Criticism is certainly valid...but I feel that some of what's being thrown at Galliano...and at Ms. Arbus in particular, who is one of the most insightful and honest photographers ever, is more than slightly undeserved, very emotional, not learned. There are, obviously, various ways to interpret the show and his inspirations, which he didn't steal from all that much, if you're familiar with Arbus' work. To me, it's about a personal comfort, a familiarity with self, an assuredness that is usually absent from fashion, which serves to assimilate, to stifle insecurities through the masquing of luxury and false intellectualism.
What's most intriguing about John's presentation is that, from a sorta kinda formalistic point of view, he is not passing judgement on his models. He's simply using them to display his clothing, which is how it's usually done in Paris during fashion week. It's their prescence that makes posters on this forum feel uncomfortable. It's almost as if some don't feel people who look like this should be on a catwalk because their beauty is thought to be...inaccessible (inferior). They don't look like you, they don't look like anything you'd want to look like and so they're inappropriate and should be handled with kid gloves and locked away and not photographed because treating them like you would any model at a fashion show is somehow condescending.
That scares me much more that anything Galliano could put on a runway. And yet, it's designed that way. The fact that he seems to be exploring the more base aspects of human emotion this season is unexpected and laudable.