Louis Vuitton F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Morphe]

This collection feels really.. directionless. Is there a theme here? What's the inspiration behind it? It leaves me cold.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

To me this is an improvement from the spring-summer collection. I think here we can see that slightly ageless, urban cool-girl that is so typical of Nicholas. Sure, it's many themes, but I like that there is something for many different clients.

Though, I don't like that some looks are so overtly styled...

They were obviously looking at Helmut Lang in their research. Just look at those padded jackets, chintz suits and record-trunk bag (designed by HL for LV in 1996) that Freja is carrying.

 

[arlekindearrabal]

Everything is so contrived.

 

[Fiercification]

There's a lot of good stuff here...it is somewhat pedestrian, but Nicolas clearly came down from sci-fi orbit long ago. I like the black coats with the embellishment/necklace and the crustacean/marine life themed jackets; far more successful than whatever he was trying to do with velvet last season!

This stuff will look pretty good in print; once separated from the MAS styling (oops...doesn't NG ban anyone mixing and matching his stuff though?)

 

[Creative]

The 'no design' trend is here to stay. Saint Laurent, Gucci, Vuitton...


A genius shouldn't be showing this clothes. Not at all.

 

[Steddycam91]

Pretty dismaying. Nicolas' work at Balenciaga was so strong, so sharp and so self-assured. Those collections were totally commanding. This just feels so slight and, as others said, contrived. Those slip dresses, while I'm sure very nice and well-constructed, are utterly forgettable. And those drawstrings popping out of the shorts are so arbitrary and gimmicky, like an eleventh-hour add-on to make them look more interesting. And the big yeti fur coats just feel like a lame and desperate attempt at being in-your-face luxe.

 

[gossiping]

i'd not know that this was him, the last two rtw were amazing but this is just average! strange..why did he not bother?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It started off extremely strong and chic but lost it very quickly. I'm shocked at how cheap the fabrics look. The leather looks like vinyl and the metallics; polyester. The printed furs looked like those blankets you see people selling on the street. The colors chosen for the fur pieces was absolutely disgusting. Those knitted looks with the structured sleeves and bottoms reminded me of Cardin and not in a good way. His arrogance is beginning to get on my nerves. With every collection I'm starting to dislike him. As inconsistent as Raf is at Dior he at least has taken risks unlike NG.

 

[Lola701]

It started off extremely strong and chic but lost it very quickly. I'm shocked at how cheap the fabrics look. The leather looks like vinyl and the metallics; polyester. The printed furs looked like those blankets you see people selling on the street. The colors chosen for the fur pieces was absolutely disgusting. Those knitted looks with the structured sleeves and bottoms reminded me of Cardin and not in a good way. His arrogance is beginning to get on my nerves. With every collection I'm starting to dislike him. As inconsistent as Raf is at Dior he at least has taken risks unlike NG.

They are not doing the same job. Bernard Arnault wants RTW to be a new focus for Vuitton. Maybe Nicolas will put more risky collections in the future but it's not the right time to do it.

Raf can afford to do risky collections. Dior has to reinvent itself.

 

[Emmanuelle]

Love the boxes/bags, dunno well ^^

 

[ogepma]

I am part of the minority who absolutely loves this. It is very youthful yet grown up and seems to transcend a wide age range. The opening coat on Freja is divine; takes me back to some of Nicolas's earlier and even more recent works at Balenciaga (Fall 2010 for instance). I also like the shoulders on the dresses and jackets towards the end. Those trunk bags are going to be very popular next season.

Nicolas seems to have been given a mandate to make LV's RTW more accessible to people in terms of wearabilty and even price. In just 3 runway collections, excluding this one, he has defined who he wants the LV woman to be; one who is interested in building an all encompassing mix-match wardrobe. With this collection, that idea has been firmly established and he has started applying a bit more of his earlier design rigour. I expect to see him loosen up over the next couple of seasons but clearly he is evolving the brand at a reasonable pace and one can't fault him for that.

 

[squilliam]

The first collection was great, wearable and chic and sophisticated and timeless. It was commercial but certainly not boring, and I wanted nearly every piece. But every collection after gets worse. This one is just dull and forgettable. The only look I like is freja ' s opening, and at this point that's all I can remember. The accessories under him at Vuitton are still bland and not particularly nice looking, he used to make such great shoes and bags at balenciaga, why does he make ugly accessories here?

