Riccardo Tisci - Designer

I wonder if the designer for Versace has to work from Milan.

A designer with his credibility and status can negotiate whatever he wants, in terms of design team and logistic choices (I remember Tom Ford running the design studio from London in his Gucci days). Versace needs him more than the other way round and Donatella, I am sure, would be more than happy to go some extra length to make sure he's happy in the company.

That said, I can't help feeling there's something odd the way the story has been told, something is missing from the picture.
 
Don't know if this has been mentioned here....

Rumour has it that DV and RT were in near-final talks about him heading up Versace, until he mentioned that he wanted it to be rebranded as 'Versace by Riccardo Tisci'.

DV was extremely offended, stating that 'VERSACE' was her brothers brand and nobody ever will have their name run next to his, and how arrogant RT was thinking he was as important as GV.

Hence no move to Versace.
 
Don't know if this has been mentioned here....

Rumour has it that DV and RT were in near-final talks about him heading up Versace, until he mentioned that he wanted it to be rebranded as 'Versace by Riccardo Tisci'.

DV was extremely offended, stating that 'VERSACE' was her brothers brand and nobody ever will have their name run next to his, and how arrogant RT was thinking he was as important as GV.

Hence no move to Versace.

Good on DV for standing her ground.
 
Good for DV indeed but it would have been rebranded in the credits in the press actually.
His work for Givenchy was always credited in the press as Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci but the brand was still Givenchy. Tom did the same when he was at Gucci, Hedi did the same, Nicolas did that at Balenciaga, sometimes Alber and Karl and John were credited like that but I don’t think it was required.

At some point, when she will consider who are the best talents for Versace, she will have to consider it. Star designers don’t Work only for the prestige of the brand. Their ego is also part of the whole thing.

But I get it, she is a Versace.
 
+4 on Donatella standing her ground. Although with that said, I'm still convinced he would've had success at Versace much sooner than he currently does at Burberry. This brand is too big and commercial for him and he's trying to evolve alongside the brand. Not going to work, sorry.
 
I actually think the "by [designer]" is a very reasonable addition when a new creative director is hired. Versace is still Versace, and no one can take away Gianni's and Donatella's legacy - Riccardo's would be a new chapter, and it helps with references in the future to be honest (like what is now known as Gucci by Tom Ford, or Christian Dior by John Galliano etc. And as Lola said, they were credited in the press like that too, but the clothing labels never mentioned the designers for example). But I can see why Donatella would find it offensive, if true.
 
Earnings should be in, has anyone heard or read anything about how sales have gone since Ricardo's collection hit stores? I feel like no one cares about the new Burberry.
 
For Burberry, China Is No Longer Ripe for the Picking

British luxury brand’s shares are overpriced given risks to its turnaround plan

By Carol Ryan
Aug. 16, 2019 5:27 am ET

It isn’t an easy time for companies that depend on selling expensive products to Chinese consumers.

Trench-coat maker Burberry is particularly exposed to the chill winds blowing from Asia, even by the China-centric standards of the European luxury sector. Chinese shoppers contribute roughly two-fifths of Burberry’s revenue globally, and many of them buy their products in protest-ridden Hong Kong.

The stock was immune to investors’ wider worries about China until this month, when the whole sector was hit by President Trump’s announcement of a 10% tariff on an additional $300 billion of Chinese goods followed by China’s decision to let its currency devalue. Even now, after a 10% fall in the month to date, Burberry stock appears expensive on 23 times expected earnings—one-tenth above its five-year average.

The brand is a little over midway through a multiyear makeover. Last year Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti hired a new lead designer, Riccardo Tisci, best known for his work at Givenchy. The hope is that the new creative approach and a better handbag range—a more lucrative category than clothing—can lift Burberry’s comparatively low 16% operating margin.

But investors have gotten carried away. Burberry’s shares have recently been pricing in sales growth of 5% to 6% in the second half of the company’s financial year, which runs through March, according to calculations by Bernstein. Meeting these high expectations will be tough. An immediate problem is weak spending in Hong Kong, where antigovernment demonstrations are stretching into their 10th week. A dozen or so boutiques in the city account for 6% of Burberry’s revenue.

Moreover, the brand is more reliant on Asian spenders than its rivals. For the quarter through June, sales in Europe were driven by tourists rather than locals, while business in its Americas region was flat. As the brand is still removing products from less salubrious department stores in the U.S., growth there should remain subdued. So while signs that Mr. Tisci’s new collections are going down well with Chinese shoppers are positive, Burberry has little to fall back on if they tighten their belts.
Granted, China’s luxury spenders have proven to be a resilient lot so far this year, despite the wider slowdown in consumer demand for mass-market goods like electronics in the Chinese market. But this could change as the weaker yuan makes European luxury goods more expensive. The current Sino-American trade tensions are unpredictable—on Tuesday the U.S. delayed the introduction of its latest tariffs—but at some point they seem likely to take a toll on the consumer confidence of China’s elite.

