Rodarte S/S 10 New York

[juanpyx]

Soon I will see Homer Simpsom coming out through all that smoke from the Nuclear Plant of Rodarte Springfield ...

 

[esquire]

the issue i have with this is that it's a collection of laziness. Unfinished seams, sub par details, and the same silhouettes.

Laziness? have you seem it in detail? the textile research? do you know how long would take to technically build/make those dresses?

you may not like the esthetics, thats totally comprehensible, call it lazy is naive .

 

[abstraccion]

Details

[URL=http://www.imagebam.com/image/85937d49105769/] [/URL]

vogue.co.uk

 

[abstraccion]

same

 

[abstraccion]

same

 

[abstraccion]

same

 

[abstraccion]

same

 

[mikeijames]

rodarte makes new york fashion week relevant. seriously, the glory of new york fashion week remains that true talent rises to the top so quickly and obviously where it might get lost in a milan or paris. also, it's houses like rodarte, proenza schouler, and alexander wang that show us that there's a tried-and-true american perspective on fashion. these younger designers remain so true to their design aesthetics yet shock and surprise us each season with experimental designs that push the envelope of wearability and fashionability.

in this show, the genius came in the handiwork of those fabrics which otherwise may have looked inexpensive and undesirable. yet, even with the introduction of very un-rodarte fabrics, they managed to create a collection that still has their unmistakable signature.

with a collection this heady and conceptual, one wonders how they will temper their vision to sell it to the masses at an outlet like target.

 

[educo]

Laziness? have you seem it in detail? the textile research? do you know how long would take to technically build/make those dresses?

you may not like the esthetics, thats totally comprehensible, call it lazy is naive .

I stand by my statement. It's lazy. And it has nothing to do with the hours that go into the garments. How many different renditions of patchwork can you do before it's time to move on?? i don't care if it's a signature, don't make an ENTIRE collection out of it and ignore making intelligent design decisions. To me, this is the equivalent of a no talent singer, performing with 100 back up dancers..it's becoming all smoke and mirrors. If you strip all that extra stuff, you're left with NOTHING. Literally. Is that intelligent design to you? You're not even left with even an ESSENCE of what the designer is all about, no silhouette, NOTHING. There is no real depth, just a false suggestion due to the "dazzling" array of fabrics and "details"...but where is the BODY, the SOUL? There are some designer pieces where you can strip the decoration and still get what the designer is about...i don't get that here, and I'm not alone.

The only thing done well in this collection are the shoes..they encompass more to me than the entire collection.

 

[lamies022]

The use of leather is what sets this collection apart for me (the looks on Liu, Iselin, and Freja are just bad-***). And the closing looks pretty much make my mouth water.

 

[made]

not initially excited about this collection.
that said. rodarte's collections continue to be exciting, for their uniqueness, for their continued experimentation with fabrics. would love to see pieces from this collection styled differently in editorials.

 

[made]

and. as usual.. on viewing the detailed pictures posted, amazing leather work. crochet, tulle, leather? amazing.. it was definitely an initial dislike of the styling..

 

[honeycombchild]

When you see the detailed shots, it gets so much better. You can see that the leather lattice work is infact plaited, and twisted and all sorts. As well as being really nicely finished along the edges.

 

[ponytrot]

i totally get the criticism about zero progression in terms of dress structure, silhouette.

its very "surface" - and as Horyn said last season, one gets a real sense of the girls spending hours lovingly draping and patchworking bits and bobs.

in that sense, i'm not convinced Rodarte is genius.

that said, I do like the end result - its pretty, very "pretty" in a very romantic way.

 

[lyyoxball]

i cant said this show is great or not,because i still think they look like the same in every collection...but the shoes is cool.

 

[Scott]

can i ask one thing to the critics....would you all say the same of them if they perhaps weren't as big? to me it seems contradictory....if they were smaller and less hyped maybe they wouldn't generate that kind of criticism? there are a lot of designers that are around that are less talked about but still appreciated enough to warrant opinions and they too stay within what they do best,keep their signatures in tact and no one bats an eyelash. it just feels like so many want them to move away from what they do best because of their much-lauded position these days. not everyone has to be marc jacobs. and while i do agree their sense of construction is an area they could use a bit of evolution in,i don't think they should abandon the textural and their artful sense of material elements for the sake of the fashion river.

 

[Alejandro]

can i ask one thing to the critics....would you all say the same of them if they perhaps weren't as big? to me it seems contradictory....if they were smaller and less hyped maybe they wouldn't generate that kind of criticism?

i still wouldn't like it and i'd feel the same about the collection. it's just gross. i mean look at these following pics....anybody can drape random crap like this on a dress form. it isn't art.

style.com

 

[educo]

Thank you.^^ It's sloppy, plain and simple.

 

[Zazie]

can i ask one thing to the critics....would you all say the same of them if they perhaps weren't as big? to me it seems contradictory....if they were smaller and less hyped maybe they wouldn't generate that kind of criticism?

Can I ask the same question back - if Margiela keeps sending out collection after collection of the bottle-cap vests, now bottle-cap dresses, bottle cap jackets, next plastic bottle caps instead of metal ones, next bottle-caps mixed with leather, etc....at what point would you not be tearing your hair out?

I am stunned in that so little is demanded of the Rodarte sisters.

Give me a few months with a lot of interns, I'd do these collage dresses on a mannequin form. In fact, for Fall, I'd be experimenting with different types of chains collaged, woven, stitched, even chainmail, silver, antique gold, bronze with felted wool, plaid, metal zips that "open" some of the collages to transform them, some leather, in colors like ink black, deep violets, forest greens, dark blues, throw in some patches of black shiny patent for a sliver of sharpness. Sounds like a Rodarte collection already yet? That's the problem for me, it's becomed a cliche. Maybe next Spring it's more "cyber" materials, irridiscents, Milky Way prints, neon transparent panels, again all collaged and draped stitched on a mannequin. Come Spring Summer Winter or Fall.

I don't deny the amount of work involved in stitching these together, piece by piece, but the method is tired, the shape is unchanged, the textural finish the same, the result still "etsy". There is a limit to repetition, and critics and fans are letting them get away with stretching it to unbearable lengths for some of us.

I'm sure they must be the nicest people on earth, so this isn't personal.


I said the same of Rad Hourani and his variations on the slashed pants - first time I saw those, I went , then again the next collection..., then another collection..., and now...

Besides, by the time Rodarte same up with this collage collection, they were a couple of seasons behind Balenciaga, who was a couple of decades behind Kaisik Wong. After the raves, they kept doing it, more raves and it became the "Rodarte" look, they were sending out drastically different collections before, all poorly tailored.

I'd agree with educo about being "lazy" - it isn't that this kind of painstaking stitching and sewing isn't demanding of handwork, it is, but they're "lazy" in that they're not doing more to learn real tailoring and do real clothes. Perhaps they aren't dodging it, it could be *this* work is their limit.

So, no, they haven't convinced me and a few others - to be a REAL fasion designer, you've got to *know* how to do a lot more. Take Margiela - from concept to artisanal to just fantastic looking suits to colored ice necklaces that stain the clothes in paint splashes, he sends them all. He is seldom out of ideas or the skills to execute them. He is a *real* designer.

 

[retailqueen]

Zazie you are so eloquent. I agree with every single word you wrote.