An article about Chloe from Forbes, March 2006
Adventures in The Rag Trade
Amanda Ernst
A young Houston clothes designer has a chance to go big time. Will she take it?
Does sudden fame help-- or hurt--a young entrepreneur? Chloe Dao, a 34-year-old designer of women's clothes, is about to find out. For the last five years she has sold her line and those of others in a Houston boutique. But over the last few months Dao has been a contestant (and is now a finalist) in Bravo's
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/Projecthttp://web2.westlaw.com/result/docu...&sskey=CLID_SSSA38251723&mt=NewsAndBusiness#I http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/Runwayhttp://web2.westlaw.com/result/docu...&sskey=CLID_SSSA38251723&mt=NewsAndBusiness#I, the rag trade's equivalent of The Apprentice. She has shown moxie, meeting tough deadlines on budget. In a recent episode she had to do a fashion makeover for one of the show's male designers--and won, never having done menswear before.
If she wins it all, Dao takes home $100,000 to launch a new line of clothes and a $24,000 Saturn Sky roadster. She also gets a spread in Elle magazine and hands-on mentoring from the Banana Republic design group. Even if she doesn't make it to the finish line, Dao has considerable momentum. In 2000 she and younger sister Kim opened a shop in the neighborhood of Rice University. The store, Lot 8, shares its name with Dao's clothing line, a versatile collection of simple pieces--including elegant tops and dresses that compliment a woman's curves with loose folds of silk and jersey knit draped around the shoulders or belts slung low on the hips. Her clothes are flattering, sexy and comfortable. Last year the company netted $100,000 on sales of $400,000. But since December, when the latest season of
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/Projecthttp://web2.westlaw.com/result/docu...&sskey=CLID_SSSA38251723&mt=NewsAndBusiness#I http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/Runwayhttp://web2.westlaw.com/result/docu...&sskey=CLID_SSSA38251723&mt=NewsAndBusiness#I kicked off, she has had a small rush of e-mails from women across the U.S. and abroad who want to know where to buy her clothes. You can't yet do so on Dao's Web site.
Dao has notched every small success by cutting her own path. Born in Laos, she immigrated to the U.S. with her Vietnamese parents and seven sisters in 1979. As a teenager she redesigned vintage finds from secondhand shops; her first original was her senior prom dress. Dao majored in business marketing at the University of Houston at her parents' urging. Three semesters later she dropped out to study design at a community college and then moved to Fashionista Central--New York City. At the Fashion Institute of Technology Dao took a practical turn, learning patternmaking, which translates ideas into sketches and, eventually, into mass production. She worked at an evening-wear shop, mastering the basics of custom-made design and window dressing, then took a job as a patternmaker and design assistant for a sportswear company. Less than a year later she became a production manager with up-and-coming dress designer Melinda Eng.
Six years later, in 2000, Dao had had enough of apprenticeship and moved back to her parents' house in Houston to work on her own designs, with the thought of opening her own store. No shame in moving back in with Mom and Dad, she says, thanks to her Asian upbringing. "Most of my sisters lived with my parents until they got married," she says. "I lived at home and didn't pay rent for three years. My parents did my laundry and cooked me dinner."
And she saved her money--enough to launch Lot 8. Using $15,000 of her own, along with contributions from her sister Kim, loans from her parents and her credit cards, Dao invested $70,000 to renovate the 1,700-square-foot store and to buy equipment, fixtures and merchandise. "I was never afraid to fail," she says. "I knew it wasn't a big deal if it failed and I had to just pay my parents back."
Lot 8 has gained a faithful customer base by being one of the few with-it boutiques in the area. In addition to her own line (30% or so of the mix), Dao sells clothing and accessories (women's and men's) from other designers. After two years the store turned a small profit, and Dao was able to repay her parents, sister and credit card lenders. A year later she offered her youngest sister, Sydney, another veteran of Manhattan's Fashion Avenue, a 50% share of the company, purchased, says Dao, "with blood and sweat."
Chloe is the creative force behind the shop and clothing line, while Sydney keeps track of the books and publicity, and runs the store day-to-day. Their aunt Tina Luonagpho still does most of the sewing. ("I pay her a good salary," says Dao. "Whatever she tells me I owe her [for labor], I double it. But I still feel like I'm running a sweatshop.") The arrangement works fine for now, since Dao creates only six to ten new pieces each season--that translates into 100 new garments--and relies on popular holdovers, like her signature halter top.
Last year the store doubled in size by moving to a corner lot in the same shopping center. A 40-inch plasma screen runs tapes of Project Runway all day and is the centerpiece for Wednesday night viewing parties, when the show airs. This month, an in-house salon--hair and makeup--manned by one of Dao's older sisters is slated to open.
Whatever the outcome of Project Runway Dao knows her career is about to take a different turn. With her recent expansion, she has enough to keep herself busy and plans to add a new collection of evening wear, developed for New York's recent Fashion Week, to her store. Dao also intends to start selling her clothes online--and to hire at least one more hand to help with the cutting and sewing.
Is that goal ambitious enough? To step up to the big time, says Cynthia O'Connor, a fashion brand rep credited with starting the careers of Kate Spade and other notables, Dao should move back to New York, find a showroom to represent her and sign up a factory to produce her line. She should also think about getting the apparel into speciality stores and, at some point, into big department stores.
Dao knows the drill. Yet she has deliberately chosen to go slower. "I know I can expand nationally and not move to New York," she says. "It's hard, but not impossible." But when that brass ring comes around, can she really resist the tug?
The more I read about Chloe, the more I like her. Go Chloe!!!!!!
*cheers*