Style.com Top Ten Collections Spring 2011

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by GivenchyHomme, Oct 15, 2010.

  1. GivenchyHomme

    GivenchyHomme Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] Alexander McQueen
    Sarah Burton's McQueen show was the ticket of the season. Would she do justice to her mentor's extraordinary legacy? Could she demonstrate her own point of view? Yes and yes. With its tail coats, bum-sters, and molded butterfly-wing dresses, this collection was unmistakably McQueen, but softer, warmer, and ultimately, perhaps, friendlier to retailers. And the craftsmanship would have stood out even without the backstory. By the end, half the crowd was tearing up, and the other was on its feet cheering a daunting job very well done.


    [​IMG] Chanel
    Don't underestimate the power of spectacle in fashion. Karl Lagerfeld doesn't. Three fountains, an 80-piece orchestra, a tot in bouclé tweed—for feel-great moments, nothing came close to this Grand Palais epic. But it wasn't all pomp and circumstance. Lagerfeld reconsidered Coco's codes for today, turning out skirtsuits riddled with holes and distressing the edges of perfectly pretty frocks for a couture-come-undone feel. That is, until he got to the glorious eveningwear, which was plenty haute—just the way his front-row pal Keira Knightley likes it.



    [​IMG] Christopher Kane
    Kane was fresh out of school when he ushered in the short-and-sexy look that's dominated fashion for the last three years, but he's moved on for Spring. Channeling "Princess Margaret on acid," he put twinsets and below-the-knee skirts on the runway—only those sweaters came in yakuza tattoo prints, and the skirts in neon laminated leather lace. Strange? You bet. But strangely alluring, too—especially when viewed up close. What's so seductive about Kane is how singular his vision is, and how deeply he believes in it.



    [​IMG] Emilio Pucci
    Why do all the A-listers and party girls love Peter Dundas? It's a no-brainer, really: Nobody, but nobody does sexy like he does these days. Leave the tortured-designer pose to others: With his own vacation house in the Cyclades as a starting point, Dundas built a sultry, summery collection of slit-up-to-there gowns, whipstitched leather flares, and tie-dyed tees, not to mention the hottest lace-up boots of the season. Emilio Pucci built his brand on jet-set Capri, but Greece is the word for Spring.



    [​IMG] Haider Ackermann
    It used to be that every show ended with gowns, but designers' interest in black-tie dressing has shrunk along with the economy. That's partially why Haider Ackermann's show was such a revelation: finally, a modern—and unflinchingly daring—way to do evening. There will be no going unnoticed in this crimson silk bustier with its trailing scarf and slouched-on black pants. The Ackermann faithful, meanwhile, were no doubt pleased to see his signature black leather twisted and tailored into some of the most covetable jackets around.



    [​IMG] Jil Sander
    Incandescent color. The new, ankle-grazing length. Raf Simons distilled Milan's key trends, while simultaneously producing a collection that rated that overused term: directional. The trick was in the way Simons used the bold volumes of haute couture but grounded them in reality (the major ball skirts paired with simple white tees, the sporty parka over a floral-print infanta dress). It was as thrillingly maximal as a minimalist can get.



    [​IMG] Lanvin
    Alber Elbaz may be more concerned than most designers with addressing women's needs, but that doesn't explain how he is able to turn something objectively simple into another thing that's utterly, irresistibly chic. This season, he worked his magic via breezy, leg-baring pleated skirts with leotard-tight tops, acid-bright pops of color, and tropical silk print sari dresses and pajama pants accented with butterfly brooches. And don't forget those gorgeous, easy-on-the-feet flat sandals—ah, yes, women's needs.



    [​IMG] Marc Jacobs
    The "explainers" were out of a job this season. There were few esoteric references for the self-appointed sages to dissect for the rest of us. Instead, this was an unapologetic embrace of the seventies, and even after a month of shows—many of them exploring the same era—the feel-good vibe of those orchid chokers and glittering platform sandals still sticks in the memory. If you're looking for something to wear nightclubbing next spring, Jacobs is your man.



    [​IMG] Prada
    If any collection signaled the end of minimalism's brief reign, it was Prada, where electric colors mingled with monkey and banana prints and Josephine Baker-esque embroideries. But along with that much-needed dose of fun, there was plenty here to wear. Those summery spaghetti-strap frocks near the end were cut from sturdy black cotton.



    [​IMG] Proenza Schouler
    It seems to take eons for up-and-comers to shed the "young designer" label, but Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough officially did just that with their most sophisticated collection to date. Yes, there were Chanel-like tweed jackets, but this wasn't a ladylike outing, per se. What it was, among other things, was an embrace of craft, from the shibori-technique pastel skirts to the neon guipure lace slipdresses. Call it solid proof that hard work pays dividends.


    style.com
     
    #1 GivenchyHomme, Oct 15, 2010
    Last edited by moderator Jill69: Oct 15, 2010
  2. Flashbang

    Flashbang Mr. Magic

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    This might be the first time I agree with this list. Although Rodarte, YSL, and Mary Katrantzou are another highlight for me.
     
