Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[imjustken]

I almost forgot the Jackie was named after Jackie Kennedy. Really tells you something about their elevation strategy that they don't even harness their history.

 

[FashionPower]

I Wonder Who is in charge of celebs and VIP design under Sabato cause this look on Loli has TOM FORD x VALENTINO by Piccioli all over it:
- Tom Ford iconic velvet suit
- Valentino by Piccoli feather trims on sleeves

The only items that make it slightly remind of Gucci are the bamboo accessories and that hideous bottom leg slit on the pants that we already saw on the runway back in September.

 

[Xone]

I Wonder Who is in charge of celebs and VIP design under Sabato cause this look on Loli has TOM FORD x VALENTINO by Piccioli all over it:
- Tom Ford iconic velvet suit
- Valentino by Piccoli feather trims on sleeves

The only items that make it slightly remind of Gucci are the bamboo accessories and that hideous bottom leg slit on the pants that we already saw on the runway back in September.

View attachment 1323820

why that neck accessorie...
and the fit looks kinda off...but maybe it was just the picture...

 

[PDFSD]

I almost forgot the Jackie was named after Jackie Kennedy. Really tells you something about their elevation strategy that they don't even harness their history.

most likely because the jackie kennedy family dont want her name to be used for commercial reasons.

also the first hobo she worn prior to some gucci version was Hermes Trim bag often misquoted/credited as a Gucci jackie

The Hermès Trim predates the Gucci G1233 ( Jackie ) bag

HERMES TRIM bag



GUCCI JACKIE

 

[imjustken]

GUCCI JACKIE
View attachment 1323824

I like those pictures. They recreate them in a way with celebrities but when I look at what they're doing, I don't get a sense of history, heritage or legacy.

 

[carla56]

I Wonder Who is in charge of celebs and VIP design under Sabato cause this look on Loli has TOM FORD x VALENTINO by Piccioli all over it:
- Tom Ford iconic velvet suit
- Valentino by Piccoli feather trims on sleeves

The only items that make it slightly remind of Gucci are the bamboo accessories and that hideous bottom leg slit on the pants that we already saw on the runway back in September.

View attachment 1323820

It’s Ludovico Milani, former dolce & gabbana altamoda designer, he’s at gucci since 2018 and now head designer for celebrities

 

[PDFSD]

fun fact : Jackie Kennedy's Summer Estate in the Hamptons was bought by Tom Ford for $52million

 

[yslforever]

It’s Ludovico Milani, former dolce & gabbana altamoda designer, he’s at gucci since 2018 and now head designer for celebrities

Thanks, just a question : then who designed that Notte collection? Milani or Ancora ?
Ancora designs the eveningwear for the models at the Lacma event and Milani adapts to the actors. Am I right ?
Anyway, it was pedestrian at best, I am sure there are better choices at Alberta Ferretti.

 

[reese06]

I Wonder Who is in charge of celebs and VIP design under Sabato cause this look on Loli has TOM FORD x VALENTINO by Piccioli all over it:
- Tom Ford iconic velvet suit
- Valentino by Piccoli feather trims on sleeves

The only items that make it slightly remind of Gucci are the bamboo accessories and that hideous bottom leg slit on the pants that we already saw on the runway back in September.

Please don’t let your dislike of Sabato cloud your judgement by attributing any sort of signature to PPP.

Anyways, I wish the pants on this were more streamlined, this would have been sexy and glam.

 

[Lola701]

most likely because the jackie kennedy family dont want her name to be used for commercial reasons.

also the first hobo she worn prior to some gucci version was Hermes Trim bag often misquoted/credited as a Gucci jackie

The Hermès Trim predates the Gucci G1233 ( Jackie ) bag

HERMES TRIM bag
View attachment 1323823


GUCCI JACKIE
View attachment 1323824

Thinking of Gucci FW2000.
That’s maybe the real direction they should follow if they are trying to tap into heritage with a fashion POV.

