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Noemie Lenoir

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Poster from the movie "Gomez and Tavares 2". The English title is "The Payoff"
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Perthshire advertiser

London beckons for a Perth hair stylist 11:52, Feb 15 2008


Gordon Bannerman
PERTH hair specialist Catherine Scobie is at the sharp end of celebrated London Fashion Week.
The 31-year-old art director with John Gillespie’s Fair City salon fulfils a career ambition today, when she is due to titivate the hairstyles of top models in the capital.
Catherine — who has been with the St John Street business since she was a teenager — has graduated from a glamorous Paris fashion shoot for L’Oreal with boss John, when she was working with famous faces, like Marks and Spencer model Noemie Lenoir.
And she caught the eye at the London Graduate Fashion Week before being invited to join a 10-strong team of top stylists trusted to handle the hair of 34 female and 15 male models.
Before heading south, Catherine, of Aberuthven, said: “It will be really frantic but I’m looking forward to the experience.

“This has been an ambition of mine for years.”

Globetrotting stylist John, who famously teased the tousled locks of stars at the MTV Awards in Edinburgh, said: “Catherine enjoyed good exposure at the Paris shoot and again at the graduates fashion week.

“It is great for Catherine to get this invitation and it is superb for the salon.

“It has been a long-standing ambition of mine to have one of our stylists invited to take part in London Fashion Week.

“Catherine deserves the accolade. She may be the only Scot at the event. It is the pinnacle of hairdressing.

“All the top models will be there. This is the real deal.

“It will be nerve-racking but I have total confidence in Catherine and it is great for Perth.

“It shows there are career opportunities here.”

Catherine, who will be participating in the cutting edge St Martins College show, added: “It is always greatly anticipated in the fashion world.

“And there are usually strong hair themes. We will be working to a brief but we won’t get long to take it in. There’s no hiding place!

“If I’m working on a well-known face I’ll just have to take it in my stride.

“But as far as I’m concerned, it will be just another hairstyle.”
 
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Independent UK
Fashion is racist: insider lifts lid on 'ethnic exclusion'

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One of Britain's leading model agents has offered a disturbing insight into the racial discrimination holding back the careers of black models in the British fashion indusrty. Rob Sharp reports

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Top US model, Tyra Banks
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Saturday, 16 February 2008

Speaking as London Fashion Week drew to a close, Carole White, co-founder of Premier Model Management, which supplies models to top fashion brands, admitted that finding work for black clients was significantly harder than for the white models, because both magazines and fashion designers were reluctant to employ them.

"Sadly we are in the business where you stock your shelves with what sells," she said.
"According to the magazines, black models don't sell," White continued. "People don't tend to talk about it, but black models have to be so beautiful and perfect because we can't have a lot of diversity with black models; it's harder work for the agency because there's not so much on offer. White models can have more diversity."
Ms White pointed the finger at those organising model castings, adding: "We have had casting briefs which say 'no ethnics'. But we are better in London than Paris and Milan; there if you offer a black girl they will drop the book like it's hot; it's such hard work for the bookers."
Her comments will reopen one of the most sensitive debates within the fashion industry, where the presence of racism has been a cause of fierce resentment in the past. After a brief golden age in the Eighties and Nineties, Ms White's analysis suggests that fashion show designers and the industry media have regressed to an earlier, more blinkered approach. Naomi Campbell has been particularly critical of the trend, at one point threatening to set up a model agency for black women.
While the director of the Storm agency, Simon Chambers, recently denied the number of high-profile ethnic minority models was diminishing, he said the move towards racial diversity "is not happening quite as fast as predicted".
Ms White said the lack of ethnical-minority models was partly due to a lack of courage in catwalk shows on the part of designers: "In the Eighties and Nineties, you had whole shows with black girls. Now each agency will have one, maybe four; the designers are not as brave."
Images from London Fashion Week, which ended yesterday, feature few black and ethnic-minority models. On the web pages of the fashion site style.com, three shows chosen at random featured black models in eight out of 136 photographs taken during the week. The March issue of Vogue – with more than 400 pages of editorial and advertising – has 14 shots with black or Asian women – two of them featuring Naomi Campbell.
This month's 362-page Marie Claire has eight photographs featuring black women and four examples are in the current 312-page Glamour magazine.
The use of black models in catwalk shows and magazines tends to be limited to a handful of "big names". They include Campbell, the Ethiopian Liya Kebede and Alek Wek, who is Sudanese.
Ms Campbell, a former Premier model, said yesterday: "There is a lack of women of colour within the fashion industry which needs to be addressed. It is important for the agents, managers, advertisers and designers who are promoting change to speak out. We are not here to complain, we need to find a solution."
Ms Campbell highlighted the work of her manager, Bethann Hardison, who recently led a series of discussions in New York on the lack of diversity in fashion. Responding to the latest evidence of racism in the industry, Ms Hardison said: "The problem for me is that, in the 1980s and early 1990s, there was a good representation of black people on the catwalks and in the magazines. It's not like black models never had a sense of participation. Once you have climbed to the top of the mountain and crossed the river it is disappointing to have fallen all the way back down again."
Trevor Phillips, chairman of the Equality and Human Rights Commission, who helped write a series of documentaries three years ago on the changing faces of beauty, said it was a misconception that black models were less versatile. He said: "The idea that black models can only be put in exotica or urban clothing is 15 to 20 years out of date. But if you look at four of the world's most famous black models – Campbell, Tyra Banks, Wek and Noemie Lenoir – they come from four countries, their looks are all different and they are all physically dissimilar. There's more diversity in those four than there are in all the models of Britain, Italy and Scandinavia put together."
Janelle Oswald, a reporter at The Voice, aimed at the UK Afro-Caribbean community, was equally scathing. "Black people and models are very diverse," she said. "Within the black community, we have a motto that says 'out of many we are one'. I just came from London Fashion Week and I saw the Jamaican supermodel Nell Robinson – who has graced numerous magazine covers, done work for Victoria's Secret and the Gavin Douglas show today. How much diversity do you want?"
Nick Knight, a photographer who is known for his shoots featuring unconventional models, said the lack of black girls in British fashion was "a pitiful reflection on the industry. But it's not just fashion, I work in film and advertising and it's the same level of racism. And I do think that if we don't use a model because of her skin colour then it is racism."
Mr Knight confirmed he had heard of editors not using black models on their covers because they believed they did not meet readers' expectations.
Ms White said her agency did make an effort to seek out more diverse modelling talent: "We actively scout for black models. We do find Indian and Pakistani models harder to recruit because often their parents don't like them entering the business."
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The Independent
'Why should catwalks be so white?'

