source: telegraph.co.uk
New model army
(Filed: 29/01/2006)
They used to come in all shapes and sizes.
Then they wouldn’t get out of bed for less than $10,000. So what will define this year’s new faces? Charlotte Williamson picks five models to look out for in 2006
‘Timeless’ must be one of the most overused – and misused – words to describe a new face on an agency’s books. For a model’s beauty is very much of its time, her body shape reflecting the must-have silhouette, her face personifying the decade’s ideal, and her overall look summing up what, exactly, is in fashion.
The waif: Felicity Gilbert is one of the new faces to look out for in 2006While certain criteria do indeed remain timeless – blue eyes photograph better than brown, for instance; ditto a naturally up-turned mouth – other characteristics become quirks. Take Marion Morehouse, the 1920s model with a haughty demeanour whose willowy figure was perfect for unforgiving flapper frocks. Or Cindy Crawford, whose bigger-thanmodel- average build encapsulated the healthy look of the early 1990s.
The prototype as we know her – 5ft 8in, a size eight and with a blank-canvas face – is a curiously modern invention. Before the prêt-à-porter days, when fashion shows were confined to the salons of Paris, a variety of body types – fat, thin, short, tall – was used for each collection, the idea being that the prospective buyer would clock the mannequin closest to her shape, noting the most flattering design for her figure.
It wasn’t until the 1970s, in fact, that Amazonians started to appear. The reason was simple: fashion shows had moved into larger spaces such as tented arenas that needed tall girls to command the room. The cult of the model subsequently grew and grew, culminating in the ‘supers’ who wouldn’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 – the Linda Evangelistas and Christy Turlingtons.
It has been 15 years since the supermodels ruled the runway, a dominance that ended when the girls started eclipsing the clothes – the ultimate model sin. Since then, we’ve seen the antisupers (Kate Moss, Kristen McMenamy, Karen Elson) and the Brazilians (in effect, the anti-anti-supers, like Gisele).
For the past couple of years, though, the catwalk has been filled with Eastern Europeans – Natalia Vodianova, Carmen Kass, Karolina Kurkova – to such an extent that Vanity Fair shot a whole troop of them in white bikinis for its April 2005 cover.
A number of factors make a model super today: opening a high-profile catwalk show such as Prada’s, for instance, fronting a campaign for one of the big fashion houses (Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel), or appearing in a shoot for Italian Vogue, the most directional edition from which other fashion magazines take their lead.
This year’s big models are again mostly Eastern European but with a more aloof, more elegant beauty. ‘Cyborg chic is hot right now,’ believes Wayne Sterling, the editor of Models.com, a website that tracks a model’s success through campaigns, shows and spreads. ‘The insider fashion pack like Prada, Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga loves a kind of “remote-control beauty” defined by disassociated beauties like Sasha and Snejana. Our digital times have given us android models. Even in person these girls appear to be photoshopped to perfection.’
After the Russians and Estonians, then, what nationality is being touted as the next big thing? ‘Sameness is the big sell now, so I can’t see a single country being dominant,’ predicts Sterling. ‘Instead, whether a girl is Brazilian, English, Russian or Chinese, the important thing is that she has the same idealised features as all the other girls on the runway: oval face, pristine skin, slanted eyes, high cheekbones and very, very long limbs. I guess that’s globalisation for you.’
The following five girls have been tipped for the top in 2006.
