Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[PDFSD]

puck news.com​

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Gucci’s New Messenger​

Gucci, for its part, can’t wait to turn a corner and exit this morass. Earlier this week, the brand announced new hires in its marketing and communications division. As I predicted two weeks ago, the change puts Givenchy’s Valérie Leberichel in charge of the department. Incoming C.E.O. Stefano Cantino seems to be working overtime to streamline the business, which already had a complex setup before Sabato De Sarno entered the picture. However, it became more chaotic when he brought in his people, who overlapped with Gucci’s people, which made it even harder to get things done. Or at least done properly.

Runway shows aside, one of the most challenging aspects of the De Sarno era has been the communications and marketing strategy rollout. Things started strong with a few great campaigns that were shot long before he ever showed a collection, but then quickly became muddled. De Sarno did far too many interviews, and was positioned by the brand as a star (complete with his own documentary) when they should have let the industry anoint him, instead.

Of course, the real challenge for Gucci is bigger than De Sarno. As Cantino knows from his formative experience running marketing and communications at Louis Vuitton, leather goods are a practically inexhaustible resource for consumers. (Indeed, Louis Vuitton generates more revenue annually than all of Kering.) Gucci already generates more than half its revenue from leather goods, but there’s room to grow and leverage those recurring revenue opportunities. Chairman and C.E.O. François-Henri Pinault has made it clear that his leadership team believes Gucci could and should be the Louis Vuitton of his group.

The problem with this theory, inevitably, is that Tom Ford turned Gucci into a fashion house in the ’90s. During that same period, Jacobs and Martin Margiela were additive at Louis Vuitton and Hermès, respectively, but Ford overwhelmed Gucci, and his influence and legacy were compounded during the Alessandro Michele era. (He, too, overwhelmed the brand.) People want real flair from Gucci, but part of Cantino’s job will be to impart a sense of fashion into the offerings while also establishing it as the first stop for handbags, luggage, wallets, belts, etcetera.

Not easy. Of course, all of this could be derailed if Donald Trump decides to enforce tariffs on the damn things.

 

[Frederic01]

Runway shows aside, one of the most challenging aspects of the De Sarno era has been the communications and marketing strategy rollout. Things started strong with a few great campaigns that were shot long before he ever showed a collection, but then quickly became muddled. De Sarno did far too many interviews, and was positioned by the brand as a star (complete with his own documentary) when they should have let the industry anoint him, instead.

I don't understand how a behemoth like Gucci, and to that effect Kering, can make such rookie mistakes and function like a random start-up company with decisions such at these. Is this not a multi-billion dollar company we are talking about?

The positioning of Sabato as this second coming of a genius was a very bad decision on Kering's part. It was probably part of the reason why the expectations on him were of such a high nature, and eventually why so many people were so disappointed in his work.

 

[PDFSD]

I don't understand how a behemoth like Gucci, and to that effect Kering, can make such rookie mistakes and function like a random start-up company with decisions such at these. Is this not a multi-billion dollar company we are talking about?

The positioning of Sabato as this second coming of a genius was a very bad decision on Kering's part. It was probably part of the reason why the expectations on him were of such a high nature, and eventually why so many people were so disappointed in his work.

i think they thought to give/buy him a personality via a documentery much like frida the director was about cementing her as a power house of a creative director ....lol

 

[FashionPower]

i think they thought to give/buy him a personality via a documentery much like frida the director was about cementing her as a power house of a creative director ....lol

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At least the Frida documentary had funny moments with Frida bashing and rejecting Alessandro's bags proposal with the drama from the Valentino clear perspex clutch and Frida again getting mad at the team for Not having properly hemmed a tunic. The Ancora documentary was Just a boring PR stunt to make him look like the next Karl Lagerfeld. I still remember the cringe behind the scenes interviews with Zanola and Alessio Vannetti. Thank you, next.

