Riccardo Tisci - Designer

[Benn98]

Maybe HM will help interim sales with her headscarf and knee blanket carried by her aide, lol.

Vogue.com

 

[GivenchyHomme]

That's just the type of client everyone wants to sell to.

 

[Benn98]

That's just the type of client everyone wants to sell to.

To be fair, these pics were taken from American Vogue. Sure it won't ever land up on Hypebeast, which is probably where Burberry want to be.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I'll take your word about the blanket, I'd never have thought that was Burberry. Can it be that he's too subtle?! (OK, after seeing the new trenches, I don't really think that.)

 

[Benn98]

Burberry Pulls “Creepy” Chinese New Year Photos From WeChat Campaign After Online Backlash

Yiling Pan @SiennaPan
January 10, 2019

Here is how British high fashion has altered its Chinese Lunar New Year campaign message after its "creepy" family portrait photos met online backlash.

On Thursday, Burberry pushed out a WeChat post on its official channel, named “Burberry Modern New Year (摩登新禧).” It was the same ad campaign done by the American photographer Ethan James Green and released last week, only with two heatedly-discussed family portraits, which some Chinese users had likened to Asian horror movies, missing.

Actresses Vicky Zhao and Zhou Dongyu were now the main cast, donning Burberry’s signature items. Other Asian models posed to showcase some typical family relationships — “kinship,” “brotherhood” and “generations.” The brand also unveiled a specially designed “The Belt” handbag in red to welcome the festival. The end of the post links to Burberry’s mini-program WeChat store, encouraging readers to directly place orders.

In less than 24 hours since its release, the post has been viewed more than 40,000 times. It signals how much attention has been placed on Burberry by Chinese consumers, who keenly waited to see how the brand would react to the previous drama. On social media, some users had complained that Burberry misunderstood both the importance and nature of Chinese Lunar New Year.

Though the brand hasn’t, so far, released an official statement in response to Chinese netizens’ criticism, it seems apparent Burberry heard the online sentiment right and well. And out of fear of losing Chinese consumers, it decided to comply, making it the latest case to illustrate the huge reliance of luxury brands on this market.

Burberry’s business exposure to China and Chinese nationals have reached historical highs. According to a recent research note by Morgan Stanley, Chinese nationals contributed to around 40 percent of sales to Burberry, while 29 percent of sales were generated in the Greater China region.

Jingdaily.com

 

[entten]

sorry but where is that creepy? am i blind?

 

[Koibito]

Me too. I don't find it creepy at all. I guess it because in Chinese or any country that celebrate lunar new year, the atmosphere and the people should be happy, colorful, smile etc. But the ad campaign is too, well, edgy, pale, and lack of smiles.

 

[TaylorBinque]

As someone who celebrates Chinese New Year, I don't find it creepy but I don't find it joyous. It's more like a modern, edgy family portraits that doesn't bring any joy to the table. Burberry was never a cold brand, it always exudes warmth and friendliness. I want to see how his aesthetics will evolve because this doesn't cut it.

 

[TaylorBinque]

As someone who celebrates Chinese New Year, I don't find it creepy but I don't find it joyous. It's more like a modern, edgy family portraits that doesn't bring any joy to the table. Burberry was never a cold brand, it always exudes warmth and friendliness. I want to see how his aesthetics will evolve because this doesn't cut it.

 

[Benn98]

As someone who celebrates Chinese New Year, I don't find it creepy but I don't find it joyous. It's more like a modern, edgy family portraits that doesn't bring any joy to the table. Burberry was never a cold brand, it always exudes warmth and friendliness. I want to see how his aesthetics will evolve because this doesn't cut it.

Especially when you consider what they've done for the UK in the past. Now that I think of iit, the last holiday campaign was also very cold, still, and heavily styled. Can't say the same about the ones with the Beckham child, or that cinematic one with Sienna Miller and Lily James.

 

[Benn98]

Vogue Paris February 2019

Tisci, Accent British

Photographer: David Sims
Stylist: Emmanuelle Alt
Hair: Damien Boissinot
Make up: Lucia Pieroni
Manicure: Ama Quashie
Cast: Riccardo Tisci, Linda Helena, Maike Inga



Vogue Paris Digital Edition

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Horrible profile pic of him. Looks like a Grindr type of profile photo, so pedestrian.

