There is something deeply romantic about the way in which these clothes are presented.
My immediate response was that here were more echoes of the Slimane effect. And yet what is interesting is that though they've booked some of the same girls, the wet cement street aggressiveness doesn't repeat itself.
More innocence is present, even if with a nod and wink. The feel overall is more gentle, more insouciant on the surface with something far warmer underneath.
I thought the mens show's gender bending and crotch dropping had more to do with presenting a dialectical dissection of class than anything else and it continues a bit here, the creases and fit lending pieces a hand-me-down, heirloom feel without an ounce of preciousness. A self sufficiency born out of intense yearning brings about more dialectics--the vulnerability of eyeglasses paired with nudity thinly veiled, a farsighted insightfulness.
It is unexpectedly beautiful and perfectly modern in its messy display of warmth, soul and intelligence married with quirk and, sometimes, raunch.