Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

Ancora guy gave an interview for the latest HB right? what embarrasing things he said this time? lol
 
Gucci's going co-ed starting from February:
Gucci to Hold Unified Show in Milan in February
Creative director Sabato De Sarno will present the brand’s men’s and women’s collections together in a single fashion show also in September as part of the Milan Fashion Week calendar.

By Luisa Zargani
November 19, 2024, 12:01am

MILAN
— Gucci is returning to the coed format for its shows or, as the company prefers to describe it, a “unified” version.

Creative director Sabato De Sarno will present the brand’s men’s and women’s collections together in a single fashion show in February and September, respectively, as part of the Milan Fashion Week calendar.

In addition, as reported, Gucci will hold the cruise 2026 fashion show in Florence on May 15, also coed.

In a statement, Gucci said that this will allow De Sarno to present his “sleek, thoughtful and cohesive storyline” for the brand, “fostering a dialogue between complementary men’s and women’s collections,” and “a continuous conversation between these two worlds. Each collection reflects and responds to the other, maintaining its individuality while contributing to a multifaceted narrative in which femininity and masculinity coexist, enrich and elevate one another.”


De Sarno’s first show bowed for women’s in Milan in September 2023, after he was named to the leading design role in January that year. In January and June 2024, he presented his menswear collections for the brand, and last May, a women’s cruise 2025 show in London’s Tate Modern Tanks with guests including Dua Lipa, Demi Moore, Paul Mescal, and Kate and Lila Moss.

The luxury house has experimented with different formats over the past few years, opting for the coed format in 2017 under former creative director Alessandro Michele and then reverting to separate showcases, uncoupling men’s and women’s collections, starting with the former in January 2023.

This is the latest change revealed by Gucci, which is going through several transformations under the lead of Stefano Cantino, deputy chief executive officer, who will take over as CEO on Jan. 1, succeeding Jean-François Palus. As reported, as part of Gucci‘s turnaround, Cantino is developing new teams in key areas, looking at streamlining operations and sharpening the decision-making process.

At the end of December, Valérie Leberichel will join Gucci as senior vice president of global communications from Givenchy, reporting directly to Cantino. Reporting to Leberichel will be the existing PR and communications, events and special projects, entertainment industry relations, and art buying teams, along with the newly established vice president of digital marketing and media. That position will be filled by Marcello Mastrogiacomo, who is joining Gucci on Nov. 25 from Armani Beauty Global. Hailing from Valentino, Daniela Raganato was named global media director earlier this month.
WWD
 
And according to the newsletter, the September show will also be co-ed and created by Sabato. So he will be stick around for at least another 6 months? I just wonder why…
 
And according to the newsletter, the September show will also be co-ed and created by Sabato. So he will be stick around for at least another 6 months? I just wonder why…
No, no and no.
Don't jump into conclusions, only because they released a statement for next shows it does not mean he's going to stay.
They would have done it regardless of Sabato's presence just to cut costs (Cantino is a bit stingy at the moment with all the new six figures salaries figures recently introduced in the company).
Gucci menswear does not generate any kind of buzz or sales whatsoever, apart from the tacky logo drug dealer / ghetto stuff that doesn't need to be shown on the runway.
At the moment Sabato is surely safe until the February 2025 show, however it is highly probable he will be dumped shortly after that if Cantino finally decides he's not the right fit for the brand. Of course the run for the successor will be funny to witness.
 
Seeng how this year is going, I'm not suprised they're cutting costs with co-ed shows. Assuming that Q4 falls in line with the rest of the year, I predict that Gucci will make around €7bn-€8bn in 2024. That's a drop in revenue of at least €2bn and I've seen heads roll for less.
2024
2023
Q1
2.08​
2.61​
Q2
2.01​
2.51​
Q3
1.64​
2.22​
Total (9M)
5.53
7.34
Q4
-​
2.53​
Total (12M)
-
9.87

Also, designer menswear has always been more of a worldbuilding formality rather than an actual business and Gucci isn't really an expection to that. The menswear market grew by a lot in the last decade (the 2nd coming of Hedi, followed by the streetwear craze), but outside of the brief honeymoon period with Michele, menswear has never really generated much in terms of buzz or sales outside of logoed products.

As for Sabato, his appointement was announced in January 2023, but because of his duties at Valentino, he started in May. Assuming that Sabato has a standard 3-year contract, it should end in May 2026, meaning that his last show should be Cruise 2027. Of course, they can always call it quits before then and I wouldn't be suprised if they do.
 
And according to the newsletter, the September show will also be co-ed and created by Sabato. So he will be stick around for at least another 6 months? I just wonder why…
Most likely because they haven't found his replacement yet, are still negotiating with a successor or they are waiting for his replacement sitting out a non-compete. At this point immediately firing him and let 'the team' design the next collection (as happened after AM) would send even more signals of cluelessness and a state of crisis to Kering shareholders. There's no way they want to keep Sabato around just for the sake of him sitting out his contract...so one would hope they have a plan and something in the works!
Until then, the co-ed show is just another way of cutting corners..
 
Guys, come on, it's the holiday season, what can you expect from these brands, apart from them trying to cater to the widest demographic and cash more coins? Every brands pushes monograms and entry level "aspirational" items during Christmas. Take a look at the LV gift section in the website...you can't find A SINGLE non monogrammed bag...it's all about monogram small leather (canvas) goods, speedy, neverfull, perfumes, beanies and suglasses. They have a good range of non monogram bags like the Capucine, the GO-14 and all the slim / side trunks iterations, but they are too damn expensive to be included in a mass oriented campaign.
Funnily enough, last year's Gucci gift campaign featured much less logo compared to the current one, clear sign that Sabato had more influence in terms of products selection.
 

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