The ed is OK. I love the styling, his Burberry is starting to makes more sense to me, I feel like now I get it why I need his new clothes.

 

[dodencebt]

I'm honestly not sure the findings of the report say that Riccardo's Burberry is "working" as much as they are hyping him. It's clearly still too early to tell, with barely 50 percent of new products in store and single-digit growth. I guess we'll see more real results in a year or so.

The Verdict on Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry

LONDON, United Kingdom — Riccardo Tisci’s new era Burberry is finally working.

The UK’s biggest luxury brand said same-store sales climbed 4 percent in the first quarter compared to a year earlier, marginally beating expectations, as product from the new creative overhaul drove consumers, particularly Chinese millennials, to stores and online. JP Morgan estimated comparable sales growth of 3 percent before the results.

Burberry is in the second year of a turnaround plan to revive performance and reposition itself as a true luxury player on the back of Tisci’s creative overhaul — which has come with new heritage-inspired monogram on products from high heels to scarves — a widening of the brand’s leather goods offering and operational shifts like dropping products more regularly.

Tisci’s catwalk shows have had good but not ecstatic reviews, and the looks have only trickled into stores from February. Today, the brand said about half of the mainline stock in store in June was his product, which drove the sales growth. Total sales climbed to £498 million ($620 million) in the 16-week period.

“This was a good quarter in our multi-year journey to transform Burberry. We increased the availability of products designed by Riccardo, while continuing to shift consumer perceptions of our brand and align our network to our new creative vision. The consumer response was very promising, delivering strong growth in our new collections,” Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti said in a statement. The shares surged 14.6 percent to 2,238 pence in London trading.

Core to Gobbetti’s strategy is an attempt to transform Burberry from a more accessible luxury player to a British rival to Dior or Louis Vuitton. That’s meant scaling back its concession space in less exclusive department stores, refurbishing 23 stores and closing 9 underperforming ones and pushing its 163-year heritage with a new monogram of founder Thomas Burberry, a “TB” to promote its heritage but also tap status-hungry, newly wealthy shoppers keen for logos.

“Riccardo’s product will continue to build and represent three-quarters of our offer,” by the year end, Chief Financial Officer Julie Brown said on a conference call. “We recognise this is a transition. There’s a move to fashion and towards luxury. We’re doing very well. The move towards fashion is complete and we're seeing extremely good reaction from Riccardo, both the runway, summer and autumn (lines). These things don’t happen overnight.”

The early sales reaction hasn’t altered the full-year outlook of broadly stable sales as store closures and fewer wholesale concessions will weigh on performance. Growth will accelerate from 2021. The brand said consumer perception was changing citing key Instagram influencers endorsing their product unpaid.

Another core pillar of the turnaround is leather goods and handbags, where Burberry is expanding its offering with like the Grace shoulder bag and £1390 ($1740) Foster leather bucket bag to catch up to rivals in the high-margin category. However, sales in accessories “declined” as poor performance of older styles outweighed the benefit of the new collections. “It’s still very early days” and building a full-line range will take time, Brown said.

Burberry said subdued growth reported in Asia last year picked up, with “high, single-digit percentage” growth driven by mainland China where customers responded to new lines like B series drop of leather sleeves and the luxury market’s biggest consumer repatriated spending. Tisci’s product also “resonated” with young, fashion-forward Japanese consumers, Brown added.

On Brexit, Brown said they are preparing for all scenarios including a no-deal exit, which could mean additional incremental taxes as goods move in and out of the UK. The brand has a cross-functional team working on supply chains to prepare for October 31.

But reaction to Tisci’s product is the biggest takeaway from today’s results, the first time they have been included in sales, according to analysts.

“Tisci’s new product penetration was circa 35 percent during the quarter and is now closer to 50 percent where sales increased by a double digit pace — a key positive support for the creative transition,” according to John Guy, luxury analyst at Mainfirst Bank. It is a “good start.”

businessoffashion.com

 

[perfect blue]

I'm wondering how long he is going to stay at Burberry.

