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Valentino is a house still transitioning from the imposing aura of its legendary founder. On the creative front, that has created no small level of high-profile upheaval: The will-he/won’t-he retire chatter that followed Valentino for months prior to his grandiose 40th anniversary celebration; his ultimate retirement; the brief tenure of Alessandra Facchinetti; her abrupt dismissal, followed by the installation of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli at the house’s design helm.
The two accepted the appointment with the hefty mandate to be true to the spirit of Valentino while pushing the house forward, which typically means attracting a younger audience, but in this case, not repeating the mistakes of Facchinetti, whatever those might have been. Most importantly, the pair would have to negotiate the sizable leap from accessories maestros to full-on major-house fashion designers, and debut their learning process during the haute couture, no less.
That baptism proved rocky, with a far-too reverential debut. For the ready-to-wear collection Chiuri and Piccioli showed on Tuesday, they determined not to repeat the same mistake, offering the first glimmer of their own stylistic identity. First hint: a fresher beauty look for their models — hair, down and pretty, makeup on the light side — an air transferred to the clothes, in which they took the renowned Valentino glamour quotient down a notch or two. The designers opened with group of polite dresses in emerald green, red and acid yellow interspersed with black. Though unfettered, these were interestingly cut and seamed, signaling that, lightening up aside, the designers have no intention of going plain. Thus, the swagger of a constructed cape, coats with deep fox cuffs and plenty of surface decoration, whether in a moody nature print or ample crystal embellishment, which for day turned up in a jeweled camel cardigan worn with trousers and a terrific long ombréd mink vest.
Evening featured columns and draped-bodice gowns in shades of turquoise, marigold and wine, along with black. While not showstoppers, these were plenty appealing, the kind of controlled evening looks to which many women relate. It all added up to a necessary step in the right direction.
an air transferred to the clothes, in which they took the renowned Valentino glamour quotient down a notch or two