 

[PDFSD]

At least the Frida documentary had funny moments with Frida bashing and rejecting Alessandro's bags proposal with the drama from the Valentino clear perspex clutch and Frida again getting mad at the team for Not having properly hemmed a tunic. The Ancora documentary was Just a boring PR stunt to make him look like the next Karl Lagerfeld. I still remember the cringe behind the scenes interviews with Zanola and Alessio Vannetti. Thank you, next.

true but creatively i don't like either one is just the more worse version of the other but they are very alike .....that's why they get along

 

[FashionPower]

Who's ready for the newest flop from Sabato and Zanola?
Chapter 2 from Holiday campaign!
Chapter 1 was about Savoy hotel in Rosso Ancora, chapter 2 features models throwing fake snow balls surrounded by CGI snowy mountains...so innovative!
Here's Jannik Sinner laying on fake snow wearing GG Marmont belt from Michele, a tacky GG monogram hoodie and a metallic silver duffle...but wait...that duffle looks like it's from the latest Ski collection from Louis Vuitton with the metallic foil monogram bags: GROUNDBREAKING!

 

[tourbillions]

He should stick to sending designs to a creative director. I definitely see that he was a ghost designer who needs a brief to follow from the C.D. But he definitely isnt a creative nor a director.

 

[Vikingtop]

I just checken the homepage if YSL and Gucci.....

It is getting more and more absurd....

Really bad.... no appetizers....no real clothes (beyond tacky or plain basic)....boring bags......

who makes those decisions?????

 

[yslforever]

Who's ready for the newest flop from Sabato and Zanola?
Chapter 2 from Holiday campaign!
Chapter 1 was about Savoy hotel in Rosso Ancora, chapter 2 features models throwing fake snow balls surrounded by CGI snowy mountains...so innovative!
Here's Jannik Sinner laying on fake snow wearing GG Marmont belt from Michele, a tacky GG monogram hoodie and a metallic silver duffle...but wait...that duffle looks like it's from the latest Ski collection from Louis Vuitton with the metallic foil monogram bags: GROUNDBREAKING!

View attachment 1325590
View attachment 1325591

Vuitton had that 3 striking campaign on mountain backgrounds: Roger & Rafa of course, the Wyoming/Montana FW 24 for Pharell, and quite the extraordinary "Horizons Never Ends" with Fei Fei by Glen.
Miu Miu had this incredible "Miu Miu Mountain Club" show and campaign
Even Loro Piana has rn incredible pics in Lapland for their ski collection.

Gucci: Sinner rolling in asbestos.

 

[NoInvite]

I just checken the homepage if YSL and Gucci.....

It is getting more and more absurd....

Really bad.... no appetizers....no real clothes (beyond tacky or plain basic)....boring bags......

who makes those decisions?????

Recap
YSL - the first bag you see is a 35k feather bag and for RTW is a pantyhose swimsuit
Gucci - Items full of allover monogram

Good luck Kering for letting your designers run free.

 

[PDFSD]

what do you expect whe the new commucations

Who's ready for the newest flop from Sabato and Zanola?
Chapter 2 from Holiday campaign!
Chapter 1 was about Savoy hotel in Rosso Ancora, chapter 2 features models throwing fake snow balls surrounded by CGI snowy mountains...so innovative!
Here's Jannik Sinner laying on fake snow wearing GG Marmont belt from Michele, a tacky GG monogram hoodie and a metallic silver duffle...but wait...that duffle looks like it's from the latest Ski collection from Louis Vuitton with the metallic foil monogram bags: GROUNDBREAKING!

View attachment 1325590
View attachment 1325591

lolz fits with the new cheap level of people like Davide Buzzoni ...Gucci´s new global communications director form loro piana half naked with nothing but a tiny underwear on raya app with his new job title included on his bio ......it all makes sense #lifestylegoals making Jacquemus look intelectual chic at this point

it just so bad its not even funny any. more

 

[Nimsay]

So many thoughts

Gucci still has good PR and Press people because 20% drop in a quarter is just devastating really. I mean these people gucci is hiring went to business school so they were also taught that a 5% drop is a huge deal. A 20% drop is… the company is crashing and to get out with your pension ASAP.

as I get to know sabato better I can see a few things…

The people that picked him have no taste and are easily impressed. That bellatini girl. I dont know what about YSLs “success” made them promote her. Vaccarello coasted off duping Hedi for a decade.

Sabato - to the untrained eye - appears to be a Lagerfeldian decision-maker. Those color gradients with the color code actually written is kind of Lagerfeld-ish though I think Karl wouldn’t waste his time actually providing the color codes for paint. Fundamentally changing it from some weird precision obsession to a feeling and a mood.

