Riccardo Tisci - Designer

[perhydrol]

But would it just be more of the same of what we had with Christopher Bailey? Interestingly both are Gucci alumni from the Tom Ford era.

It would be a major plot twist as back in the days, Pringle of Scotland tried to emulate the success of Bailey for Burberry by hiring Clare Waight Keller. And despite being limited by their scale, they somehow succeeded. That being said, do I see her being hired by Burberry now? Unfortunately, not really. I think they are interested in someone who would potentially bring some hype to the house.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It would be a major plot twist as back in the days, Pringle of Scotland tried to emulate the success of Bailey for Burberry by hiring Clare Waight Keller. And despite being limited by their scale, they somehow succeeded. That being said, do I see her being hired by Burberry now? Unfortunately, not really. I think they are interested in someone who would potentially bring some hype to the house.

That's how I feel as well.

 

[yslforever]

If Daniel Lee is appointed as Artistic Director, it will signal that Burberry wants to move away from the whole hypebeast market and back towards a bit more of a subdued and elegant aesthetic that could resonate with a more mature demographic. It seems to me that during Tisci's appointment, Burberry seems to have lost that market completely.
The "hype" of the brand may have increased under Tisci, but at what cost?[/QUOTE]

I am very surprised you consider Burberry a "hype" brand while BV isn't. Here in Paris, Burberry has closed so many stores and is far from being "hype" or even trendy. I see a lot more "hype" in BV, especially all those rubber shoes and the bags are everywhere right now, just like Balenciaga. It's like nobody here seems to care about Burberry.

 

[Frederic01]

I am very surprised you consider Burberry a "hype" brand while BV isn't. Here in Paris, Burberry has closed so many stores and is far from being "hype" or even trendy. I see a lot more "hype" in BV, especially all those rubber shoes and the bags are everywhere right now, just like Balenciaga. It's like nobody here seems to care about Burberry.

This is exactly what I meant when I say that Burberry is a hype/hypebeast brand under Riccardo.




BURBERRY

Bottega is popular and trendy but certainly not a hype beast brand in the way that Burberry is. For a start they don't have social media. Secondly, they don't do collabz. And (under Daniel Lee) they had no celebrity "faces" of the brand and influencer partnerships. Etc, etc.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

If Daniel Lee is appointed as Artistic Director, it will signal that Burberry wants to move away from the whole hypebeast market and back towards a bit more of a subdued and elegant aesthetic that could resonate with a more mature demographic. It seems to me that during Tisci's appointment, Burberry seems to have lost that market completely.
The "hype" of the brand may have increased under Tisci, but at what cost?

I am very surprised you consider Burberry a "hype" brand while BV isn't. Here in Paris, Burberry has closed so many stores and is far from being "hype" or even trendy. I see a lot more "hype" in BV, especially all those rubber shoes and the bags are everywhere right now, just like Balenciaga. It's like nobody here seems to care about Burberry.[/QUOTE]

I agree. Lee's BV was loud, aggressive, dare I say gaudy fashion with a huge, chunky capital F. You could spot that obnoxious green, those oversized leather weave bags, clunky shoes, and shiny metal triangles a mile away.

At least with Tisci's Burberry you can still find a classic (albeit unremarkable) check-lined trench in the store.

 

[Frederic01]

I agree. Lee's BV was loud, aggressive, dare I say gaudy fashion with a huge, chunky capital F. You could spot that obnoxious green, those oversized leather weave bags, clunky shoes, and shiny metal triangles a mile away.

At least with Tisci's Burberry you can still find a classic (albeit unremarkable) check-lined trench in the store.

I don't think this is a rational or objective assessment of Daniel Lee's work. I mean, sure, there were some highly expressive creative moments / design propositions in his shows, but to make a blanket statement that his work was "loud, aggressive...[and] gaudy fashion"? And to call a shade of green "obnoxious" just because you personally don't like it? Completely and utterly bizarre.

You clearly have a bias toward the design elements of Lee's work which prevents you from seeing the objective reality of what the work was.