Burberry’s stock, which hit a record high last month, is still priced as if Chinese shoppers could be taken for granted. Investors’ optimism may have only just started to sour.


Wall Street Journal
 
Burberry braced for £100m sales blow from Hong Kong protests

Hannah Uttley
8 OCTOBER 2019 • 3:59PM

Burberry is set to take a £100m hit on sales in Hong Kong in the face of escalating violence between police and protesters in the region, analysts warn.

Analysts at Jefferies said the short-term impact of the ongoing protests was likely to be “painful” for Burberry, which has 10 shops in Hong Kong and generates around 8pc of its total sales there.

The bank said Burberry’s sales in Hong Kong were likely to be £100m lower for the year to April 2020, but it could recoup around 50pc of these losses from its operations across Europe and the rest of the Asia-Pacific region.

Flavio Cereda, analyst at Jefferies, said Burberry’s exposure to the ready-to-wear clothing market meant it was under greater pressure to shift seasonal stock than some of its competitors.

Mr Cereda said: “The problem with having ready-to-wear in stores which is not shifting is that the stock is seasonal so it’s a pressing problem because it will hit markdowns pretty soon.
“You’ve got two issues; you’ve got to divert deliveries and then you’ve got to think about what to do with all the stock in the stores because it’s not selling.

“The simple solution is don’t deliver stuff to Hong Kong any more, there’s no point. Or if you’re going to deliver 500 jackets, then deliver 50 instead and ship the rest of them off to mainland China.”

The findings come after RBC Capital Markets warned luxury retailers’ sales in the territory were likely to be as much as 60pc lower in the three months to September as the political turmoil continues to drive shoppers away.

Mr Cereda said some brands had started to accept the situation in Hong Kong as “the new normal” and were reacting accordingly.

Companies have been negotiating with landlords in an attempt to obtain lower rents, with experts saying some retailers will be forced to close sites.

Burberry declined to comment.


The Telegraph
 
UK GQ December 2019

His Checkered Isle


Photographer: Richard Dowker
Stylist: Luke Day
Grooming: Jody Taylor
Cast: Riccardo Tisci, Kristians Jakovlevs, Maxwell Annoh, Nic Minwoo



UK GQ Digital Edition
 
Objectively, how long do you guys think he's going to be at Burberry?
 
Objectively, how long do you guys think he's going to be at Burberry?

At least one contract extension, I think - so a few more years at least. He isn't leaving without Gobbetti and vice versa, and if the business is really going well like they are saying it is, then Riccardo will relax more and hopefully even find his footing. So far his Burberry isn't really working for me, but I'm willing to give them a chance to experiment and change a few things to get there.
 
^^
Gobbetti was also Phoebe’s boss. And more than that, he saw a lot of talents between those two teams. If Riccardo leaves, I wouldn’t be surprise to see Gobbetti trying to attract Phoebe or anybody else...We see the kind of momentum Bottega Veneta is having right now...

Objectively, how long do you guys think he's going to be at Burberry?
If he has a five years contract, I don’t think he is going to renew it because everything is happening so fast in fashion nowadays but if he has a 3years contract, he is going to renew it I believe.
He is obviously a great talent and he had a cordial exit from LVMH and I think that relative success of his tenure at Burberry can open more doors to him.
After this interview and him expressing his desire to have a lifestyle brand under his direction. I definitely see him more and more going at Versace and call me crazy, maybe at McQueen.

From the various report I’ve had, his Burberry is a success...Maybe a more relative a quite success than the Smash hit of his Givenchy but Burberry is doing better now than it has in the past 3-2 last years of Bailey. It was less difficult for Tisci to attract the millenials than it was for Bailey...
 
Thank you for the responses to my question you guys. Gobbetti does seem to be pretty integral to Riccardo's career so we'll see. I do actually think he would fit at McQueen and be able to express himself more at that brand. But it also seems like McQueen is very much a family, I wonder how they will handle another designer besides Sarah who's been there since before Lee passed.

RT's Burberry seems to communicate more to the younger customer which is beneficial to the brand. I genuinely don't know if the regular customers like RT's direction, I need to be educated on that front.
 