 

[tatouejeremie]

those numbers are very surprising to me, but maybe i'm just out of touch

 

[Lola701]

Burberry needed a fresh air and any fresh air for a brand that was struggling end up with a success...If the designer has a strong aesthetic.

I don’t think they nailed it in terms of identity but the products are good. I’m a Riccardo fan so i like the clothes. I’m less interested by the logomania but it works.

I feel like at Burberry, the real person under pressure is the CEO. That’s why we have those weird reports for just one collection when it’s always better to see long term and to judge the performance on 1 full year.

I really don’t see Riccardo renewing his contract. I need him at Versace...Really or a French Couture house.

 

[Benn98]

Burberry's marketing exec for the US market is out. I was thinking when last I saw an impactful magazine cover showing the new Burberry codes in general, not just US. Vogue China, Korea and Japan earlier this year, Vogue India this month? Gives you an idea of where their focus lies.

While fashion marketing execs don't necessarily have a hand in the creative vision of campaigns and the like, they are expected to forge relationships with stylists and editors, to secure prime advertising space for the brand in magazines or on websites, motivate covers and advertorials, control the frequency and pace of campaigns and announcements are released. Despite Burberry's sales slowly picking up, one of the brand's biggest drawbacks imo is still the lack of presence, across all their territories. Most of the prime advertising spots are taken up by Chanel, Gucci Prada, LV, Givenchy. But many smaller brands have been able to work around that. Balenciaga upped their game from the start by slotting their ads between fashion editorials (not space traditionally reserved for advertising, yet at the same time possibly the most lucrative space in the magazine because you have the reader's full focus.) Jacquemus seems to put all his focus into targeting niche markets such as Scandinavia and not China like everyone else. Marant advertise heavily in Feb/March and Sept/Oct, Balmain reserves most of their budget for France, yet stylists still shoot them.

Most September covers are out and unless they've secured a Vogue Paris or Italia cover, it's not looking good for them. I would've thought since Tisci and his team are going to such lengths to run two campaigns showing two different moods, they'd target both demographics aggressively but it seems most of the focus is going into partnering with the likes of Hypebeast and mainly the men's market. As it is there's not a single British magazine who the brand can rely on for consistent support. In British Elle's 60 pages of fashion editorials for their September issue, the brand only features once (in Angelina Jolie's edit - a simple trench coat, which btw was styled by the US edition), meaning, technically speaking, zero presence. And as a British brand, that's not a good sign.

George Kolasa to Leave Burberry: Sources

 

[perfect blue]

Burberry needed a fresh air and any fresh air for a brand that was struggling end up with a success...If the designer has a strong aesthetic.

I don’t think they nailed it in terms of identity but the products are good. I’m a Riccardo fan so i like the clothes. I’m less interested by the logomania but it works.

I feel like at Burberry, the real person under pressure is the CEO. That’s why we have those weird reports for just one collection when it’s always better to see long term and to judge the performance on 1 full year.

I really don’t see Riccardo renewing his contract. I need him at Versace...Really or a French Couture house.

He would be good at Versace, I think

 

[bc collector]

He would be good at Versace, I think

Most of us share this opinion. Yet it was his choice to go to Burberry rather than Versace (that is what it sounded like, judging from a recent interview Donatella gave the NYT).

Unless some crucial piece of information is missing from this story to make complete sense.

 

[Lola701]

Most of us share this opinion. Yet it was his choice to go to Burberry rather than Versace (that is what it sounded like, judging from a recent interview Donatella gave the NYT).

Unless some crucial piece of information is missing from this story to make complete sense.

I hope it will happen because the brand is a complete mess right now. I’ve seen that they are trying to push Versace Jeans Couture again. I was like...Come’on!

Burberry’s current CEO was his boss at Givenchy. Maybe this had an impact in his decision. And London, much like Paris is a very inspiring city from someone like him...

I wonder if the designer for Versace has to work from Milan.

He is too talented to not head Versace. He can do menswear, Couture and womenswear without it being cringy like it is right now.