 

[PDFSD]

Thinking of Gucci FW2000.
That’s maybe the real direction they should follow if they are trying to tap into heritage with a fashion POV.

and FW1996 Gucci updated sleek sharp sexy glamour modern fashion heydays heritage with a dose of modern day effortless casual , real travel luggage offer lux materials and upgrade production of leather goods streamline designs make clear sharp sexy practical lux things.

be the sexy streamlined LV celebrate the italian flair like LV is to paris france, establish your house codes and be disciplined about them and not mixed up on everything web gg and logo all on one product like now...etc etc

establish house codes and creative directors are guests and don't let them destroy and rebuild the brand in there image it's the other way around the have to step into the house and provide a twist but never a mirror image of their own personality on store design etc be more institutional as a 100 plus year old company with a heritage with long term plans for next 100 year.

etc etc

 

[Lola701]

and FW1996 Gucci updated sleek sharp sexy glamour modern fashion heydays heritage with a dose of modern day effortless casual , real travel luggage offer lux materials and upgrade production of leather goods streamline designs make clear sharp sexy practical lux things.

be the sexy streamlined LV celebrate the italian flair like LV is to paris france, establish your house codes and be disciplined about them and not mixed up on everything web gg and logo all on one product like now...etc etc

establish house codes and creative directors are guests and don't let them destroy and rebuild the brand in there image it's the other way around the have to step into the house and provide a twist but never a mirror image of their own personality on store design etc be more institutional as a 100 plus year old company with a heritage with long term plans for next 100 year.

etc etc

I would say that FW1996 is a good mood rather than a good base design-wise to take Gucci to.
I can get the FW1996 look by going to Max Mara and in a way, Gucci has lost that impact on fashion to have meaningful voice in that kind of minimalism.

Frida’s FW2014 was based on FW1995 for example. But the silhouettes were very FW2000.

However, FW2000 feels very Italian. The colors are very Gucci. The allure is sexy and comfortable and it can tie together the work of all the CD of Gucci.

The problem with the brand is that inevitably, they are going to experience another overhaul change

Everytime I see those Ancora shopping bags, I cannot help myself and think about how they don’t look timeless at all.
They should think about the brand beyond fashion. Nobody cares about Ancora Notte. It will be worn by Ambassadors anyway. They needs to check their priorities.

 

[FashionPower]

Thanks, just a question : then who designed that Notte collection? Milani or Ancora ?
Ancora designs the eveningwear for the models at the Lacma event and Milani adapts to the actors. Am I right ?
Anyway, it was pedestrian at best, I am sure there are better choices at Alberta Ferretti.

I honestly don't think Ancora designs anything in the conventional meaning of "designing", if he's working a la Raf Simons, Miuccia or even Frida, he then just provides the team inspiration and visions he would like to deliver and then validate the proposals from the design team based on his own personal taste to get the offerings aligned to his visions

 

[tricotineacetat]

Creativity doesn’t mean anything without a strategy. That’s why for example you have someone like Olivier T. Who expressed great creativity at Rochas and Nina Rocco without results.

You probably counted on it by now but I will correct you on the fact that Rochas did not close it’s fashion operations under Olivier Theyskens due to dissatisfying performance, but the fact that the house was acquired along with it’s perfume rights by Procter & Gamble as part of a merge with German cosmetics group Wella. Rochas represented only but a tiny piece in that acquisition and since P & G had no expertise in the world of fashion, they decided to close the fashion branch and keep with the perfume rights.

In hindsight, what can be said is that Olivier spent 3 years with a house that was brought back from zero - Similar to Schiaparelli and Vionnet. Rochas was performing well for a brand that could not rely on the financial backing of a big conglomerate and was similar in size to Balenciaga around 2002, when Gucci group had just acquired it. I would consider that a decent job from Olivier’s side, the clothes were selling and a leather goods and shoes range was gaining traction around 2005.

A lot of press coverage around Rochas' closure unfairly painted the picture of a designer whose only concern was to create evening dresses deemed to expensive to market, therefor leading to the closure of the house. The truth is that nearly all of the floor sweeping looks were produced in knee length versions that customers bought and were part of a range that was steadily diversifying and steadily expanding in stockists.

 

[Lola701]

You probably counted on it by now but I will correct you on the fact that Rochas did not close it’s fashion operations under Olivier Theyskens due to dissatisfying performance, but the fact that the house was acquired along with it’s perfume rights by Procter & Gamble as part of a merge with German cosmetics group Wella. Rochas represented only but a tiny piece in that acquisition and since P & G had no expertise in the world of fashion, they decided to close the fashion branch and keep with the perfume rights.

