Louis Vuitton F/W 2015.16 Paris

[rebel]

..aesthetically tacky but made super luxurious
-Susie Lau

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT5Q4nzQB54

 

[donyan]

Everything is so contrived.[/QUOTE
agreed

 

[Spike413]

I'm a bit confused by all of the people complaining that this collection feels done or boring or whatever. From where I'm sitting Nicholas' work for Vuitton essentially captures the spirit of fashion right now. He's certainly not the only designer who has ditched the dramatic, inventive and aspirational in favor of the safe and familiar or (worse) the pretentious. In fact the majority of people have made that shift, and the few who swim against the tide seem to end up being bashed for being irrelevant, if not every season than at least on a rotating basis.

I mean yes, we the people who obsess over fashion would love a moment of unbridled creativity and uniqueness courtesy of Mr. Ghesquiere, but the bottom line is that unbridled creativity and uniqueness are no longer in fashion. Can anyone blame him for adapting to the moment and avoiding irrelevance?

 

[Creative]

I mean yes, we the people who obsess over fashion would love a moment of unbridled creativity and uniqueness courtesy of Mr. Ghesquiere, but the bottom line is that unbridled creativity and uniqueness are no longer in fashion. Can anyone blame him for adapting to the moment and avoiding irrelevance?

That's the problem. In the past, he was the leader of the pack and said what was in fashion. Righ now, he's just "another one" doing the same thing as the rest.

Also, you can do a pragmatic collection waaaaay better than this. His firs one wasn't genius but was more decent than this. This is lame to say the least.

And not trying to get personal, but I have the feeling by what I usually read in The Fashion Spot that you have your favourites and all they do is great. I bet no one in the world likes Ghesquière as much as I do... but I'm not biased and this is something irrelevant and plain. Something that could've been done by anyone.

 

[Lola701]

I'm a bit confused by all of the people complaining that this collection feels done or boring or whatever. From where I'm sitting Nicholas' work for Vuitton essentially captures the spirit of fashion right now. He's certainly not the only designer who has ditched the dramatic, inventive and aspirational in favor of the safe and familiar or (worse) the pretentious. In fact the majority of people have made that shift, and the few who swim against the tide seem to end up being bashed for being irrelevant, if not every season than at least on a rotating basis.

I mean yes, we the people who obsess over fashion would love a moment of unbridled creativity and uniqueness courtesy of Mr. Ghesquiere, but the bottom line is that unbridled creativity and uniqueness are no longer in fashion. Can anyone blame him for adapting to the moment and avoiding irrelevance?

I think the reactions are stronger than ever because for the first time maybe, he doesn't dictate. Generally, NG shows are about 1 length for the skirts, one type of pants, one variation on a print. You can generally identify his collections with 2 silhouettes.
-FW 2014 was about skinny pants, A lines skirts, Ski influences
-Resort 2015 was about high waisted wide leg trousers, A lines skirts and pastel colors
etc..

This collection is more of a proposition but to me, the message is still strong. We all know what he can do and i like that he is not doing safe by doing something safe (by his standards).

It's a very "total look" collection. By deciding to not make a statement, he is actually making a statement.
This is relevant for today and for Louis Vuitton.

 

[Spike413]

That's the problem. In the past, he was the leader of the pack and said what was in fashion. Righ now, he's just "another one" doing the same thing as the rest.

Also, you can do a pragmatic collection waaaaay better than this. His firs one wasn't genius but was more decent than this. This is lame to say the least.

And not trying to get personal, but I have the feeling by what I usually read in The Fashion Spot that you have your favourites and all they do is great. I bet no one in the world likes Ghesquière as much as I do... but I'm not biased and this is something irrelevant and plain. Something that could've been done by anyone.

Quite frankly I resent that, and it's a very dismissive way of disagreeing with with my opinion by essentially calling me a fanboy who loves things for no reason other than the fact that a designer I'm obsessed with designed it.

