it gives the shirt a more structured or rigid look than your average tee. This is in step with uniformity or robotic aspects of the season's presentation.

I think they make a wonderful addition to a S/S wardrobe. While it may be difficult to pull off the colors in coats/dressier shirts, it's great to have these really striking casual pieces. Again drawing on what Zazie said in the F/W thread, it's "about amplifying one feature/concept (the cut, the colour, the fabric, the detailed construction, etc.) to deafening proportion and purity while curbing others". These'll hold up. Maybe I'll never need to buy another red t-shirt. I don't see how it could be improved.

If you're concerned about the fit of the t-shirts, there's no need to worry. The smalls fit tightly. There may be some variation that is cut looser, but it is by no means your only option. There is the annoyance of a small logo on back (right below the collar), but unfortunately there's been no convincing whoever makes these decisions to release two versions of the basic shirts.

I'm also very excited to share some pictures of the Ecuador- that controversial tent-like coat. If you live near any of the stores it's definitely worth making a trip in to see. The material is comparable to a plastic coated waxed paper. As you can see it has a subtle graph/grid pattern and is translucent. The buttons are made of clear plastic.

The stitching and lines on the shoulders/arms are very impressive. As you can see from the photo of the coat hanging in my kitchen, it has a real presence. Even when hanging alone, it keeps that shape. I have difficulty refraining from just staring at it.

There is an issue with the sound that it makes. It's akin to rustling tissue paper- or even louder if you're moving quickly. It's enough to terrify my cat!

If you were curious, I'm not actually going to own it, but it was impossible to resist the opportunity to see it up close. My true size would have to be specially ordered. I can't speak for Europe, but only a few have been ordered for the US stores. As my friend describes it, it's more of an "art piece" and a display of Raf's design mastery than a practical day to day item. If you were to consider it, you should go down a size to get a proper fit.

I hope these pictures will help you appreciate it. If only I could afford to have a piece that I'd only wear once or twice a season. I feel very honored to have gotten to spend enough time to really appreciate it. Down the road, when this collection is long out of stores, at least people will be able to get a sense for the material in this thread.

 

[Zazie]

You got *the* coat.... I'm envious! Seriously, those are cool pieces, that crimson orange is unique, not just any orange. That matter of the label...it's probably of no consequence, they're all unmistakably Jil Sander from a mile down the street!

 

[Miss Galliano]

i don't like this collection quiet boring

 

[*sayan]

Great coat. congrats. wear it at the supermarket .

 

[nqth]

I love the blue:-) Congrat!

 

[visconti]

I learned a few more tempting bits of information. The collection is based around the idea of making pieces that look heavy or at least very "solid"/able to hold their shape, but in reality are extemely light. So, to the casual eye, the pants may look almost identical to the heavier, winter ones, but they'll be much more comfortable for warm weather.

The same goes for a lot of the jackets. They're using a lot of synthetics that are very light weight, but can be dyed very dark, while still picking up multiple colors/textures in the light.

I'm also very excited about the fabric for the suiting. They're calling it an "advanced slim fit" that my friend described as being stretchy. almost like pantyhose. It just goes to show that there's a lot of innovative fabric research that can't be appreciated from low quality runway shots.

I can't wait to touch these fabrics for myself!

 

[arlekindearrabal]

thanks for all the interesting tidbits, visconti...

no matter how noisy it may be, i'd still wear that blue coat, if i ever had the chance..

 

[ithaka]

Wow Visconti, thanks for the piccies - the details are quite impressive. Wonder if Selfridges might bring in the coat -- anyone has any idea if they would bring it in if I try to order with them now, or would it be too late already? Also does Simons do them in smaller sizes like 44? The smallest sizes I've seen so far are 46... which kinda sucks for a small guy like myself...