Besides, Bottega under Lee was absolutely not a hype beast brand. The accessories may have been popular and resonated with a client base looking to fill the aesthetic void that Phoebe Philo left when she exited Celine, but that's about it.

There is a difference between a brand being popular and a brand aggressively chasing and engaging "hypebeast" culture. Riccardo Tisci is all about hypebeast culture.

 

[yslforever]

I don't think this is a rational or objective assessment of Daniel Lee's work. I mean, sure, there were some highly expressive creative moments / design propositions in his shows, but to make a blanket statement that his work was "loud, aggressive...[and] gaudy fashion"? And to call a shade of green "obnoxious" just because you personally don't like it? Completely and utterly bizarre.

You clearly have a bias toward the design elements of Lee's work which prevents you from seeing the objective reality of what the work was.

Besides, Bottega under Lee was absolutely not a hype beast brand. The accessories may have been popular and resonated with a client base looking to fill the aesthetic void that Phoebe Philo left when she exited Celine, but that's about it.

There is a difference between a brand being popular and a brand aggressively chasing and engaging "hypebeast" culture. Riccardo Tisci is all about hypebeast culture.

I think we are on the same page; Burberry is just chasing the hype while BV is already in it.
But I dislike both. I hate that vile BV green with passion while I am pretty indifferent to Tisci's efforts; honestly the collabs you mentionned are seriously outdated and reek of desperation.

 

[Olaffo]

Tisci got 2 more seasons and he's out. 95 % will be Lee at Burberry - confirmed yesterday with few tipsy handsome designers from there LOL

 

[Salvatore]

I am praying that Tisci either goes to Gucci or Versace. If he goes to Versace, I demand Atelier Versace runway shows return ! We deserve this !!!

Either way, I want him doing high fashion again at a house that inspires him and makes sense.

 

[perhydrol]

I honestly he doesn't care about fashion at all. If he did, he wouldn't make direct copies of his Givenchy pieces for Burberry, because it's either caused by a complete lack of creativity or sheer desperation. That's why I don't really have any hope for him anymore.

 

[Salvatore]

I honestly he doesn't care about fashion at all. If he did, he wouldn't make direct copies of his Givenchy pieces for Burberry, because it's either caused by a complete lack of creativity or sheer desperation. That's why I don't really have any hope for him anymore.

I think he cares about fashion, but I think Burberry is a difficult house to do that at. He needs a place that sparks passion and inspiration.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Tisci got 2 more seasons and he's out. 95 % will be Lee at Burberry - confirmed yesterday with few tipsy handsome designers from there LOL

Makes a lot a sense. Not to sound xenophobic or in support of people who are, but after Tisci's wayward turn it seems prudent to have a British designer at the helm.

I've only heard TERRIBLE things about Lee, most notably that he's racist and an impractical and immature diva. Hopefully he's grown up.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think he cares about fashion, but I think Burberry is a difficult house to do that at. He needs a place that sparks passion and inspiration.

Right!? Of course he cares about fashion!

I think he did what he knew and he did it as best he could. It was a great effort, just the wrong one. I respect Burberry for trying it out and I respect them more for moving on.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I am praying that Tisci either goes to Gucci or Versace. If he goes to Versace, I demand Atelier Versace runway shows return ! We deserve this !!!

Either way, I want him doing high fashion again at a house that inspires him and makes sense.

I think either Gucci or Versace would be great! He has so much of Versace's spirit and sensibility, every second he's not working there is a loss for the house.

 

[Salvatore]

Right!? Of course he cares about fashion!

I think he did what he knew and he did it as best he could. It was a great effort, just the wrong one. I respect Burberry for trying it out and I respect them more for moving on.

Exactly ! It’s not a situation like Louis Vuitton where they had no RTW before so you can essentially do whatever and determine the direction of the house. Burberry has in-place house codes and an image that is, simply put, very British. Tisci’s full breath of capability and design sensibility doesn’t quite work there because of those codes and image.