The silver-screen siren
Name Snejana Onopka
Age 19
Background Originally from the Ukraine, Snejana moved to the capital Kiev at 15 where she was spotted by a foreign scout. In the past year she has managed to do all the big runway shows in Paris, Milan and New York, has shot some of the most heavyweight campaigns and has snagged not one but two Italian Vogue covers
Vital statistics 5ft 9in; 33-23-33; blonde hair; blue eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Nadja Auermann, another model famous for her old-school-glamour looks: Snejana’s face bears more than a passing resemblance to Greta Garbo’s
Career highlights Catwalk shows include all the big ones: Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Alexander McQueen, Chanel and Givenchy
What’s new for 2006? Campaigns for Yves Saint Laurent – shot by Juergen Teller – Dolce & Gabbana and Lanvin
What they say about her ‘Snejana embodies the sprit of the Yves Saint Laurent woman’ (a representative for YSL)
What she says ‘I would most like to walk down the runway to “My Prerogative” by Britney Spears’
The chameleon
Name Sasha Pivovarova
Age 20
The chameleon: Sasha Pivovarova has been described as 'exquisite'Background The Moscow native was studying fine art when a photographer friend showed some prints of her to an agency. She still hopes to become an artist and is often spotted doodling backstage at the shows
Vital statistics 5ft 10in; 34-24-34; blonde hair; blue eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Christy Turlington, another model known for her versatility. Sasha’s icy stare makes her instantly recognisable yet she can also be styled into a classic bourgeois beauty
Career highlights After she opened the autumn/winter 2005 Prada show, her popularity has soared. Subsequent shows have included Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, Chanel and Givenchy. She was on the cover of the December 2005 Italian Vogue and has been shot for British and French Vogue
What’s new for 2006? Sasha is the face of Prada for the second season running, a rare feat indeed
What they say about her ‘Sasha is an exquisite, straightforward beauty who perfectly suits the general trend towards more sophisticated, womanly clothes. She’s also got a terrific personality, loves her job and has the sort of character that can really make a shoot’ (Harriet Quick, fashion features editor, British Vogue)
What she says ‘I would like to be on more covers – they’re always really nice to do’
The English rose
Name Rosie Huntington Whiteley
Age 19 Background Rosie had done post-GCSE work experience at a modelling agency, popped back the following year to say ‘hello’ – and was promptly signed up. Originally from Devon, she is now based in London and New York
Vital statistics 5ft 91/2in; 32-24-34; dark brown hair; blue/green eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Stella Tennant, who epitomised patrician cool in the 1990s. Rosie is a distant relative of Queen Victoria, something that must surely help
Career highlights Campaigns so far include Tommy Hilfiger, SportMax, LAMB and Abercrombie & Fitch, and she has been shot by Ellen von Unwerth, Bruce Weber and Corinne Day
What’s new for 2006? Rosie has just done the Paul Smith Women campaign as well as the spring/summer campaigns for DKNY and Zara
What they say about her ‘Rosie is one of the few models I have worked with who has a true “British spirit”. She’s feisty, fun and charismatic, and not at all preoccupied with her looks’ (Tim Bret-Day, photographer)
What she says ‘I would most like to work with Mert and Marcus [they shot Kate Moss for the most recent Roberto Cavalli campaign] as they never fail to make women look absolutely flawless. And my favourite food? Fillet steak and chips’
The waif
Name Felicity Gilbert
English beauty, Felicity has been compared to Kate Moss
Age 20
Background From Bishop’s Stortford, Felicity is another work-experience success story: she was working as an intern for a fashion PR who recommended she visit the Storm agency. She walked through the doors and was signed immediately, despite being too short for the catwalk
Vital statistics 5ft 6in; 32-23-33; light blonde hair; blue eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... elfin beauties like Kate Moss and Audrey Marnay Career highlights Her first job was for British Vogue with the superstar photographer Paolo Roversi. Since then she has done Italian, French and Japanese Vogue
What’s new for 2006? Felicity is rumoured to be fronting the new Chloé campaign What they say about her ‘Not only does she pick up her clothes after a shoot, she folds them and puts them away’ (an anonymous fashion assistant)
What she says ‘People say all these things about my face. There are lots of other things that are important’
The ingénue
Name Tania Dziahileva
Age 14 Background Belarus-born Tania is the baby of the bunch. These days it is commonplace for agencies to sign up models while they’re still young; the scouts then cross their fingers that the girls will grow into their looks. Tania already has, thanks to a perfect mane of hair and super-long limbs. She has just moved permanently to London
Vital statistics 5ft 11in; 34-24-34; blonde hair; green eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Milla Jovovich, another successful teen model
Career highlights So far Tania has appeared in a veritable rainbow coalition of Vogues – British, Russian, Japanese, Chinese and Italian
What’s new for 2006? The latest Yves Saint Laurent campaign and Hugo Boss
What they say about her ‘I was looking through about 300 Polaroids of girls, saw Tania and she just stood out. She was amazing: the face, the hair, the legs, the whole vibe. I just couldn’t stop thinking about her’ (Sarah Doukas, managing director of Storm)
What she says ‘What do I love? Alexander McQueen, Prada, Chanel, Kate Moss and the energy of London’
New model army
(Filed: 29/01/2006)
They used to come in all shapes and sizes.
