from the IHT
With Proenza Schouler, Colette will hit a low-price target
Monday, February 5, 2007
NEW YORK 'It's really exciting. We are both really so into it, seeing the huge billboard in Times Square. For small designers, it really gets the name out there," says Lazaro Hernandez of the high-low fashion collaboration between Proenza Schouler and Target that has become a focal point of New York Fashion Week.
Hernandez and his design partner, Jack McCollough, both 28, and rising stars with their label Proenza Schouler, are suddenly seeing their small company go global — and not just with Target, the retail group with 1,494 stores across 47 states.
On Feb. 19, the same range of silk jersey dresses, summery prints, swimwear and Proenza Schouler's signature bustier insert tops, will go on sale until March 5 at Colette, the cool Paris store that has supported the duo from the start of their label in 2002.
The French distribution follows the "Opening Ceremony" boutique, which opened last weekend on Howard Street, in Manhattan, and where Proenza Schouler fans are paying a fraction of the usual upmarket designer prices: from $10 or $20 for a top to $130 for the most expensive items.
In Europe, that will translate into a top price of €100, according to Sarah Lerfel of Colette, who says: "It's going to bring accessibility to Parisians."
"I've worked with Proenza Schouler from the beginning. They have always been very sure of their new silhouette, very chic — but not full of clichés, so that their clothes look fresh, strong and elegant," she says.
Colette's niche collection will bring Target clothes outside the United States for the first time in the company's 45- year history.
The hi/lo concept, famously given its seal of approval when Karl Lagerfeld did a mini collection for H&M in 2004, is spreading globally. Last week, Stella McCartney signed up to design a line for another Target — a different company, based in Australia. But increasingly the U.S. retailer itself is looking at lesser-known designer names who can be given a boost.
John Remington, speaking for Minneapolis-based Target, says that its "Go International" program, which started by signing up Isaac Mizrahi, has since collaborated with Luella Bartley of London, Paul & Joe of Paris and New York- based Behnaz Sarafpour. The American Patrick Robinson will be its summer guest designer.
One thing is already certain: The Proenza Schouler Target line (made in China to bring prices way down) is already a smash hit. Hernandez says that, when a few items were mistakenly put up on the company's Web site, Target.com, there were 4,000 hits — and the items were immediately posted (at higher prices) on eBay.
This past weekend shoppers fought for low-price uptown style under the chandelier of the Opening Ceremony boutique, which temporarily removed its usual stock.
Hernandez acknowledges that such hysteria helps to promote the brand, but he adds that he and McCollough have always been open to the idea of designer clothes mixed with a downtown element.
"For us, it is the way we see our clothes," Hernandez says. "Designers now expect women to buy pieces — a fancy jacket and a pair of jeans. We love the idea of personal style. It is really inexpensive, but it is all in 100 percent silks and nice linen — and we had complete creative control."
Apart from the ethical questions raised by fashion manufacturing done at rock-bottom cost in China, the idea of hi/lo seems beneficial to everyone: the designers whose names get a boost, thus helping to promote and sell the top line; the fast-fashion chains, which draw in an aspirational clientele; and the public, who can, at last, afford to buy their fashion dreams.