In hindsight, what can be said is that Olivier spent 3 years with a house that was brought back from zero - Similar to Schiaparelli and Vionnet. Rochas was performing well for a brand that could not rely on the financial backing of a big conglomerate and was similar in size to Balenciaga around 2002, when Gucci group had just acquired it. I would consider that a decent job from Olivier’s side, the clothes were selling and a leather goods and shoes range was gaining traction around 2005.

A lot of press coverage around Rochas' closure unfairly painted the picture of a designer whose only concern was to create evening dresses deemed to expensive to market, therefor leading to the closure of the house. The truth is that nearly all of the floor sweeping looks were produced in knee length versions that customers bought and were part of a range that was steadily diversifying and steadily expanding in stockists.

But they closed because they had no strategy for the house. Still to this day, there’s no strategy. The same can be said about Nina Ricci and others.
Even if you decides that the clothes will generate publicity for the perfumes, it is a strategy. This has been the strategy at Gaultier for years.

For me, lack of expertise = lack of strategy.

And i say that because it means that you don’t see a way to generate money from that.

I would never blame Olivier for what happened at Rochas and Nina Ricci. I think he made bad choices (Theory) and wasn’t lucky (Nina Ricci & Rochas).

The same for Rodolfo Pagliangula! I loved his Vionnet! Absolutely loved it. They had no strategy to support his work. It became a mess, they changed owners and it became even more of a mess.

We have so many stories like that with brands changing owners and owners who have no strategy at all. Instead of keeping the creative team, they change everything and it becomes even more of a mess: Cavalli, Lanvin…etc.

 

[PDFSD]

I would say that FW1996 is a good mood rather than a good base design-wise to take Gucci to.
I can get the FW1996 look by going to Max Mara and in a way, Gucci has lost that impact on fashion to have meaningful voice in that kind of minimalism.

Frida’s FW2014 was based on FW1995 for example. But the silhouettes were very FW2000.

However, FW2000 feels very Italian. The colors are very Gucci. The allure is sexy and comfortable and it can tie together the work of all the CD of Gucci.

The problem with the brand is that inevitably, they are going to experience another overhaul change

Everytime I see those Ancora shopping bags, I cannot help myself and think about how they don’t look timeless at all.
They should think about the brand beyond fashion. Nobody cares about Ancora Notte. It will be worn by Ambassadors anyway. They needs to check their priorities.

of course all in mood as in total vibe check :-)

even if:

FW 96 is 70´s day wear sleek verry Gucci and Fw 2000 is 60´s mod Oleg Cassini ( friend and stylist ) to Jackie Kennedy

for me both 70´s and 60´s are top years of gucci That tom and Frida and Alessandro went back and forth on i think you need both the 70´s sleek sexy jet set spirit and the classy grown up relaxed spirit of the 60´s ( dress the mistress and the wive but not the same )

agree as much as Ancora aims to be a modern timeless it all feel down to the shopping back very ephemeral/obsolete contemporary junk.

agree no priorities no fashion authority left at the brand just size , i wished it was runned by LVMH lol

 

[Lola701]

agree no priorities no fashion authority left at the brand just size , i wished it was runned by LVMH lol

I would actually love to hear Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole opinion on what happened at Gucci and the then-Guccu Group post their departure.
They decided to sign with Pinault instead of Arnault. They created the group with a very defined vision and structure for each house.

Pinault never followed their strategy and never had a strategy to start with.

So I wonder, even if the Tom Ford brand made them richer than before, if they thinks Arnault would have done a better job.

 

[plentyofhorns]

most likely because the jackie kennedy family dont want her name to be used for commercial reasons.

also the first hobo she worn prior to some gucci version was Hermes Trim bag often misquoted/credited as a Gucci jackie

The Hermès Trim predates the Gucci G1233 ( Jackie ) bag

HERMES TRIM bag
View attachment 1323823


GUCCI JACKIE
View attachment 1323824

Omg that’s the first time I’ve seen a Jackie look good

 

[plentyofhorns]

I honestly don't think Ancora designs anything in the conventional meaning of "designing", if he's working a la Raf Simons, Miuccia or even Frida, he then just provides the team inspiration and visions he would like to deliver and then validate the proposals from the design team based on his own personal taste to get the offerings aligned to his visions

I love that we just call him Ancora now