Then they wouldn’t get out of bed for less than $10,000. So what will define this year’s new faces? Charlotte Williamson picks five models to look out for in 2006
‘Timeless’ must be one of the most overused – and misused – words to describe a new face on an agency’s books. For a model’s beauty is very much of its time, her body shape reflecting the must-have silhouette, her face personifying the decade’s ideal, and her overall look summing up what, exactly, is in fashion.
The waif: Felicity Gilbert is one of the new faces to look out for in 2006While certain criteria do indeed remain timeless – blue eyes photograph better than brown, for instance; ditto a naturally up-turned mouth – other characteristics become quirks. Take Marion Morehouse, the 1920s model with a haughty demeanour whose willowy figure was perfect for unforgiving flapper frocks. Or Cindy Crawford, whose bigger-thanmodel- average build encapsulated the healthy look of the early 1990s.
The prototype as we know her – 5ft 8in, a size eight and with a blank-canvas face – is a curiously modern invention. Before the prêt-à-porter days, when fashion shows were confined to the salons of Paris, a variety of body types – fat, thin, short, tall – was used for each collection, the idea being that the prospective buyer would clock the mannequin closest to her shape, noting the most flattering design for her figure.
It wasn’t until the 1970s, in fact, that Amazonians started to appear. The reason was simple: fashion shows had moved into larger spaces such as tented arenas that needed tall girls to command the room. The cult of the model subsequently grew and grew, culminating in the ‘supers’ who wouldn’t get out of bed for less than $10,000 – the Linda Evangelistas and Christy Turlingtons.
It has been 15 years since the supermodels ruled the runway, a dominance that ended when the girls started eclipsing the clothes – the ultimate model sin. Since then, we’ve seen the antisupers (Kate Moss, Kristen McMenamy, Karen Elson) and the Brazilians (in effect, the anti-anti-supers, like Gisele).
For the past couple of years, though, the catwalk has been filled with Eastern Europeans – Natalia Vodianova, Carmen Kass, Karolina Kurkova – to such an extent that Vanity Fair shot a whole troop of them in white bikinis for its April 2005 cover.
A number of factors make a model super today: opening a high-profile catwalk show such as Prada’s, for instance, fronting a campaign for one of the big fashion houses (Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel), or appearing in a shoot for Italian Vogue, the most directional edition from which other fashion magazines take their lead.
This year’s big models are again mostly Eastern European but with a more aloof, more elegant beauty. ‘Cyborg chic is hot right now,’ believes Wayne Sterling, the editor of Models.com, a website that tracks a model’s success through campaigns, shows and spreads. ‘The insider fashion pack like Prada, Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga loves a kind of “remote-control beauty” defined by disassociated beauties like Sasha and Snejana. Our digital times have given us android models. Even in person these girls appear to be photoshopped to perfection.’
After the Russians and Estonians, then, what nationality is being touted as the next big thing? ‘Sameness is the big sell now, so I can’t see a single country being dominant,’ predicts Sterling. ‘Instead, whether a girl is Brazilian, English, Russian or Chinese, the important thing is that she has the same idealised features as all the other girls on the runway: oval face, pristine skin, slanted eyes, high cheekbones and very, very long limbs. I guess that’s globalisation for you.’
The following five girls have been tipped for the top in 2006.