Whomever is observing sabato confuses his fussiness with precision. They think he’s a Hedi like dicta

 

[yslforever]

So many thoughts

Gucci still has good PR and Press people because 20% drop in a quarter is just devastating really. I mean these people gucci is hiring went to business school so they were also taught that a 5% drop is a huge deal. A 20% drop is… the company is crashing and to get out with your pension ASAP.

as I get to know sabato better I can see a few things…

The people that picked him have no taste and are easily impressed. That bellatini girl. I dont know what about YSLs “success” made them promote her. Vaccarello coasted off duping Hedi for a decade.

Sabato - to the untrained eye - appears to be a Lagerfeldian decision-maker. Those color gradients with the color code actually written is kind of Lagerfeld-ish though I think Karl wouldn’t waste his time actually providing the color codes for paint. Fundamentally changing it from some weird precision obsession to a feeling and a mood.

Whomever is observing sabato confuses his fussiness with precision. They think he’s a Hedi like dicta

Bellettini disliked the sexless YSL by Hedi. She thought YSL women were sl*tty bourgeoises, and I kinda agree, so she picked Anthony.

 

[FashionPower]

what do you expect whe the new commucations

lolz fits with the new cheap level of people like Davide Buzzoni ...Gucci´s new global communications director form loro piana half naked with nothing but a tiny underwear on raya app with his new job title included on his bio ......it all makes sense #lifestylegoals making Jacquemus look intelectual chic at this point

it just so bad its not even funny any. more

#TEA
Aiming at Stefano Cantino's profile on Raya? LOL

 

[FashionPower]

Bellettini disliked the sexless YSL by Hedi. She thought YSL women were sl*tty bourgeoises, and I kinda agree, so she picked Anthony.

YSL was never a rock groupie like the vision Hedi portrayed during his tenure.
Vaccarello's offering is much more on par with the OG YSL, however after the pandemic his vision became less and less interesting, basic and extremely product oriented to boost ready to wear sales. The aesthetic might be pleasing to see on the runway, but it's not relatable to the general public. It's been 3 years now with runway shows featuring one / two specific outfits looped for 60 looks with slight deviations in colors / materials.
The worst Vaccarello era was between the Fall 2022 and the Spring 2023 shows with the SKIMS bodycon jersey stretch dresses paired with either leather or winter coats.

 

[Kimihiro]

Hedi tried “what would YSL do now if he’s transgressive and *twink-obsessed” and it worked, even if I think it’s his worst output for a maison.

Anyways, Gucci always soared when it was fashion, not when it’s essentials and like a department store like what they’re doing right now.

 

[LadyJunon]

The magic of Hedi's YSL is very much like Decarnin's Balmain: a marriage of scandalous novelty and meticulous merchandising with a punctuation of exquisite craftsmanship. The issue is that once that magic wears off, all that's left are well-made costumes for a female love-interest archetype that isn't very aspirational.

Belletini could've easily continued Hedi's vintage groupie look with a Kris Van Assche type, but decided for a designer who could shift the woman into a more self-serving feminine lens and have the man happily existing on autopilot for 5 or so years.

I think that Celine must've been a huge learning curve in terms of Hedi having to adjust his vision to directly target a female demographic using appeal and aspirations instead of pure scandal. The lens of SS19 and the lens of SS25 are completely different.

 

[PDFSD]

#TEA
Aiming at Stefano Cantino's profile on Raya? LOL

lol lots of work while they see each other at they office any....speaking of stefano most recent sentiment is that he will get rid of ancora guy so lets see in 2025

 

[FashionPower]

lol lots of work while they see each other at they office any....speaking of stefano most recent sentiment is that he will get rid of ancora guy so lets see in 2025

"CIAO FABIO, BENVENUTO IN GUCCI!" in 3, 2, 1...

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

I think that Celine must've been a huge learning curve in terms of Hedi having to adjust his vision to directly target a female demographic using appeal and aspirations instead of pure scandal. The lens of SS19 and the lens of SS25 are completely different.

Absolutely.
You remeber all the backlash he got, for betraying Phoebe's legacy when he started at Celine?

In my opinion, the shift happened with FW19, the collection with the culottes and the knee boots, the pleated skirts...
It felt like, for the first time in his carreer, he had listened to some sort of feedback.