The Plus Size Thread - All are welcome! - #2

[fashionista-ta]

I know that nowadays there are a lot more shops with a plus size range that cater to a younger audience and offer trendier pieces, but some of the stuff I've seen from asos curve and faith 21 in particular are somewhat unflattering and lacking a bit in the support department.

I'm doing some research on the subject and would love to know what's out there and what's lacking esp. when online shopping for plus size clothing

Online shopping for plus size would really need some type of tool like True & Co. has in order to work well.

I'm not plus size but I am curvy and I am quite reluctant to shop online for anything that's not a bag, that I will actually wear on my body, unless I have tried the item on, or already own it or something very similar from the same label/designer. I feel this way about shoes as well.

Plus size women tend to have a lot more variation in shape at the same size than you see in a smaller size.

The upside is that some plus size women want to try things on at home, so that motivates online shopping ... but I would imagine the return rate is quite high.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Just wanted to note that there is a plus-size petition on change.org right now. It says that Old Navy has women's (but not men's) plus-size clothing segregated, and also has an upcharge for women's plus-size jeans, while the large men's sizes cost the same. I agree that this seems like unequal treatment. What do you think?

 

[eizhowa]

I think all plus size garments should cost extra. They all use extra material. When I buy mens sweaters from uniqlo, I accept that I need to pay more, because I am physically getting more for my money. I am not sure why they would charge plus sized women more than men. It doesn't seem to make sense.

I would assume that they started turning up the prices of womens clothing, because women shop more. It would be the fastest way to increase the profit. Following this train of thought, plus size menswear should see a upcharge soon... Not sure if it is in the card though. This argument will quickly lose its value with time...

Maybe prices for menswear was higher to begin with, so increasing prices was not necessary to the same degree? I can't say I have noticed any price difference between mens and womens high street clothing...

I feel like I need a lot more information... Do you have a link?

 

[fashionista-ta]

https://www.change.org/p/gap-inc-stop-up-charging-for-women-s-plus-sized-clothing

I think charging more for larger-sized clothing does make sense; but why not treat men equally?

 

[eizhowa]

Maybe "up-charging" is a financial term I do not understand, but isn't a petition called "Stop up-charging for women's plus-sized clothing" a bit misleading? It suggests that the retailer should charge the same for all sizes of womens clothing. I tend to get hung up on stuff like this

I think there is a lot of discrimination in the fashion industry in general, not just when it comes to plus sizes... Some of it has to do with old gender expectations, I am sure.

 

[fashionista-ta]

That is exactly what she is asking for--that plus size women be charged the same as plus size men.

 

[eizhowa]

I read it more thoroughly now. So the issue is not that men are paying less across the board, it is that all men and non-plus sized women are paying less. Aha...

I agree that men should pay the same when buying the (almost) same, but I don't think it is discrimination to charge more for more fabric. That is not what discrimination means... This is assuming that the cost of the material is noteworthy. If the mark up is huge, then charging twice the price for plus size is insane.

I think it would be more realistic to ask Old Navy to charge both sexes the same, than to expect them to charge less in total I would sign that petiton

I do think the price increase should be more progressive though. There shouldn't just be two categories of women.

 

[3RingCircus]

I have seen a posting online somewhere (can't recall where but will link if I come across it again) in which a pattern maker explained the higher ratio of fabric wastage that comes from larger sizes. It is pretty much a case of customers playing more for what can't be used, rather than the garment being larger and needing more fabric.

 

[eizhowa]

I have been thinking, and you are not only paying for more material used and wasted, but of course it will take longer to sew a large piece of clothing, so thats an additional cost as well.

I don't think the production companies care too much about trying to optimize the amount of fabric used, though, because I believe the mark up is so big anyway... And if a worker makes nothing to start with, the companies won't care if they pay 2 x nothing

 

[fashionista-ta]

I have seen a posting online somewhere (can't recall where but will link if I come across it again) in which a pattern maker explained the higher ratio of fabric wastage that comes from larger sizes. It is pretty much a case of customers playing more for what can't be used, rather than the garment being larger and needing more fabric.

Thank you, that would be very interesting.

I would think there would also be additional R&D costs associated with designing plus-size clothing, although I am not an expert. As you get further away from skin-and-bones/clothes hanger shapes, there's more variation in shapes, and more skill (I think) needed in order for things to fit and flatter. Most labels/designers make a choice about how their things are going to fit ... but I do really appreciate those who think about how things will be worn by many different types of women.