Ignoring the fact that in none of my posts regarding this collection did I rave about how it's the best thing I've ever seen and Ghesquiere can do no wrong in my eyes, I'll be the first to say that I haven't been his biggest fan at Vuitton and there were plenty of his Balenciaga collections that left me cold as well, including his farewell that most people raved about.

Perhaps the next time you're going to dismiss someone's thought out opinion as mere fawning you should probably do a bit more research into that person and how they approach viewing fashion beforehand.

Also, calling something unbiased when it's expressing your opinion means it's not unbiased.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Nothing innovative, strip back and add glitter, you have YSL.

 

[arlekindearrabal]

That's the problem. In the past, he was the leader of the pack and said what was in fashion. Righ now, he's just "another one" doing the same thing as the rest.

Also, you can do a pragmatic collection waaaaay better than this. His firs one wasn't genius but was more decent than this. This is lame to say the least.

And not trying to get personal, but I have the feeling by what I usually read in The Fashion Spot that you have your favourites and all they do is great. I bet no one in the world likes Ghesquière as much as I do... but I'm not biased and this is something irrelevant and plain. Something that could've been done by anyone.

That's exactly what I feel, and it's sad really… I think he's taken this as a money job and its so clear he's just phoning it in at the moment.

 

[reese06]

It took a minute for me to warm up to this collection. Most of the shoes are terrible though. It's not a strong collection but it's pretty. Kind of disappointing that he hasn't really had a bold directive collection during his time at Vuitton yet.

 

[jescajade]

Pierre Hardy never designed shoes for Vuitton. He is only doing his own line + Hermes shoes & fine jewelry.



Fabrizio Viti is still the shoe designer for Louis Vuitton. Camille Miceli is doing the costume jewelry.

Darren Spaziani is the accessories designer now, he worked with Nicolas at Balenciaga previously too, the Petite Malle is cute, none too impressed with the rest of the designs really.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

Maybe he cannot design as great things at a house that has no identifiable archive and stylistic history. At Balenciaga, the forte of his collections was that he took and used very identifiable Cristobal Balenciaga cuts and combined those with something totally different and modern, with a focus on special textiles. The modernity and wow factor came from those elements.

To me, I feel his tenure at Vuitton has turned unfocused and into a bit of a snoozefest. His first collection for the label was amazing and it truly was something I felt was lacking in fashion... but since then it has fallen kinda flat and he seems lost. Just as lost as Raf seems to be at Dior.

 

[perhydrol]

Maybe he doesn't want to produce weird, couture-like collections (as he used to do at Balenciaga, s/s 09 anyone?) because he's been building his own archives and icons? I mean Vuitton's ready-to-wear is only 18 years old and before Ghesquiere there was only Marc Jacobs. Or maybe Nicolas had to be really forward-thinking at Balenciaga because Cristobal was an innovator? Or maybe he's scared- he doesn't want to show his own style, because it would quickly become Vuitton style, just like it happened at Balenciaga?
But I like this collection alot. I just don't get first four looks, they're completely out of touch. The only thing I really hate about the new Louis Vuitton is the whole fake-futuristic vibe, they're trying too hard and it doesn't work with these clothes. Just look at that set- it's too modern for this collection.

 

[cheiby11]

Freja looks like a snowman... ugly collection, hate all that fur

 

[Yohji]

I just find most of the stuff that he's putting out there for Vuitton to be so unappealing. It's almost the antithesis of what he was doing at the beginning of his tenure at Balenciaga. That being said, I do like the shoulder padded dresses towards the end.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Nicolas himself described the collection about how a woman today is exploring her sense of style and that is what we got, this wasn't a push to the future, this wasn't necessarily a reference to the past but it was more about here and now than anything else.

The silhouettes were classic with a futuristic twist with fantastic styling - something I think which has been consistently overlooked is that Nicolas is no longer working with an extensive archive of fashion that is constantly reinterpreted but now he and his team are interpreting the Vuitton archive in a unique way more so with details rather than a certain silhouette because that no longer exists for them to reference so what I find Nicolas doing at Vuitton is far more concentrated on the design factor than having to stay true to the houses' DNA.