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By Mark Hughes
Saturday, 16 February 2008

Of all the models who sashayed down the catwalk at London Fashion Week, one stood out from the rest. But it was not only Jourdan Dunn's stunning looks which set her apart.

Dunn, 17, who is being hailed as the fashion world's "next big thing", has managed to defy industry conventions by joining the small number of black models on the catwalks. Predictably, she is described by those in the know as "the new Naomi Campbell".
The description is clearly meant as a tribute to her modelling ability – but the similarities with her fellow Londoner do not end there. Like Campbell, Dunn, from Greenford, is not afraid to speak her mind, especially when asked about the scarcityof black and Asian models in the fashion world.
"London is not a white city, so why should our catwalks be so white?" said the teenager. "I go to castings and see several black and Asian girls, then I get to the show and look around and there is just me and maybe one other coloured face. They just don't get picked. I hope it's because the designer just did not think they were good enough as a model, but I don't know."
Campbell, 37, the Streatham-born clothes-horse who has been an international star since she was discovered at 15, has also voiced her concerns about the lack of black models. She declared this week: "Women of colour are not a trend. That's the bottom line."
Despite the apparent struggle faced by black models, Dunn has triumphed. She was spotted in 2006, while trying on sunglasses in the Hammersmith branch of Primark, by a scout from the Storm model agency – home to Kate Moss, Lily Cole and Eva Herzigova. In less than two years, she has become one of the hottest properties in the industry.
Last year, she modelled for the designers Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Fürstenberg and Tommy Hilfiger in New York and Milan, as well as starring in campaigns for Benetton and the British couturier Alexander McQueen.
Dunn was also chosen by Kate Moss to launch her Christmas collection for Topshop, and has appeared in Vogue. The 5ft 10in teenager is currently the face of Gap.
Sarah Doukas, the founder and managing director of Storm, said of Dunn: "Every so often, a girl comes along that shakes up the industry – a girl who is uniquely beautiful with a great attitude.
"Jourdan is a modest girl from west London. She had never left England before we took her to New York but she is loving it. She has such a powerful presence as a model and just comes alive on the runway and in front of the lens. It is no wonder everybody is clamouring to book her."
 
The independent
Models often too afraid to launch a claim

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By Robert Verkaik
Saturday, 16 February 2008

The international fashion and beauty industries have been able to mask racist employment practices by claiming their businesses are dictated by subjective values. Black and Asian models working for London agencies are often told that they have failed to win work because the client was after a particular look that they don't possess. In any other industry such treatment would be recognised for what it is – blatant racism.

But, under employment law, models are no different to bankers or lawyers whose bosses have paid millions of pounds compensation for racist employment or recruitment policies.
If a model is repeatedly refused work or paid less than a white colleague she has a prima facie claim for race discrimination. Just because models work in an industry where beauty is supposedly in the eye of the beholder does not mean they are excluded from the protection of the Race Relations Act.
Traditionally black and Asian models have been unwilling to speak out because they believe they will jeopardise their careers. And it is true that an agency can try to defeat a claim by using subjective or contextual justifications for their choice of model. But often the bare statistics relating to modelling assignments will reveal a discriminatory trend.
To win a case all the model must be able to show is that a white competitor engaged in similar kinds of work is getting more work. It is not necessary to prove that the other person intended to discriminate against you.
Ethnic minority models may also be able to bring a claim for indirect racism by showing that the established practices of their industry have a discriminatory bearing on their work patterns and pay. Non-white people make up more than 20 per cent of the population in London yet it is estimated that only 1 per cent of the models in the capital are black or Asian.
An industry so skewed towards non-ethnic minority workers is highly vulnerable to race discrimination claims. It may only take one high-profile case to trigger a torrent of race claims. The employment tribunals will then be able to set new parameters and fairer rules of employment.
The question is who will be brave enough to go first.
 

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