The silver-screen siren
Name Snejana Onopka
Age 19
Background Originally from the Ukraine, Snejana moved to the capital Kiev at 15 where she was spotted by a foreign scout. In the past year she has managed to do all the big runway shows in Paris, Milan and New York, has shot some of the most heavyweight campaigns and has snagged not one but two Italian Vogue covers
Vital statistics 5ft 9in; 33-23-33; blonde hair; blue eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Nadja Auermann, another model famous for her old-school-glamour looks: Snejana’s face bears more than a passing resemblance to Greta Garbo’s
Career highlights Catwalk shows include all the big ones: Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Alexander McQueen, Chanel and Givenchy
What’s new for 2006? Campaigns for Yves Saint Laurent – shot by Juergen Teller – Dolce & Gabbana and Lanvin
What they say about her ‘Snejana embodies the sprit of the Yves Saint Laurent woman’ (a representative for YSL)
What she says ‘I would most like to walk down the runway to “My Prerogative” by Britney Spears’
The chameleon
Name Sasha Pivovarova
Age 20
The chameleon: Sasha Pivovarova has been described as 'exquisite'Background The Moscow native was studying fine art when a photographer friend showed some prints of her to an agency. She still hopes to become an artist and is often spotted doodling backstage at the shows
Vital statistics 5ft 10in; 34-24-34; blonde hair; blue eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Christy Turlington, another model known for her versatility. Sasha’s icy stare makes her instantly recognisable yet she can also be styled into a classic bourgeois beauty
Career highlights After she opened the autumn/winter 2005 Prada show, her popularity has soared. Subsequent shows have included Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, Chanel and Givenchy. She was on the cover of the December 2005 Italian Vogue and has been shot for British and French Vogue
What’s new for 2006? Sasha is the face of Prada for the second season running, a rare feat indeed
What they say about her ‘Sasha is an exquisite, straightforward beauty who perfectly suits the general trend towards more sophisticated, womanly clothes. She’s also got a terrific personality, loves her job and has the sort of character that can really make a shoot’ (Harriet Quick, fashion features editor, British Vogue)
What she says ‘I would like to be on more covers – they’re always really nice to do’
The English rose
Name Rosie Huntington Whiteley
Age 19 Background Rosie had done post-GCSE work experience at a modelling agency, popped back the following year to say ‘hello’ – and was promptly signed up. Originally from Devon, she is now based in London and New York
Vital statistics 5ft 91/2in; 32-24-34; dark brown hair; blue/green eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Stella Tennant, who epitomised patrician cool in the 1990s. Rosie is a distant relative of Queen Victoria, something that must surely help
Career highlights Campaigns so far include Tommy Hilfiger, SportMax, LAMB and Abercrombie & Fitch, and she has been shot by Ellen von Unwerth, Bruce Weber and Corinne Day
What’s new for 2006? Rosie has just done the Paul Smith Women campaign as well as the spring/summer campaigns for DKNY and Zara
What they say about her ‘Rosie is one of the few models I have worked with who has a true “British spirit”. She’s feisty, fun and charismatic, and not at all preoccupied with her looks’ (Tim Bret-Day, photographer)
What she says ‘I would most like to work with Mert and Marcus [they shot Kate Moss for the most recent Roberto Cavalli campaign] as they never fail to make women look absolutely flawless. And my favourite food? Fillet steak and chips’
The waif
Name Felicity Gilbert
English beauty, Felicity has been compared to Kate Moss
Age 20
Background From Bishop’s Stortford, Felicity is another work-experience success story: she was working as an intern for a fashion PR who recommended she visit the Storm agency. She walked through the doors and was signed immediately, despite being too short for the catwalk
Vital statistics 5ft 6in; 32-23-33; light blonde hair; blue eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... elfin beauties like Kate Moss and Audrey Marnay Career highlights Her first job was for British Vogue with the superstar photographer Paolo Roversi. Since then she has done Italian, French and Japanese Vogue
What’s new for 2006? Felicity is rumoured to be fronting the new Chloé campaign What they say about her ‘Not only does she pick up her clothes after a shoot, she folds them and puts them away’ (an anonymous fashion assistant)
What she says ‘People say all these things about my face. There are lots of other things that are important’
The ingénue
Name Tania Dziahileva
Age 14 Background Belarus-born Tania is the baby of the bunch. These days it is commonplace for agencies to sign up models while they’re still young; the scouts then cross their fingers that the girls will grow into their looks. Tania already has, thanks to a perfect mane of hair and super-long limbs. She has just moved permanently to London
Vital statistics 5ft 11in; 34-24-34; blonde hair; green eyes
Follows in the footsteps of ... Milla Jovovich, another successful teen model
Career highlights So far Tania has appeared in a veritable rainbow coalition of Vogues – British, Russian, Japanese, Chinese and Italian
What’s new for 2006? The latest Yves Saint Laurent campaign and Hugo Boss
What they say about her ‘I was looking through about 300 Polaroids of girls, saw Tania and she just stood out. She was amazing: the face, the hair, the legs, the whole vibe. I just couldn’t stop thinking about her’ (Sarah Doukas, managing director of Storm)
What she says ‘What do I love? Alexander McQueen, Prada, Chanel, Kate Moss and the energy of London’
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