A lot of women loved the fit of L'Wren Scott, for example ... but putting on one of her skirts, with a waist completely at odds with mine, was actually painful.

 

[3RingCircus]

I'm not sure there is any true innovation in plus size clothing - yet. The shapes and cuts on the racks at the moment are hardly new; the difference is that they are now seen as acceptable on larger bodies thanks to bloggers, Crystal Renn's entire career at a size 12/14, and editorials in the groundbreaking V Magazine Size issue and the various Elle magazine special curve issues. But let's remember - those weren't plus size garment the girls were wearing in any of those photos. No no no. No Marina Rinaldi in that lot unless it was an ad for the company! How is any plus size designer supposed to aspire to create something really wonderful if magazines will always reject them because 'our readers aren't fat and if they are, here's a diet they should be on' ?

I have to say, I am really happy with my body when I'm naked, but the lack of larger sized options that match my personal style is endlessly frustrating, which ultimately comes back to size anxiety because there's nothing for me on the racks. It's quite the Catch 22.

So I ask - what brand would you buy in a heartbeat, no matter the cost, if they offered your size and were an exact match for your style? Let's play Fashion Fantasy!

Right now, mine is Gucci (am dead for pastel leathers and blue python boots right now). The Fall RTW 2014 colour palette is everything.

 

[3RingCircus]

I have seen a posting online somewhere (can't recall where but will link if I come across it again) in which a pattern maker explained the higher ratio of fabric wastage that comes from larger sizes. It is pretty much a case of customers paying more for what can't be used, rather than the garment being larger and needing more fabric.

Thank you, that would be very interesting.

Fashionista-ta -
Thank you for asking me to go search for this article - this website had a lot of great reading on it for me and I had not even realized I'd lost the link to it!

The question of why plus size clothing costs more is broken down very well in this response, I think. I wish that more companies would take the time to explain it rather than simply say it costs more, or we put more money into R&D (which is simply not true) because that reinforces 'otherness' of larger sizes and still has a tinge of stigma to it.

Did you ever wonder... a size 2 is still the same price as a 14 in their regular lines but it's six sizes bigger....things that make you go hmmmmmmmmmmm

http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-larger-sizes-cost-more-or-size-is-nothing-but-a-number/

 

[3RingCircus]

You might all be interested to read this one as well - the comments are also a good read

There's no such thing as 'Vanity Sizing'

 

[eizhowa]

^Very interesting. Thank you for posting the link

 

[fashionista-ta]

Thanks for the link. That's really interesting, including the comments.

Here's another article from the same blog about the difficulties of an existing line adding plus sizes: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/why-existing-manufacturers-dont-add-plus-sizes/

 

[frk-frost]

*blows dust of this thread*

Does anyone have any experience with Violetta by Mango? I just got my first buys from them: a cardigan and a part of pants and the sizes confuse me a bit I also wonder how the sizes in the Violetta range compare to those in the ordinary Mango range - if anyone knows anything, I'd love to hear

 

[fashionista-ta]

Beth Ditto's first collection is now available ... at Luisaviaroma for one.

 

[decadentdiamond]

I've been a full-time Designer in the Fashion Industry for almost 10 years, and recently handed in my notice to go freelance.
However, I saw an opening for a Plus-Size designer role, and after meeting the team and hearing their ideas for the brand, I felt really excited about Fashion again... a new market, a new 'girl' to design for. Very excited to start this new job!

I've read through a ton of the comments on this thread and the first one, and I couldn't believe how limited the choices were for plus-size clothing.

My best friend has always been plus-size and when I was doing research for a project for this job role, I asked her what she looked for the most... her reply was so simple.. "I want the same stuff you wear but for my size"

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Good luck in your new job!

IMO, as someone who isn't plus size but could often use a more generous cut in the size I am, I think it's not quite that simple. (I think I've mentioned this point in this thread before.) The further you get from a 'coat hanger,' the more variation there is in body shape.

Some women are busty, some are not. Some want to emphasize their waists, and some do not. Some women have a round rear, others flat. You have your pears, you have your apples, you have your rectangles ... and when you get to plus size, these differences just matter much more, especially if you want the clothes to be flattering.

Often a line caters to just one body type, but I tremendously admired Alber Elbaz's Lanvin for having something for everyone. It meant that I couldn't wear everything in the line, but neither could my opposite ... and there was always something for both of us.