 

[MON]

Props for being wearable. With that said...

pause, pause, pause

the first fur coats were captivating. It had me there... but after the black coat, I just got lost. This is a pedestrian collection at its finest. I don't see the direction. I don't see the inspiration. Nothing. Some looks were good, especially the last few looks. I laughed at the printed white shirts! The Louis Vuitton print looked like it was a wallpaper that was found on Google Images. How cheap.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

stylebistro

style

I can't understand how those two silhouettes can come from the same mind...
The first silhouette shows a great use of fur whereas the second one is just tacky...

Balenciaga was edgy; with a real research on fabrics using high tech finishings and textile treatments. Amazing shoes were part of the Balenciaga silhouette, as pants made of dozen of patterns which were almost objects of art/design...

I'm not buying this "let's give him time bla bla bla". Ghesquière is a self sufficient desifgner who will never be booed by fashion journalists who are too scared to get a seat at the second row during the next fashion week.

First season at Vuitton was ok; this is tragic....

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I thought he played more with silhouettes this season, for example, I liked the impossibly high arm hole with those strange knitted pieces with the trumpet-shaped cuffs and hems, or the appearance of it with the sharp contrasting seam on the sleeve.
There were definitely desirable pieces - the enveloping furs, and the gold jackets and skirts..
But it definitely fizzled out and became very weak.

I can't understand why they'd fork out so much for such an incredible setting (those poor people at the top of the pyramid could see sweet FA) and then have such run-of-the-mill clothes.
Why isn't Ghesquiere making something breathtaking? Don't Louis Vuitton have the millions to support some runway promotion?
It seems ironic that he had to revive Balenciaga and to do so he created the most expensive couture-worthy innovative clothing and floated on new accessories.. and now he's moved to a brand fully founded on accessories with access to millions and he's making this.

I'll fully resent the fact that he seemed to love that gathered puff-sleeve this season as well.. the high street will be bringing out that sleeve pattern again and sewing it to any neon viscose party dress.

 

[masquerade]

Unlike brands like Dior where there is a ton of history, LV ready to wear goes back, what 15 years. Even so, I do see a throwback to Marc's early days with brand, when the clothes were clean and ladylike. It is definitely Nicolas's collection, but there is a clear thread. Its not his strongest work at all, but its still nice and it is wearable. It's a solid B collection.

 

[Creative]

Even so, I do see a throwback to Marc's early days with brand, when the clothes were clean and ladylike.

Thought exactly the same. It has the vibe of Vuitton circa 2000. Feels done already.

This isn't terrible at all, but I really hate it. It's just average. Beyond normal. No twists. Feels mediocre. Everything must be perfectly made, but it looks like a NYFW collection.

This is not why you hire Ghesquière... There are boutique collections more exciting than this. It's depressing to see the only genius working in fashion showing this.

Although I think he has changed a lot in every aspect and it shows in his clothes... Maybe fashion is not his biggest interest anymore.

He has been a total disappointment for me. What a letdown. I had high hopes...

Special mention to the shoes. Those are awful! Who designs them? They used to be beyond amazing under Hardy's leadership.

 

[vetements]

Creative, wasn't aware that hardy designed the shoes for LV's before, only knew he did for Hermes. Yeah, agree LV's shoes were nicer than this.

 

[Creative]

Oops, sorry, I meant when Ghesquiere worked with Hardy at Balenciaga. My fault for being so vague! Who does the footwear for Nicolas now? Is Darren still the accessories designer of LV? Because the bags are also pretty ugly.

In the past, when Marc was at the helm, the shoe designer was Fabrizio Viti I think. Now... I have no clue.

 

[Lola701]

Creative, wasn't aware that hardy designed the shoes for LV's before, only knew he did for Hermes. Yeah, agree LV's shoes were nicer than this.

Pierre Hardy never designed shoes for Vuitton. He is only doing his own line + Hermes shoes & fine jewelry.

Oops, sorry, I meant when Ghesquiere worked with Hardy at Balenciaga. My fault for being so vague! Who does the footwear for Nicolas now? Is Darren still the accessories designer of LV? Because the bags are also pretty ugly.

In the past, when Marc was at the helm, the shoe designer was Fabrizio Viti I think. Now... I have no clue.

Fabrizio Viti is still the shoe designer for Louis Vuitton. Camille Miceli is doing the costume jewelry.