What Nicolas has done at Vuitton is a translatable collection that could hit the street instantly, interpretable to the modern woman but what we are seeing here isn't far from the page he left us on at Balenciaga. I think Nicolas is answering to his market, women want clothes they can wear..

I love it all, I just don't want him to be a one trick pony like Hedi at Saint Laurent..

 

[Miss Galliano]

I love this collection..very glamourous.. Loved that first look that white coat is everything.. Very 80's very styllisch and wearable

 

[Phuel]

Completely agree Chanelcouture09 that he's clearly building a very translatable and interpretable collection for women-- and not just a particular type of women.

I feel Vuitton finally has a design direction now with Nicolas. In only a few seasons, the label clearly has a strong and consistent design identity; Versatile sportswear separates with solid touches of luxury.

They never had a design identity when Marc was leading it. Maybe some prefer Marc's schizophrenic collections-- jumping from Miuccia-inspired designs from one season-- to Rei-inspired ones the next because it gives that instant high that so many crave in fashion shows and collection of something drastically different every time...?

Nicolas' collections seemed to be designed to evolve, to be relatable, to establish a practical need.. and to sell. I don't think that's such a horrible decision on his part. And more importantly I think, the clothes actually look like they go with the bags and accessories. I never got that with Marc's offerings.

I'm glad to see Nicolas reigning in and not going all-out with this label. He's observant, intelligent, and shows he understands the practical aspects of the business side of the industry, and the mood of the moment in fashion. He's not some fragile, delicate flower that can only create his way in order to live... He's not one-dimensional, and more importantly, very solidly grounded in his environment. To be able to adapt and assimilate is not a bad thing from someone as talented as him.

Vuitton affords him to show another side of him. I think he's got a lot more to offer and just waiting for the right time to unleash that side.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

When I first saw it, I HATED it and was so disappointed. But then after looking at it several times along with watching the show, I loved it. The coat on Freja is still an abomination, however.
As much as I love the collection, I do still think he's safezoning and I would like him to step out of his comfort zone.

 

[Lola701]

What Nicolas has done at Vuitton is a translatable collection that could hit the street instantly, interpretable to the modern woman but what we are seeing here isn't far from the page he left us on at Balenciaga. I think Nicolas is answering to his market, women want clothes they can wear..

I love it all, I just don't want him to be a one trick pony like Hedi at Saint Laurent..

You said it all. Let's not forget that being at this level and create a very commercial and yet exciting vision for Vuitton is actually a challenge for him. Balenciaga was a niche brand in a way: very exclusive, very creative and almost inaccessible.
At Balenciaga, he showed range. His collections were very personal. He re-created the brand...From the menswear,to the perfumes, it was his vision!

Now, he have to adapt to a system. More than any other brand, Vuitton is link to commerce. At Balenciaga, he could have explored his vision because he was in charge of everything, from the stores to the ads.

I mean, reading some of the comments makes me think that some of the people are in a bubble. 1 year! he is been at Vuitton for only 1 year and you want changes already?
We don't know how his appointment influenced the figures of Vuitton yet, and you want him to do a 360°?

 

[squilliam]

I've had this notion for a while that Louis Vuitton is not a house that has any particular codes for the clothing. There are set codes for the accessories/leather goods, but the clothes are whatever the current designer wants. I don't think Marc Jacobs defined codes for Vuitton. The accessories make so much money that it doesn't matter if the clothes sell, they probably don't even have to have these collections to make a large profit I presume. I feel like Vuitton is a place for a designer to play and do whatever they want, because it's just for spectacle and press. The clothes don't sell that much, and I doubt that many people even know this house makes clothes.The LV store near me only sells accessories, as do the high end stores near me.
It definitely seems like they're trying to get the clothes to sell now and create an identifiable aesthetic for the house now, and I think that's why ghesquiere is making these commercial designs.