  3. hautechild

    hautechild New Member

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    Surprisingly not bad choices, usually I'm all :blink: at half of their list, I think a lot of these were in tFSers top shows. Nice to see Haider Ackermann on there!
     
  4. mikeijames

    mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

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    for once, i kind of wholeheartedly agree. i'd probably substitute a jonathan saunders or prabal gurung for emilio pucci, but i understand why pucci's on the list.
     
  5. Tentacl Ventricl

    Tentacl Ventricl New Member

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    One wonders who these 'self-appointed sages' that receive a sideways swipe in the text in the Marc Jacobs summary might be?

    Surely someone somewhere on the interwebs? Bloggers? Or have the people at Conde Nast been dipping into the tfs designers and collections forums?

    Personally I'd much rather read the 'explainers' (like Mike etc, etc) than the vacuous, factitious, say-what-you-see, personal shopping based subjectivity served up by most of the Conde Nast appointed so called fashion journalists. For instance their attempt to disseminate an understanding of Chalayan's collection was laughable - analogous to a seven year old schoolgirl attempting to advance an understanding of Proust or Zizek. Or something.

    Most seasons we complain that the Style.com top ten is meaningless, the compiler's hands tied by the politics of magazine advertising spend. That's still there but perhaps less so. And if this season we're receiving their top ten a little better perhaps it's no accident - dear forum contributers your collective reception of the shows has, in part, influenced it? Maybe.
     
  6. john2elmejor

    john2elmejor Active Member

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    I agree, especially with Haider, Chanel & Proenza
     
  7. Marc10

    Marc10 Moderator

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    Overall is a good list, although i'm surprise to see Christopher Kane and no Balenciaga.
     
  8. gossiping

    gossiping Well-Known Member

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    really glad pucci is in there
     
  9. Wolkfolk

    Wolkfolk When in doubt, wear red.

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    Its the first time , that I almost totally agree with them. Still I would've replaced Jil Sander or Marc Jacobs by Galliano.
     
  10. Empress Merel

    Empress Merel Active Member

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    For the first time I agree on them. Finally Haider get's some recognition after they bluntly out ignored his breathtaking F/W collection.
     
  11. TaylorBinque

    TaylorBinque Well-Known Member

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    At least I do not disagree with the list. I actually like the list, for once.
     
  12. LolaSvelt

    LolaSvelt New Member

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    Yes, it's a good list. Usually they just put Balenciaga on the list for the hell of it. Haider Ackermann was one of my favourites this season.
     
  13. FashionPower

    FashionPower Active Member

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    No Balenciaga? :shock: You MUST be kidding me!! :lol: :lol:
    Anyway it's the typical style.com/Anna W. bunch of favorite designers:Miuccia,Lanvin,Marc :huh:
    YAY for Pucci! :woot: :buzz:
     
  14. apriliciate

    apriliciate New Member

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    oh please.. chanel was so terible for this season! but heyyy lanvin!!! supposed to be number 2 after mcqueen :smile:
     
  15. saann

    saann I don't know

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    ^the list isn't in order and I would also remove Chanel from it, didn't like it at all and I would have added either Hermes, Vuitton, Ann D, Rochas or Dries

    Haider was incredible this season
     
  16. get fashion

    get fashion New Member

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    Prada has to be the first!!!
    Love Proenza, but, not this season.
    Christopher Kane, really? love him too, but this summer 2011, no!
    And Louis Vuitton? Gucci with the best season of Giannini???
    Dolce?
    this make me sick.
     
  17. Uemarasan

    Uemarasan Active Member

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    This list is as thought-provoking as the Oscars. Ah well, it is Style.com, after all.

    Props for getting Haider right.
     
    #17 Uemarasan, Oct 15, 2010
    Last edited by moderator design19: Oct 15, 2010
  18. Uemarasan

    Uemarasan Active Member

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    Oh, and there are still a couple more fashion weeks to go... Tokyo, for one.

    By the way, Zizek in the SAME sentence as Proust? Let's have Habermas instead, please :smile:
     
  19. Salvatore

    Salvatore Wanderlust

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    I too agree with this list. Not bad.
     
  20. TianSoFine

    TianSoFine Active Member

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    I think the list is pretty alright this season. I don't completely agree with everything, but there's nothing that makes me go "Why the hell is this here?" except for Marc Jacobs. I'm surprised they don't have Dolce and Gabbana though, which was amazing. I also think Gucci deserved to have made the list, but that's just personal taste, I guess. I completely agree with Chanel, Lanvin, and Alexander McQueen.
     

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