Marc Jacobs F/W 2006.07 New York

[sarah13]

Love the brown gloves in that last one.

 

[NickiLee]

Review from Fashion Wire Daily:

http://www.fashionwiredaily.com/articles/article.weml?articles_link=17463&cookie=true

Marc Jacobs’ Street Steppes
By Godfrey Deeny
February 07, 2006 @ 11:29 AM - New York

Nothing was quite what it seemed in the marvelously poetic Marc Jacobs show in lower Manhattan on Monday night. And, after a weekend of banal shows, it was remarkable to see a spectacle that was that very rare thing in fashion – a work of art.

In a wonderfully poetic moment, Jacobs mixed oodles of disparate elements to create a vision of some newly discovered world, recognizable in its parts but not at all in its whole.

That was true about pretty much any component of this extraordinary show, beginning with the giant wooden set and dual catwalk itself. Was it a Constructionist battlement or some view of the Urals, over which the designer flew on his recent jaunt between Hong Kong and St Petersburg? Neither, it turned out – but “a fractured New York City,” Jacobs told FWD post-show.

Or take the surging soundtrack - Holst thought somebody, or a Shostakovich score for a Soviet era movie. Nope, but instead the Heroes Symphony by Brian Eno and Phillip Glass.

“I said that the show was inspired by my trip to Russia and Hong Kong, but as this was a business trip for Louis Vuitton, you never really see much anyway,” he cracked.

Featuring Tartar fur hats, foragers' boots and Mongolian upturned snow shoes, there was plenty of Russian imagery, though always with a Western urban streak.

The packed out audience of some 2,000 in the Armory on lower Lexington Avenue was focused on the footwear from the get go, as the shoes' late arrival from Europe meant tardy fittings and a show that started two hours after its scheduled slot. One side effect was, unusually for a Jacobs show, the lack of any detail on the clothes in the program notes. Though its cover did carry a poignant dedication to the late, great Kal Ruttenstein; “We will miss you,” it read.

The footwear turned out to be pretty revolutionary, from patent leather Rodchenko like platforms in black or gold and enormous construction boots to floppy performed suede boots and bulbous schoolmarm socks. Suddnely every woman at the event was shod in redundant shapes.

With every ankle covered on Marc’s super hip model casting, the amazing footwear seemed like on inversion of the whole Victorian idea of the eroticism of the ankle. Somehow Jacobs reversed this and made being covered up seem sexy.

Mentioning Nike and sports references, Jacobs added that he wanted the whole collection to look “very street,” which is a tad ironic given the returning from the country market look of many of the heavily layered looks. Made in heavy, heavy fabrics like hefty check tweeds, padded cottons and clumpy woolens, there was a sophisticated bag lady feel, again ironically given most of the models carried large, opulent bags.

Like his twisting runway, which took a dramatic U-turn, Jacobs suddenly switched gears for evening, with some gorgeous dresses in a mish mash of decomposed sequins, distressed gold and black tulle with the penultimate look on Lily Donaldson, the item everyone will want to shoot.

A work of art, did we say? Yes, in the very real sense that by the power of his imagination and the skill of his huge cast and backup team Jacobs in those 12 minutes transported his privileged audience into a whole world they never knew existed. And, won’t ever catch again, for a film will fail to capture the majesty of the moment.

 

[Spike413]

So many pieces in there, it's like his Tim Burton collection of last fall collided with his infamous grunge collection and landed on the fall 2002 runway. Some of the styling was too much (the socks, could've done without them) but overall I like it. But I'm always a fan of that reverse luxury thing, taking incredibly made pieces and wearing them with the everyday. The standouts, for me anyway, were the tattered sequined pieces that closed the show....so beautiful. My only complaint, some of it felt a bit too bulky and imo that took away from the beauty of it.

A few favorites

style.com

And I kind of love/hate the shoes....can't decide which.

 

[seeing_double]

^is that a train off vlada's shirt...it's gorgeous (even though impractical)

and I agree with spike, I think the sepquined gowns really stole the show. They are magnificent.

 

[seeing_double]

mens...?

getty images

 

[seeing_double]

^nvmd...thats marc by marc

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Agreed, Spike. The first and fourth looks you posted were my other favorites (the skirt and the coat).

As usual, the heels are too high for me to wear IRL ... not to mention a bit extreme. I kinda like all these open variations on the wedge we're seeing. But these shoes and boots are def impressive.

As far as YSL, sure, YSL paved the way for heavy-heeled shoes, but these are significantly different/original as far as I know.

 

[em 692]

Originally Posted by Spike413:
My only complaint, some of it felt a bit too bulky and imo that took away from the beauty of it.

i agree. i thought the bulky-ness looked rather dowdy.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^is that a train off vlada's shirt...it's gorgeous (even though impractical)

and I agree with spike, I think the sepquined gowns really stole the show. They are magnificent.