I think either Gucci or Versace would be great! He has so much of Versace's spirit and sensibility, every second he's not working there is a loss for the house.

Versace or Gucci are my highest hopes for him. He could even properly do Alta Moda for Gucci and that might respark that in Rome. I wonder if Gucci could ever be placed on the haute couture calendar as a guest like the other Italian brands ? I don’t see it fully, but who knows ?

 

[Lola701]

Exactly ! It’s not a situation like Louis Vuitton where they had no RTW before so you can essentially do whatever and determine the direction of the house. Burberry has in-place house codes and an image that is, simply put, very British. Tisci’s full breath of capability and design sensibility doesn’t quite work there because of those codes and image.



Versace or Gucci are my highest hopes for him. He could even properly do Alta Moda for Gucci and that might respark that in Rome. I wonder if Gucci could ever be placed on the haute couture calendar as a guest like the other Italian brands ? I don’t see it fully, but who knows ?

We saw the limits of Couture when Kering launched Gucci Premiere and Saint Laurent « Couture ». Couture as part of an advertising budget is pointless for me…

I think Riccardo, despite being an Italian is a couturier at heart. The heritage of Gucci is not Couture. Tbh, I was thinking about him taking over Dior or Versace.
Now that Versace is profitable and own by a corporate, they can accommodate him perfectly and I’m sure he has kept great relationship with the Arnault.

It’s clear by his last collection for Burberry that Riccardo is frustrated to not « Do Couture ». I mean the ball gowns were beautiful but ridiculous considering the heritage of the house.

And I think that working with something bigger than him can allow him to refresh his aesthetic. I think that his gimmicks can be so annoying at times.

 

[Benn98]

Besides, Bottega under Lee was absolutely not a hype beast brand. The accessories may have been popular and resonated with a client base looking to fill the aesthetic void that Phoebe Philo left when she exited Celine, but that's about it.

There is a difference between a brand being popular and a brand aggressively chasing and engaging "hypebeast" culture. Riccardo Tisci is all about hypebeast culture.

Hhmm, I think there's a difference between a hyped brand and a Hypebeast brand but there's also an intersection because both rely more on popular appeal and on social currency than actual design.

Bottega Veneta under Daniel Lee was a hyped brand, no two ways about that. And annoyingly so. His entire aesthetic has defined mainstream influencer culture since 2019 (the one-shoulder tops, the square-toed stilettos with straps, zesty colours, the it bags). And I don't personally think his base were Philophiles who came out of mourning. Maybe just people got sick to death with being bombarded with Gucci at every angle. And yet, as much as it was insufferable to see the BV hype I found it impressive for a new designer to leave such a strong mark in such a short amount of time.

The difference with Burberry under Tisci is that I don't think they've ever commanded such a strong following or profile. Whatever coverage they got was bought and paid. And besides dabbling into the occasional elegant dressing, they never really connected with that market.


Pains me to say this because one thing I can't stand is blandness (that's why I could never live in Scandinavia), but I suppose Clare would be a good choice. She'll know instinctively how to connect with the pre-Tisci audience plus she learned a few gimmicky (and often completely off-mark) marketing tricks that will keep things interesting.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

You know who would do a really interesting Burberry?

John Galliano.

 

[LadyJunon]

Pains me to say this because one thing I can't stand is blandness (that's why I could never live in Scandinavia), but I suppose Clare would be a good choice. She'll know instinctively how to connect with the pre-Tisci audience plus she learned a few gimmicky (and often completely off-mark) marketing tricks that will keep things interesting.

Copenhagen Fashion Week will be the absolute bane of your existence then.

You know who would do a really interesting Burberry?

John Galliano.

I'd rather have him at Schiaparelli, but chances are, he's probably retiring soon.

 

[gallianostan]

I'd rather have him at Schiaparelli, but chances are, he's probably retiring soon.

i think i'm gonna need some fluoxetine to cope with the prospect of john retiring amidst the current state of fashion.