Burberry Q1 Sales Sink 48.4% in Q1 With Stores Shut and No Tourists

The company plans to slash costs at offices, stores outside the U.K., and said second half performance will depend on government actions, and whether people can travel.

By Samantha Conti on July 15, 2020

LONDON — Stung by store closures and dwindling international tourism, retail revenue at Burberry fell 48.4 percent to 257 million pounds in the first quarter ended June 27, while the current quarter will continue to be “materially impacted” by the coronavirus pandemic, Burberry said in a trading update Wednesday.

Comparable store sales were down 45 percent in the three-month period. Burberry shares were down 4.4 percent at 14.88 pounds in morning trading on Wednesday.

As a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, Burberry also plans to cut costs at its stores and offices outside the U.K., with the aim of saving 35 million pounds. This effort to streamline operations follows an announcement earlier this month that Burberry was reorganizing and consolidating its product and merchandising teams, and asking employees to collaborate more closely within the accessories, rtw and footwear divisions.

As part of those cost-cutting measures, Burberry confirmed on Wednesday that plans are under way to reduce the global workforce by 5 percent, with 500 roles set to be lost. Those cuts include 150 office-based roles in the U.K., and a mix of office and retail jobs internationally. During a call on Wednesday morning, Julie Brown, Burberry’s chief operating officer and chief financial officer, stressed that in the U.K. no retail or manufacturing roles would be cut.

Burberry chief executive officer Marco Gobbetti said first-quarter sales had been “severely impacted by the drop in luxury demand from COVID-19, and we expect it will take time to return to pre-crisis levels with the resumption of overseas travel.”

He said the company was “encouraged by the improving trends in all regions” and had seen an “excellent response to new product launches in recovering economies as well as online. Demand for leather goods was particularly strong in mainland China and [South] Korea, bringing new, younger luxury customers to the brand.”

With regard to the internal reorganization, he said Burberry was sharpening its focus on product and making other changes to increase agility “and generate structural savings that we will be able to reinvest into consumer-facing activities to further strengthen our luxury positioning.”

In May, after announcing the year-end results, Burberry said it was not in a position to provide specific guidance for fiscal 2020-21. At the time, half of Burberry’s store network was still closed and the company said it expected its first quarter to be “severely impacted” with store closures likely to be at or near peak for most of the three months.

Although the second quarter has already shown some improvement, with June sales down 20 percent, Burberry said Wednesday the July-to-September period will still be materially impacted by the pandemic. “Tourist flows are likely to remain negligible, and store operations are continuing to face significant headwinds, with some remaining closed and operating with reduced trading hours,” the company said.

Burberry added that based on the June figures, when sales fell 20 percent, it expects second-quarter retail sales to decline by 15 to 20 percent. In wholesale, the company said it has been collaborating with its partners to “protect the brand,” and as a result anticipates first-half sales to decline around 40 to 50 percent.

It expects gross margin in the first half to decline by around 200 to 300 basis points year-on-year, and operating expenses to fall by a mid-teens percentage compared to last year.

“The second half, and the course of the pandemic from here, will largely depend on the actions governments pursue to control the spread of the virus as economies restart, including their responses to second viral waves, as well as the phasing of store reopenings, an easing of travel restrictions and the on-going consumer response,” the company said.

Burberry added that it remains “crucially important to invest in the Burberry brand,” and that it will continue to embed flexibility in its strategies to allow for investment into consumer-facing activities in a bid to drive growth.

The company said it is currently in consultations with staff about streamlining operations, and said cost cutting across offices and stores internationally will deliver savings of around 35 million pounds. Annualized savings will be around 55 million pounds, with an associated one-off restructuring charge of 45 million pounds.

Burberry said the savings were incremental to its previously announced 140 million pounds cumulative cost-saving program. It added that conditional on the macroeconomic recovery from COVID-19 and luxury industry growth, “we will be able to reinvest these savings into consumer-facing activities. These include pop-up stores, visual merchandising, digital activations, events as well as marketing.”

WWD
 
Rumor has it he’s leaving Burberry.
I don’t think he’ll renew his contract. They’ll probably get someone cheaper.
But he must have a 3/4 years contract so it means he can’t leave before 2021. His last contractual season might either be FW2021 or resort 2022.
That being said, I don’t know where he could go after that. I want him at a Couture house.
 
Please, can everyone just put their ego aside and he just go to Versace already ?! Just get it over with. Everyone will be happy. It is literally one of the most obvious pairings. There or Gucci. I don't know !
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
212,616
Messages
15,191,283
Members
86,525
Latest member
cspivey
Back
Top
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"
<-- Admiral -->