Zazie I love how thoughtful your post was ..
on another hand, I believe its utterly unfair to compair Margiella to the M sisters ... just starting by the fact that they do not have half the amount of collection as Martin under their belt .. it can not be compared. imho
Agreed, they cannot be compared in terms of experience,
but I would like to see the potential for "range" before I can conclude that they are truly talented designers and not a one-trick. I saw some older non-collage/artisan collections from Rodarte, and they were quite dreadful. I've seen pretty good leatherwork and mixed-media on etsy, trashionista, etc., so I'm not convinced this is much more special. At best, I guess Rodarte may one day be like a kind of Lesage, specializing in one type of technique, but even then, not pushing the technique much further at this point. Got to emphasize my beef with them is not whether their clothes are aesthetic (their aesthetic in this collection is actually pretty appealing to me), wearable or saleable, as others have pointed out and those are valid points, but whether they are too derivative and mean anything in the larger scheme of American fashion. I do overlook those aspects when I think a young designer shows talent - I'm generally easy on young designers that way!
A young Margiela was definitely showing a lot of ideas, skills and concepts in his first collections. There are some American young designers that show the same promise, and it's a shame that they are not getting the same press, financial support, etc.
In the end, I guess I'm fed-up with seeing the same things over and over, whereas others may *like* seeing the very same repetition, it's quite subjective!