Yes, there was a train ... she moved it gracefully with her hand as she went around the U (I watched the video, which is up on MJ's site). Btw, the video really makes you wonder about the directions backstage ... "You are bleary-eyed and tired, possibly hungover, and you are pissed off at the cameraman, so either look down or give him your dirtiest look as you go by." Something like that

 

[fouroclock]

When I opened this thread, I thought I would see East Village stuff, but this stuff is a move "up" to the more ladylike pieces. But it's still him.

I'm iffy about the materials of the non-dressy stuff though.

 

[MUXU]

overall im kinda dissapointed with this season..=T
though i do like particular pieces and outfits..but as a whole...they look too..TOO free formed..

 

[Jane Loves Marc]

ohmygod. Thse are god-awful...and this is coming from a big Marc fan...I'm so dissapointed. It's like piled on pre-school teacher wear.

 

[Kimkhuu]

some pieces are too unflattering....

i love some of the skirts though...: the ones that are supposed to look like you wrapped a jacket around your waist.... ...very nice...!

 

[juzuxel]

To be Honest some of the dresses are really unflatering and unoriginal... But some stuff is nice and they have a suprising twist. I think this is one of MJ's best collections...

 

[seeing_double]

Yes, there was a train ... she moved it gracefully with her hand as she went around the U (I watched the video, which is up on MJ's site). Btw, the video really makes you wonder about the directions backstage ... "You are bleary-eyed and tired, possibly hungover, and you are pissed off at the cameraman, so either look down or give him your dirtiest look as you go by." Something like that

I just watched it...and wow, she really does move it gracefully. I love that piece.

 

[urbanite]

Marc Jacobs has vision and can design - Fine. But every season there is so much hype and I honestly do not understand it.

When I look at this show, the first thing I see is the styling. Innovative, cool. But start taking it apart and I just don't see many of these individual pieces looking so "cool". So for all these people who "love it, love it", I'm just really curious, what do you really love?? And don't say a handbag or hat.

And I totally disagree with Suzy Mendes' comment: "Jacobs proved that he has a powerful vision and is way ahead of the pack", because he is covering up this season. Designers have been covering up more of the body with layers, boho-inspired, tights, bulky sweaters, etc, etc. for the past few seasons, if not years now.

I do love the socks though - but is this really so innovative?? It's more like the grown up version of leg warmers...

 

[dizzytacks]

The BEST COLLECTION I HAVE EVER SEEN!!!!!!!!! IN MY LIFE!!!, Marc is the ultimate genius of fashion!!!!

all from style.com


what a genius!!!!

 

[Caffeine]

regarding the comments about usign other people's designs...
Marc uses real people as inspiration, so whatever spirit or some elements of fashion on streets, he will make it and push it to a pure style. So if you dig into all the elements, of course everything has a source. On the constrast, some people designs from nothing or concepts, so maybe something fresh will show up. However, fresh ideas don't always translate to a valid style for real people. So I would say that there are just two kinds of designers, and it's just that they have different ways of design. If Marc can make the styles cool and wearable, then he is a great designer. CDG is great, but what % of clothes can we find from her collections to wear? Then what % of clothes from the Marc collection can we wear? They are simply designers with different purpose/goals.

 

[fashionistasista]

look - im sorry to go against the style master and be so black and white - but god this is UGLY!!!!
some pieces are nice and yes its grungy but im all ready to call up my grandma who lives on a farm with no running water and call her a trendsetter because she wears practically his whole line!!
i can appriciate the overall feel but please no paring the shoes with thick war ration socks please!!!

 

[Pastry]

So many pieces in there, it's like his Tim Burton collection of last fall collided with his infamous grunge collection and landed on the fall 2002 runway. Some of the styling was too much (the socks, could've done without them) but overall I like it. But I'm always a fan of that reverse luxury thing, taking incredibly made pieces and wearing them with the everyday. The standouts, for me anyway, were the tattered sequined pieces that closed the show....so beautiful. My only complaint, some of it felt a bit too bulky and imo that took away from the beauty of it.

first of all...some very nice comments on this page..spike, yours i enjoyed so so much..

secondly...spike..get out of my head! i just posted that fact that this season marc jacobs alluded to his fall 2002 collection in another thread..

..something else i'd like to point out in this thread also-you know how some people have been saying that jacobs doesn't have a signature? maybe he doesn't..yet. imo, he's only been getting good in the last couple of seasons, and wouldn't it be wonderful if he ditched his character of extremes and focused on this..grunge? he's always talking about 80's new york and young people, how it was...anyway, he's fascinated by adolescence and maybe that should be his signature. it always was in a way, but some collections have really left me thinking... (cough spring 2005 cough)

oh yeah, for those who have watched the video on marcjacobs.com wasn't the catwalk so cool? it reminded me of cracked ice...

and so far, the skirt with the train worn by vlada roslyakova is my favourite piece..