 

[visconti]

I've never dealt with Selfridges, but if they're willing to stock it, it shouldn't be too late to order one. The coat I had on approval was literally the first shipment of the season and if I were to keep one, we were going to special order a 46 or a 44 depending on the way the neck looked etc. So, yes, he does do 44, but I think it's mainly a special order. 46 is the smallest I've seen in store too. It is difficult for smaller guys because most everyone is going down a size or two to get a reasonable fit, but when you're already 46 or below, it's a challenge.

I don't know where you're located, but it would also be worth your time to call one of the boutiques and see what they're stocking/able to order. At worst case, you'd have someone to work with if you're really excited about something for next Fall. My understanding was that the US stores were just getting them in 48 and 50 (apart from special orders), but the EU or Asian stores may be hoping to move more of them, so they may have the smaller sizes readily available. I won't have access to my books until the 3rd or 4th, but if you PM me I can look up the contact info for the nearest store.

 

[haoshcn]

I have a Jil Sander leather coat bought from ebay three years ago. It is Italian size 44. YOOX also has quite a few Jil Sander items in size 44. I am definitely sure most European designers make size 44 for menswear, but lots of time such items are made for Asian market, for example Japan, American buyers rarely bother with getting them, which I find a bit ridiculous since you go to any high-end store/boutique in NYC/LA/SF or even Chicago, you see short and slim male Asian customers all the time. If you check some Japanese online stores, you can easily find size 44 from European designers, which are almost impossible to find here in the US except from YOOX.

 

[visconti]

Here are a few more S/S pieces.

The first is one of the polyester runway jackets. It's very light. Sort of like a windbreaker weight. The button closures are very interestingly constructed/sturdy.

The second is a very light cotton with the 1 1/2 breasted closure that was so striking on the runway. As you can see in the detail shots, there's a slight sheen to it and an oddly placed pocket. It's almost as light as paper. Not as flyaway as the grid coat, but incredibly light.

I also uploaded a shot with the two jackets side by side. You can see that the 2 button is slightly darker.

The third wasn't shown on the runway but it's cotton as well. As you can see it has the zipper closure and a single snap with no collar. There's a single semi-hidden pocket on one side. If you look at the second photo, you can see that the lining is the color of some of the grey runway pants and that this orange isn't quite as vivid as the one used for the t-shirts. I don't know if the style of jacket will be produced in more neutral colors, but it wouldn't surprise me.

One thing that may not be immediately noticable in the pictures is how wonderfully constructed the shoulders are. There's no padding, but they really hold their shape.

The grey sweater is also a light cotton. It's hard to fully capture in the photos, but pay attention to the exposed stitches and beautiful shoulder details. It'll be a staple for my summer/fall wardrobe and, at least by Jil standards, is very reasonable.

Finally, here are two more t-shirts. The grid pattern recalls construction of THE coat. I don't think many of these shirts are being done, so if you like them, call the boutique now. They're a little more than the solid ones.

Oh, and just so I don't give the wrong impression, I'm NOT keeping all of these pieces. While I have the assortment, I want to share/compare since many of you may never be able to visit the boutiques. I kept (or will keep) the solid tees from a few posts ago, the grey sweater and the 1 1/2 breasted cotton jacket.

Hopefully I'll get an assortment of dress shirts to pick and choose between in a month or so. Most of those aren't in yet. Barring exceptional circumstances, these'll be the last pieces of outerwear that I'll post for the season. I hope you guys enjoy them.

Oh, and the boutiques are supposedly trying to stock more 44 and 46s, so check with them if you need those small sizes. All of these are size 46 and unaltered, so maybe it'll give you a sense of what size you'd need.

 

[ETROsexualJ]

You have no idea how much I love this coat


from modaonline.it (there are more pics in there of this and other shows)

It's something like $5300. I was disappointed that it was unlined and "flimsy".

 

[ETROsexualJ]

I was just hoping Raf would present a collection like he did last spring..

That wasn't Raf's collection. It was the design team's that was in place when Jil left.
I have this shrit in the white/black and everyone loves it.